Leon

My guess would be FET, but I don't know for sure. Looks a bit long for a Mikuni manifold, plus this one has separate flanges and a central connector which I don't see on the Mikuni. Measure the length and see if you can match it up: Triple carb intake length EDIT: Whoops, definitely not FET. However, I'm almost certain that it is a Nissan Comp piece, Ã la BRE 240Z.

Hell, my L24 with triples runs just fine on 89 (haven't tried 87) with 36deg of advance, even heat soaked on a dyno...

I would not call the Weber DGVs "better carburetors".

My distributor cap seating issue had to do with the cap not physically being able to seat on a 240Z distributor. From memory, the distributor had a little plateau sticking out of it but the cap didn't have a corresponding notch. This was a new cap that was bought at an auto parts store. The car had pinging issues no matter how rich I ran it. I only noticed the problem after removing the distributor and seeing the gap between it and the cap. With the distributor mounted, it was almost imperceptible, unless you really looked for it. Just sharing my experience, YMMV!

It could be something as simple as a poorly-seated distributor cap (been there, done that!). Was the same ignition system used on both engines? If so, I suspect something is up with your spark.

Standard fare for a header install. Offset grind the washers so they sit level and don't bend the studs.

I haven't had any fan blower issues, so I'm not very familiar with that circuit. You'll just have to go through the typical procedure for finding a short. The FSM has a wiring diagram that shows the circuit nicely.

Did you read this thread?

Absolutely FANTASTIC work!!! Sounds great, love the long primaries!

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/90-l-series/

It's another early 260Z anomaly (include the late 240Z in this one, though). The factory early 260Z rear ARB mounts differ in location from late 260Z/280Z. Thus, the 280Z bar is not bent in a way that accomodates mounting it on an early 260Z. This thread details it very nicely: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95664-260z-rear-sway-bar-what-will-if-fit/

They didn't make it shorter, unless you got the wrong insert. An answer to my initial question might give us a clue. The part number from the inserts you pulled could help as well.

I'll let you know, but shipping would suck. I'm only about 1.5 hours away from you so the drive wouldn't be bad. I could probably give you both doors for $100, but I'm not separating them from the car just yet.

Do you have coilovers/sectioned struts?

I had the same starting problem, I bypassed the interlock and wired in a $5 relay. No problems since. As far as bypassing the factory fail-safes, I did it to have pump priming capabilities for starts after long periods of sitting. Then, shortly thereafter, I completely removed the factory electric pump. I've been running fine with the mechanical pump ever since.

When I first got my early 260Z, the tach did the same thing. The PO wired in a starter button, but it was done in such a way as to short-out the instrument panel! The tach was fried and would go to 8k with ignition ON. It worked sometimes, but randomly. A $25 280Z tach from ebay solved the problem.

I do. I'll make a list of stuff if/when I decide to part-out. I don't want to muddy up this thread.

Sweet! MJ + EDIS really transforms the car and makes response much crisper. Sounds like you're almost to the end of the tunnel. I haven't played much with my tach yet, but I do have the diodes on hand to make it work. Just haven't done it yet...

I've got nice, clean doors, but don't have matching keys. Re-keying the locks isn't a big deal though, just remove them and send 'em off to a locksmith with the key. Easy-peasy and inexpensive! The doors are on the shell I've got for sale, so I want to hold off for a little bit before I totally part it out. I'm on the Peninsula. I can give you a holler if/when I decide to get rid of them.

I did the something similar in my early 260Z. If you look at the wiring diagram, the jumper bypasses the cut relays and runs the pump all the time with key ON. This also takes out all fuel-pump shutoff devices in case the car is in an accident, thus the pump will keep pumping fuel even with the engine dead, the car upside-down, etc. As you will find in the FSM, cut relay #1 deactivates the pump if engine speed goes below 400rpm and cut relay #2 kill the pump during cranking.

Early 260Z owners must doubly-make sure to do their research before buying parts!

It sounds like a good idea but man, people would thrash the s*** out of those cars! You'd have to have some serious insurance coverage... Yeah, just let me know, she's all yours.

Thanks for the tips! I'll let you know but I have some buddies that have trucks (Silverado, F150, etc.) if it comes down to that!

Sure, how about I just start a Z-car rental company!

Oh, Alabama. Makes sense... :lmao: Sorry, I HAD to do it!!! I'm fully prepared for a stereotyping counter-punch based on my location.