Leon

Dan is right, but there is a lot of info here on how to get your swap CARB certified. If you want to keep the '77 and do a swap, do some searching and you should find some very thorough information. Good luck!

Sounds like fun! Hope you don't have any neighbors within earshot...

I would test the ignition switch per the FSM. Also, you'll get more and better help if you attempt using good punctuation. Poorly punctuated, long paragraphs don't get much attention. Take your time, phrase the thoughts in your head carefully and it will be easier to help you.

I think you may be mixing up my replies to you and SleeperZ? I understand that you don't feel that EGR is useless, but I also never mentioned EGR as being some solution for getting better gas mileage. My whole point throughout this entire thread is that EGR and vapor recovery system do in fact serve a function, which may have merit to some and be meaningless to others. SleeperZ made a sweeping generalization so I provided extra information so that we don't keep getting people that trash emission control systems for no other reason than pure ignorance. Gaining an understanding of what one is working on is paramount to making good decisions. Ultimately, I hope this will help the OP in taking a more educated approach after realizing the function of the components he's trying to ditch (original point of this thread). Well said Ron.

I understand the point of this thread and am not debating it. What I'm debating are your contentions about EGR not affecting performance. Even if you don't see or feel a difference, it doesn't mean it's not there. Whether that's of consequence to you is another matter altogether. Just because it's irrelevant to you doesn't make it so to everyone else. Most of what you say makes sense, besides what I've highlighted in bold. EGR does in fact give you better mpg, the explanation is given in the thread I linked. You have to compare apples to apples. Comparing aftermarket and OEM EFI is completely useless, they are vastly different both physically (no AFM restriction along with other possible modifications) as well as in their design intent (you can lean out aftermarket EFI way more than factory does out of concern for the catalytic converter).

Well in that case, I have no clue how you're defining "operational consequences". I take "operational consequences" to mean the result of an action onto the operation of the vehicle. Neither the age of the car in question nor the emissions requirements of said car has anything to do with the effects of removing equipment. Are you saying that the EGR and the vapor recovery systems don't do anything? Just because your car "passed" some emissions test doesn't mean that nothing changed. Do you have printouts showing the numbers from tailpipe and evap testing before and after removal? How about a log of average mpg before and after? A properly working EGR system will give you better gas mileage and decrease NOX emissions. A working vapor recovery system will release less HC into the atmosphere by way of gas fumes. I would think anyone would welcome that, especially if you park your Z in the garage, considering that you'd be the one breathing in all those fumes. Frankly, saying that there are no "operational consequences" (call them what you want) for deleting these things is just plain ignorant.

Deleting these definitely does have "operational consequences", both performance and emissions related. Both of these are described in the FSM. The benefits of the vapor canister should be pretty clear, but I'll add a pertinent link about EGR. EGR discussion

Keep in mind that the stock wheel has some dish to it, maybe 2" or so. My Momo wheel is the same distance away from me as the stock wheel was. Depending on the dish of the wheel you're using, the quick release may add only 1-2".

Holy crap, I did not realize how much of a PITA it is to replace the clutch master. How small did Nissan think a typical hand is? Last week, I was driving the Z and the clutch pedal got softer and softer, as the engagement point got lower and lower. Tell-tale sign of a dying clutch master, especially since I replaced a dying clutch slave a few months prior. Hence the reason for the clutch master replacement. I guess they really do go in pairs. I haven't updated much mostly because of doing home renovations, buying another car, blah blah blah... Besides the clutch master and little things here and there, I haven't made much "progress", but instead have just been driving.

You need to search around a bit, as this has all been discussed in detail. The information you need is out there and not all that hard to find. I much prefer to use google as my sole search engine. Just type in site:hybridz.org and the keyword. You can do this for any website.

AFAIK, the so-called "Series-I" Z-cars were built from late '69 to early '71, up to a serial number of around 21000. Therefore, I'd say there were more than 20,000 "Series-I" 240Zs.

Dave is on here as well: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/user/1483-hls30-08077/

Out of curiosity, what's the highest temperature you've measured?

The S30 suspension is all steel, BTW.

It is awesome! MONGO was the first I've seen to do a bellcrank setup in an S30, and I just noticed that Mark Rolston has his own iteration as well.

Is cold start enrichment on? It could be screwing with your pulsewidths as the coolant warms up. From looking at your datalog, your temp reading looks pretty messy. Looks like your PW correlates with the temp reading, since you have a temp spike and the leaning follows along. I would turn off cold start enrichment and tune from there.

I dunno, you'll have to post a vid!

These "tuners" have no clue what they're doing or talking about. You have a fully programmable fuel management system, there is nothing stopping you, nor anyone else, from competently tuning it besides some knowledge and research. SDS has manuals for this stuff, it's not magic. Here are the links from their website. This means that either you need to study up and tune it yourself, or find a shop that knows what they're doing. Since you have a distributor, there is nothing stopping you from retarding the timing enough so it doesn't ping and tuning the fuel map to get your fueling right. Worry about ignition after you've dialed in you fuel.

You'll be fine, if you time the cam correctly. The PO did not understand the importance this concept.

Intermittent issues tend to be electrical/ignition failures. Since you have a ZX distributor, I'd suspect the module first. Any spares on-hand?

We're not talking about ignition, but about the fuel map. I don't know whether or not your SDS controls the ignition on your car. Frankly, the information in this thread is vague and porous, there are a lot of holes to be filled. What kind of ignition system are you using? Distributor? Crank trigger? The fuel map should be tuned first, followed by ignition.

Agreed. My carbs have a better AFR traceline than that. Sounds like your "tuner" is not very competent.

Yeah. I got a 5-pack from ebay for roughly the same price.

My 260Z had the "click but no start" issue. I simply wired in a 30A relay with the starter spade wire now going into the relay, acting as the signal wire. Ran a new wire to the starter from the relay, connected power and ground wires to the relay and no problems since. Wiring is fundamentally the same, no matter what kind of relay you use (small "Bosch" style, or big Ford solenoid, etc). Now I have a switch, that triggers a relay, which triggers another relay, and activates the starter.