Scottie-GNZ

HUH? WHAT? : : What exactly do you want to do with the car? Sounds like you have watched F&F a couple times too many.

A 2600# 240Z with a 600rwhp GN will go 9.20s @ 140s. How hard is it? For me, that would mean stripiing off 150#, putting a girdle on the bottom-end, some forged pistons, and a bigger turbo. Having said all of that, I certainly know you have no idea of what something like that would be on the streets. I certainly would never run a Z that quick strett racing with the way the crowds line the road. I consider myself a good shoe on the strip, but every time I think back to my little episode, I shudder to think how many people I would have killed if that was on the street. However, I do not want to start preaching about street racing. Why don't you plan on coming up to reynolds in 2 weeks? At least you will see a low-10 sec GNZ in action and there is supposed to be a low-8 sec Z coming. That will give you some idea of what it is all about. My advice is to keep that as a dream for now and learn how to drive and respect a quick car first. Believe me, there is a big difference between driving a 13-sec Z vs driving a 10-sec Z. Nothing wrong with your dream though. MOF, I like it expect for the street part.

I am with you Terry. I was going to say I am getting old, but remembered I am old Burnouts are for heating up stickies so you can pin your eyeballs in the back of your head.

A rough and safe rule of thumb on how much HP an I/C can support (before pressure drop) is to divide the advertised flow rate by 1.55.

Nothing beats the look of a muscular, black Z

Wanna see 9s? Pass around a collection plate to help pay for the tranny damage :D.

Well, I have been struggling with tranny problems for some time. Some might recall that the car had to be towed home on the way to a Z show in Gainesville. Thought the problem was the new converter but it turns out the front pump and input shaft was damaged. Soon after that was fixed, I had a bad leak from the tranny and some might recall the car smoking on the top-end at Reynolds. I have dropped the pan a total of 7 times (laying on my back ..) trying different gaskets, sealants and also fixing the shift governor. Turns out the leak was coming from the vent tube and it kept getting worse. BAD NEWS - Had to pull the tranny again and discovered the front pump and shaft again was damaged. This time the pump cracked where the shaft goes through it. No clue what is causing it. GOOD NEWS (maybe) - Pump/shaft replaced again and hopefully I can test it and run at Reynolds, if it holds up BAD NEWS - If it holds up I will not be pushing the car and hope I will not yield to temptation to crank it up. Best case the car runs about the same time or less if I crank it down. Its really gonna hurt to do that Hopefully, if it holds up, I will pull it again and try to get to the bottom of it. Converter runout? Pushing stock components too hard? Fluke? The 2 incidents have completely different symptoms and the actual pump damage. One thing in common though, it all started when I installed the new converter. 240Z Turbo, if you are wondering, I am establishing my excuse for the ass-whupping you plan on laying me :D

That is correct. The C4 IRS was available with a 2.59: ratio. Although the car is a ZX, let me know if there is anything I can do to help. As for the NHRA rule on IRS, I am still confused. If anyone has a 2003 rulebook, could you please quote what it says about IRS. Here is the only thing I can find on the web: "A long-standing rule that requires any car with independent rear suspension (IRS), weighing over 2000 pounds, and running 10.99 or quicker to replace the IRS with a conventional rear-end housing has been modified. For 1999, only those IRS designs which utilize a lower control arm only (like a 1963 to 1982 Corvette) will have to comply with the above requirement. If the suspension utilizes both upper and lower control arms, the IRS may be retained regardless of weight or e.t." Note that the revision was made in '99 and the specific reference to a Corvette is for the C3. Why not also spell out the C4 if it did not comply? OTOH, I wonder if they would consider mine compliant with my mod connecting the hub to the Z shock tower with a coilover? Really does not matter since I do not intend to compete in events where those rules would enforced.

John, what ratio are you needing and what application requires such a ratio? Just curious.

He has an open invitation to SEZS. Would be nice to get a close up of nice cars like this.

Next thing is to check for weak valve springs or wiped cam lobes. Is this a new cam and did you follow the break-in procedure? Jon, a timing light is not necessary with the SDS as the monitor displays total timing.

Only way to answer that question is to know the offset or backspacing and what size tire you intend to use.

One of the shocking things about the Pierburg and Walbro hi-po pumps is how small the outlet ports are. I had my doubts, but, man they really move some fuel.

