Leon

I was going to say S2000, but it won't be as comfortable as a BRZ/FRS on that long commute everyday. I commute in my S2000 once or twice a week, a 100mi round trip each time. I've tracked fuel consumption for a year now, and I'm averaging 28mpg overall. The factory hardtop alleviates some wind noise and gives me another inch of headroom. At 6'2", I'm a tight fit in the cabin but I deal with it. Not only is it a great sports car but the reliability is up there with any other Honda. It's what convinced me to get the S instead of an E36 BMW M Coupe, which I'll admit I still drool over! I've driven the FRS and it's a fun yet still comfortable car. I felt like it slotted in nicely between a Miata and S2000 in terms of performance, but was more utilitarian and easier to live with than either one. It seemed like a better compromise for daily-driving when compared to the S (more comfy, but less power and maybe slightly better mpg?).

I believe by lower, he means a numerically higher gear ratio, i.e. >4.11.

Wow... Hi-ho, hi-ho, Off to the shed we go!!!

Nice, looking forward to see if it helps!

That's strange, I can see them on my home and work computers.

I got another Z! This one was a b-day gift from the future inlaws. Back on topic, the Z is naked front and back! I sold the air dam today since I've had a new one sitting in my storage for years. New one will be installed soon, but I'm not in a huge rush since I've sent out the tail light trim to be re-chromed (9teen7t240z runs a nice service for this). Before pics: When removing the tails, I noticed that the left tail light gasket was in pretty bad shape. I've got a new one coming from MSA, and I'm hoping the fume issue gets a little better...

Live and learn!

Yes, but turbo or not, the engine will benefit from wave tuning (and he did specifically ask about resonance effects). I don't think an extra 12-15" of intake length will have a perceptible effect on throttle response.

Good to know about port length, thanks for that info. All I'm saying is that the tuned RPM is a function of more than just runner length. Rules of thumb can be used with varying degrees of success.

You can't say that without assuming some key factors. There is no "one-size-fits-all" with runner lengths, it is dependent upon the application (i.e. cam profile, air temp...). Is the port really 4 inches long? I haven't measured so I don't have an answer but that seems a bit long.

There is no reason to cross-post, so please don't...

FWIW, my Webers idle at 14.5:1, cruise at 13:1 (I will lean this out further) and go to 11-12:1 at WOT (this needs some trimming). I can stomp on it in 1st gear, at 1200rpm and take off without a hitch. I've reached this point by using proper e-tubes (Keith Franck's design), fine-tuning the idle jets (KF's hypojets), and finishing up with the accel circuit. Accel enrichment tuning should be done last, just as if you're tuning EFI. There's a scientific approach to tuning these carbs, jumping from circuit-to-circuit will have you chasing your tail. Take a look at Keith's "White Paper" in the Files section of Sidedraft Central. You'll have to register there first. Although the site is Weber-focused, the approach is the same for any DCOE-like carburetor.

The first harmonic is strongest with the rest following suit. Hitting the 1st harmonic is ideal as far as resonance tuning goes, but it isn't practical (think 5 foot long runners). Shoot for the lowest harmonic that is practically achievable for you. I'm not sure what you mean by "a number comparison between 1st, 2nd, and 3rd wave"? To answer the original question, bends don't affect wave propogation, at least not meaningfully. Bends do increase pumping losses, but a "dry" runner will experience less losses (lower density) and by the sound of it you're using a dry runner (port injection).

Turns out I gave mine away earlier this year! gk already got a refund and is probably still looking for one.

Ok... First off, I don't think anyone was debating what AN stands for. Here is how the AN scheme actually works: the dash number represents the outside diameter of the tubing, not the inside diameter. A -3AN line will have an OD of 3/16". Therefore, the ID will clearly be smaller.

Very nice! FWIW, make sure to disconnect the steering shaft before you try fitting the header in the engine bay.

I've heard cut-down Chevette springs do the trick...

Any and every 2- and 4-stroke intake design works like this. Valve opens, air starts moving, wave propogates away from valve, wave hits end of runner, opposite wave comes back and hits the intake valve just before it closes (at resonance).

Longer runners drop the resonant point lower in the rpm band. With 40degC IAT and 248deg valve duration, a 26" runner will hit the 1st harmonic around 11000RPM, nowhere near 4500RPM! However, the 2nd harmonic will be around 5500RPM and a 3rd harmonic close to 3750RPM. I've written some detailed (probably TOO detailed) responses about intake runner tuning, which can be found in a search: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105783-ideal-intake-runner-taper/

Great thread, TJ! It should be sticky'd. Awesome links, nice photos of the process, and clear explanations of the logic behind it. That's going to be one sweet-shifting tranny! Car sounds great, BTW.

Just in case: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt/pd2118870/REPLACEMENT_SEAT_BRACKETS_

Too true and would work in the Bay Area as well...

Sounds like a hydraulic problem. Have you checked the fluid level in your master?

-3 is definitely not 0.093" ID. More like 0.156".

Holy SH**, the guy wants $265 for a freakin' crossmember... wow.