Scottie-GNZ

There is a big difference between what a setup should run and what the owner is capable of making it run. A Civic with the Prelude engine, chip, exhaust, filter and decent tires should run at least mid-13s. There are several in Orlando that does. BTW, a 8.53 1/8-mile is a 13.36 1/4-mile and typically FWD does not do well in the 60'. Would you believe someone if they told you their bone-stock Neon :D ran 14.1s? Well, I saw it with my own eyes last night. One of the local Dodge dealers had a new Neon SST out testing it last night for a big promotion and after they were able to get the wheelspin under better control (it still spun too much), it ripped off a 14.19 @ 97+ You are going to hear a lot about this car in the near future and people who look down on these little 4-bangers are going to be in for a rude awakening.

Walbro GSL392 - Excellent pump for just about any L28ET on this forum. Do not get caught up in a manufacturer's advertised flow rate unless you know at what pressure and voltage and be especially concerned about flow dropoff at 60psi and above. Here is an example of what you need to know. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/fuelsystem/walbroflow.html Look at the GSL392 and you will see at 65psi it flows 49gph @ 12V and 59gph @ 13.5V. The stock pump wire is probably 16-gauge (if that) and long and probably corroded. Most Zs are lucky if they see 11V at the pump. If you use a BSFC of .55 lbs of fuel per HP, you can see even running higher fuel pressure is safe with this pump. Make sure when you order this you also ask for the fittings you need. The thread is metric and sometimes difficult to find locally.

That is just one small part of the total cost. Figure out how you are going to plumb it, then factor in the cost of all that mandrel piping, "Y" connections into the I/Cs and into the TB and all the connector ho$e$. Remember that the "Ys" must have the right spacing to properly line up with the parallel I/C pipes so chances are someone will have to make them. Only then will you understand the true cost for a solution that MIGHT get you what you want. Do not fall into the trap of thinking a solution is cheap because you can get parts from a junkyard. Ironically I have not heard any mention of how much HP you plan on making and that is the determining factor in the flow capacity of the I/C you need. I bet you will find that there will be little cost difference in the end with going for a single I/C from RRE or being patient and ready to pounce on a good deal for a quality I/C when it becomes available.

Do not have dimensions handy, but look at the "Which NPR" thread in this fprum.

That's the way to conduct business.

Can't figure out what that is under the hood of the brand new CTS? Look here for the answer. http://www.buickwe4.com/CTS/DSC00600.jpg

You certainly were not going to find us in the tower :D. That was 240Z Turbo, Speeder, Z-Gad, 280Zen and myself.

I encountered serious pressure drop at about 400RWHP with the large one. When I discovered it, I also measured charge temps at the compressor outlet and TB and despite the restriction, it was still doing a good job of cooling what it could flow. Quickest I ever went with it was 11.20 but I was still running the R200 with the wrong gearing. I would say 350 would be a good target.

Here are a couple more pics to help identifying NPRs and put the size in perspective. Nothe that the medium and large NPRs have 2.75" pipe pointing slightly up/out. The NPR pictured above is the smallest of the 3 sizes available. It can be identified by the pipes being 2.5" and pointing straight forward. Here is a comparison (implying nothing but size) of the medium sized NPR (and most common) to the Spearco. Note how much physically smaller the Spearco is but also note the size, number and configuration of the tubes. This was already discussed recently in another thread. Here is a comparison of the medium and large NPRs And, to put it all in perspective, here is the the large compared to a Z radiator. HTH,

ISickS, I am terrible with names but somehow Mike comes to mine. I think I know too many Mikes. Yes, I remember you installed a FMIC and was pondering what tires to use because you were having traction problems. 280Zen, it is not about how quick you are compared to others, but just having fun and getting the experience. It is still a rush whether you are doing 10s or 17s. 20s I am not so sure about :D Mike, things are coming along with the mods and should be ready for Wed but I will be there regardless to see how you run with a "real" clutch. How about all the Orlando area folks plan on coming out to Speedworld Wed night? 1st meeting of the Mouse Performance Z-car club. No wait, mouse would imply SBC and I do not think there is one in the crowd

Do not mean to imply that anyone has to race, just that the track would be another place for a gathering since several of us frequent it. I meant to attend the Z show but someone came down from Ohio to buy Misred's GN drivetrain to swap into a 280Z of all things. Misred had a serious accident and needed a hand and the person did not show up until about 1pm. BTW, the person has never been on the forum and even though I encouraged him, he did not seem like the type that frequents the Internet.

Stony, is that with you in the car? Kinda meaningless without factoring in the driver weight and how the driving position affects F-R distribution.

A 12-pack of beer to our local welder took care of the pits. No skill needed there, just dabs to cover the pits then then the careful grinding and polishing begins.

Mine and my buddy Patrick's which is now owned by Tyler. MAJOR, time-consuming work.

Last I recall from my talk with them was about $350 + shipping and they are made on demand. You then have to do your Lexan/plexiglass. Not cheap when it is all done.

Next Wed or Fri night depending on the progress getting a e-boost controller setup and dialed in. We seem to have enough folks in the Central FL area for our own performance-oriented gatherings. Are you all game for setting something up, maybe meet monthly + track visits?

Mine, the one pictured above with the blue hoses, is from Cartech (Corky Bell) http://www.cartech.net/intercoolers.htm You can also check Spearco, and RRE. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/intercoolers.htm Not sure of your welding skills (welding up an I/C is not the thing to learn on) but here is a neat How-To http://toyotaperformance.com/intercooler.htm BTW, when you look at those cores, estimate HP as CFM=1.5xHP, but remember that is HP before you start encountering pressure drop.

Mike, be strong and we are all pulling for you and yours.

Same arrangements as last year?

Don't know about anyone else, but you sure got me confused as to what you are building. Just a couple of days ago you asked me about GN turbos for a TT SBC. As for I/Cs, just about all the cooling gets done in the first 8-10" of the tubing, so there is no benefit to long tubes. I have seen some of these ricer I/Cs that "look" impressive but they are short, very wide, have 4 maybe 5 tubes and useless because they flow so little. A big core does not necessarily mean the I/C flows more as the main factor that determines flow is the total area of the openings of all the tubes in the tank. Lets compare 2 I/Cs that both have a core size of 24"x8"x3" and tube size of 3"x.5". However, one has 20 tubes running top to bottom and the other has 8 running side to side. With each tube having an area of 4.5" sq in, the top-bottom design has a total area of 90 sq in in the tank while the other has 36 sq in. Which is going to flow more? Unfortunately, when looking for optimum FMIC efficiency, you cannot always find one that fits the car perfectly. If you are not willing to sacrifice performance then sometimes you have to whip out the Dremel. As for the tube size, on the turbo side I am running a 2"-2.25" step hose (compressor outlet is 2") to a 2.25" tube which gets blown out to 2.5" to fit the I/C. On the TB side I am running 2.5" into a 57mm TB. Does not seem to be hurting me with almost 500rwhp.

Couldn't have said it any better myself. Been grinning for over 3 years :D

Did you check the valve/rocker clearance like we discussed?

Douglas, that is a Honda drag car so that pipe is the entire exhaust. It exits through the front fender in front of the front tire.

What exactly are you trying to do with your car? I assume drag racing, so how much HP, what tires and how quick do you expect to be going? I smeall another Z-car squat debate coming

Lets hope this one stays together for a couple of months and you plan on joining us in GA in Sept. You are an inspiration to many Zers, especially those who want to stay L6 NA, and it would be great to have you there.