Great thread and one that has my interest because I have experience with the 215ci and the 302 SBC, both in hybrids. The 215ci in a 73 Vega GT and the 302 in a 73 914. I do not want to bust anybody's bubble but I am sure many will agree with me that by today's standard, a 215 is woefully inadequate. Back in the early days, the hot ticket was to swap on the 300 heads because the stock 215 has a bad cause of asthma. I do not think the average Joe could afford what it would take to extract 275RWHP from a NA 215, and if you could, why would you? As for the 302, making a 302 with the correct bore and stroke gets you nothing more than an engine with 302ci unless you have the key ingridient, the heads. Go back in history and look at some of the early carb'd OEM small block monsters and you will see they all had one thing common. The 302 SBC, the 327/375, the early LT1, the Boss302 and the Mopar 340 all had heads with huge ports and 2.02 intake valves and would rev until kingdom come. The free-flowing heads and cam was a big factor in the attaining the RPMs. One last thing. I keep seeing references to the added weight of forced induction as if it is a negative and that is not a good argument, at least from a power standpoint. The power gain far outweighs the added weight.

Check the ratios before you commit. You could end with with a useless 1st gear and big ratio drop on the 1-2 and you will not be happy.

SleeperZ, those are BFG DRs, I bet. Big difference the BFGs and the Nittos for street driving. Boy, I do not even want to find out what the top speed on my car is. I was out testing my new cam (Oops, cats out the bag!) and my eyes bugged out at the 3rd gear acceleration. It's been a while since I drove the car at speed but that was 16psi in street trim Unfortunately, the tranny is not cooperating and at WOT, shifts 1-2 at 3800 and 2-3 at 5000. My converter flashes to 3900 so that is probably not going to work So frustrating, because the tranny is something I do not know much about.

It is unfortunate that they have done such a poor job bringing his books to the screen. One of the most popular films is "Christine" and I thought it sucked, but the book, "WOW!". The best job I think they did on the screen was "Cujo" but the book was simply terrifying. You just could not get the mental picture of that dog out of your mind.

Do generalize all straight-thru mufflers as glasspacks or some of the ricer mufflers. Some of the ricer mufflers are intentionally built to make that sound. As Brad said, a Dynomax UltraFlow is a straight-thru but very quiet and one of the best on the market. From my experience, avoid the Flowmaster 2-chamber. That was the 1st muffler I put on my L28ET and I threw it in the garbage after 1 week as my nerves were shot from the drone and noise, and on a turbo engine no less. Seriously, look into the UltraFlow. They are expensive but you get what you pay for. They now make a non-SS version which is less costly. BTW, as much as possible, try to get at least 6" of tailpipe on the muffler to help with the sound.

Hoke, my brain is a little fuzzy on the details, but here is one more suggestion. Z-Gad's comment on the FP got me thinking. I suggest you buy a FP gauge, connect it into the system before the FPR with a long hose that will allow you to tape it the windshield while driving. The test is to see what the FP is at 4500. It should = base (line off) + the amount of boost you have. I thoroughly dislike the stock FPR and worse when you have an upgraded combo. It is possible you do not have enough fuel pressure at that RPM/boost. For safety sake, have a buddy in the car wattching the boost gauge and calling out the boost while you focus on the road and gauge in front of you. FYI, I have a FP gauge on a long hose permanently installed on my engine, with the extra hose rolled up and the gauge resting under the brake booster. When in doubt, I tape the gauge to the wiper to check FP at boost. As a practice, always check FP at idle with the line off, capping the open line so the engine continues to idle OK.

IMO, that's ridiculous to spend that kind of money.

Unless you are building a monster, a single GSL392 should suffice. I used it up to about 450rwhp.

The engine in that car was built by Duttweiler and supposedly hit 1800hp at full tilt on Dutt's dyno. Chris has not cranked it all the way up yet.

If you think the movie is scary, read the book.

Try slipping the clutch a tad coming off the line. Another thing to think about is a simple 2-step where you can limit the boost to say 10-12psi at the line and let it loose after the 1-2 shift

If you spend $1100 for an HK$ kit, next time I come up to Roebling Raod I will look you up and beat over the head with it Seriously, as FL327 said, go the Turbo/S-charger forum and read the FAQ. It is the 1st post. After you read that, come back and ask your Qs.