Leon

Thanks from me as well!

This is probably irrelevant at this point, but just for general knowledge, the more radius your air horn has, the better it'll perform. There is a point of diminishing returns, but your air horns, although beautifully crafted, could use a tighter radius on the lip. With that said, this is looking good!

That's funny! I'm selling the shell from this car here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109990-271-240z-rust-free-stripped-shell/

No, re-read my post.

Good point, I forgot to mention that as well.

Not quite... It's the intake valve that has a clearance problem, not the exhaust. No L26 blocks came notched from the factory.

This is looking great! Is Rockauto all out of the LD pumps?

Nice job!

Nice, I didn't know the JDM stuff was so similar to the Nissan Comp manifold.

Again, I'm 99.9% sure it's the Nissan Comp manifold, same as was used on the BRE car(s).

My guess would be FET, but I don't know for sure. Looks a bit long for a Mikuni manifold, plus this one has separate flanges and a central connector which I don't see on the Mikuni. Measure the length and see if you can match it up: Triple carb intake length EDIT: Whoops, definitely not FET. However, I'm almost certain that it is a Nissan Comp piece, Ã la BRE 240Z.

Hell, my L24 with triples runs just fine on 89 (haven't tried 87) with 36deg of advance, even heat soaked on a dyno...

I would not call the Weber DGVs "better carburetors".

My distributor cap seating issue had to do with the cap not physically being able to seat on a 240Z distributor. From memory, the distributor had a little plateau sticking out of it but the cap didn't have a corresponding notch. This was a new cap that was bought at an auto parts store. The car had pinging issues no matter how rich I ran it. I only noticed the problem after removing the distributor and seeing the gap between it and the cap. With the distributor mounted, it was almost imperceptible, unless you really looked for it. Just sharing my experience, YMMV!

It could be something as simple as a poorly-seated distributor cap (been there, done that!). Was the same ignition system used on both engines? If so, I suspect something is up with your spark.

Standard fare for a header install. Offset grind the washers so they sit level and don't bend the studs.

I haven't had any fan blower issues, so I'm not very familiar with that circuit. You'll just have to go through the typical procedure for finding a short. The FSM has a wiring diagram that shows the circuit nicely.

Did you read this thread?

Absolutely FANTASTIC work!!! Sounds great, love the long primaries!

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/90-l-series/

It's another early 260Z anomaly (include the late 240Z in this one, though). The factory early 260Z rear ARB mounts differ in location from late 260Z/280Z. Thus, the 280Z bar is not bent in a way that accomodates mounting it on an early 260Z. This thread details it very nicely: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95664-260z-rear-sway-bar-what-will-if-fit/

They didn't make it shorter, unless you got the wrong insert. An answer to my initial question might give us a clue. The part number from the inserts you pulled could help as well.

I'll let you know, but shipping would suck. I'm only about 1.5 hours away from you so the drive wouldn't be bad. I could probably give you both doors for $100, but I'm not separating them from the car just yet.

Do you have coilovers/sectioned struts?

I had the same starting problem, I bypassed the interlock and wired in a $5 relay. No problems since. As far as bypassing the factory fail-safes, I did it to have pump priming capabilities for starts after long periods of sitting. Then, shortly thereafter, I completely removed the factory electric pump. I've been running fine with the mechanical pump ever since.