Scottie-GNZ

WOW! All I can think to say is "BIG BADA-BOOM"

Lots of Buicks making big HP with the stock I/C and remember, on the Buick, the I/C is mounted between the engine and radiator The front side of the stock I/C setup has a box with a large scoop on the bottom and on the engine side there is a fan. The ultimate would be what is referred to a 'Stretch" or "I/C and a 1/2", where half of a core is attached to full core and the tanks extended. That combined with the Duttweiler necks in a FMIC configuration could easily support 450rwhp. Of course, it will not be priced like a Starion but if you are planning on running big turbo HP, cheap I/Cs should not be considered.

You will love it, trust me

See my signature but also do a Search in this forum on GN and you will find enough to keep you occupied for a week.

What Grumpy said. 300rwhp by my cabobulator. You CANNOT compare dyno numbers unless both cars were run on the same dyno under the same condition!!! Regarding hypers, the key is to avoid detonation by running less timing and more fuel/octane, no different than running more boost. BTW, I am running hypers and we need to remember that there has been siginificant improvements in the quality over the years.

For now you are testing to see where you can improve, so forget about the lights, forget about reaction time and forget about the car in the next lane. Get a pair of 235/60-15 BFG DRs and focus on what it takes to get the car launched for the quickest 60'. It is not unusual to see me have a 3-sec reaction time because I am sitting there focusing on launch RPM, boost, etc. Like Jeff said, does not matter if you sit there for a minute, it has no effect on the ET. What it will do is help you understand better what it takes to launch the car so the next time it is more instinctive. Getting the car launched for a good 60' is not about just revving up the engine and dumping the clutch unless you are running monster slicks. With a 2.19 60', you are giving away .5 in the ET and you can gain that with the tires, patience and focus. I know it is human nature to be concerned about the car in the next lane but you have to focus on shutting off everything else going on around you. I know this will sound strange but when you start becoming focused, all the confusion you experienced will become a calm and things almost seem to be in slow-motion. This is kind of like the hitter saying they can see the seams on a 90mph fastball. BTW, notice how many times I said focus

Well its about DAMN time :D Congrats!!

...or a LU.

A long time ago I had a copy of the factory ign and HP/torque curves but lost it. However, that is what my maps were based on. Rules of thumb: ramp the advance to be all in by 3000-3200, use 4500 as the peak for the torque curve, build the IGN and RETARD maps to have a total of about 24* at 15psi boost. That is a starting point and where you start using that neat device on the SDS that I like to call the "What If Knob". I am referring to the R/L knob. How do you tune on the street? Lets say you are tuning for driveability and the car has a hesitation/stumble at 3000. Is it too rich or too lean? What if I richened or leaned it out? Turn the knob and find out and if it responds to Rich, add some fuel at 3000 in RPM FUEL. If you are tuning for boost and the car has a stumble/hesitation at 4500 and 8psi, turn the knob. If it responds to Rich, add fuel in MANPRESS at 8psi and up. Once the car is running fine w/o boost, then you leave IGN and RPM FUEL alone. If you have to change timing under boost, change the IGN RETARD not IGN. Tuning is not a set and forget operation unless you can hit it perfect the first time , so base maps and rules of thumbs should only be considered as good starting points. Folks would be surprised how easy it becomes when you understand the basic principles. It is not voodoo black magic that should scare anyone :D

Couple of depends! If it is an 84-85 motor, I say pass. If it is a 86-87 then it depends on what he means by complete. If it is missing things like the headers, intake, upper plenum, turbo, coilpack/ignition modules, blah, blah, then MAYBE. All those parts are available but you are going to end up nickel/dime yourself to death. That might not be all so bad because it is so easy and cheap to pull an extra 100hp out of the stock engine, it could be worth it. Get a complete inventory list and lets see what he's got. You definitely want more than the parts that a machine shop would work on.

With the number of SDS owners on this forum, this is the kind of discussion I have been longing to see you all have. Couple of points and then I will fade away. The base settings supplied with an SDS are meaningless unless the base fuel value (the basis on which the fuel map is built) was derived from a factor that included the L28 cyl displacement of ~466c AND the exact flow rate of the injs YOU are using. In addition, the static timing should be 20#BTDC. If this is not the base setting in your SDS, then that base setting is nothing more than maps to maybe get the engine started for you to immediately start tuning. IMPORTANT (and I think I tell this to everyone who has asked): The RPM FUEL curve should be built to match the engine's torque curve NOT the HP curve. The highest map value should be at about the same RPM as your peak torque. Do not have large increases in value from one step to another. Remember that the injection rate also increases as RPM increases so it takes more than just the value you enter into account. For some strange reasons, I have seen lots of L28ETs that do not idle well with the RPM value that it should have at 500, 750 and 1000. In most cases I fiddle with the values in those 3 parameters until it idles decent but leave the other numbers alone. This is usually an indication of something not right with the engine, something as simple as bad vacuum leaks. Do not ever change the RPM FUEL map to add more fuel under boost. Instead, use the MANPRESS map. Whatever values are in RPM FUEL is there always. If you build RPM FUEL to compensate for boost, you will also have that fuel when you are not under boost. With MANPRESS, the values for boost will only be added when under boost. So, if you are at 4500RPMs and 10psi and running lean, do not add fuel at 4500 in RPM FUEL, add it at 10psi in MANPRESS. If you are tuning for boost and adding fuel in MANPRESS then consider the following. Lets say you need to add fuel at 8psi and you increase the 8psi parameter by +3, I suggest adding +3 to every subsequent parameter. If the map causes you to run lean at 8psi, it is almost certain the same or worse will happen at 9, 10 and so on. Recommendation to every L28ET owner. When was the last time you inspected or changed vacuum hoses? I suggest you invest some pennies and replace every single one AND use zipties. You would be amazed where you could be losing boost. Pull your PCV and make sure it is still a one-way valve. If it is not, you are dumping boost into the crankcase. HARD LESSONS LEARNED! I wonder how many L28ETs are still running the original vacuum hoses and PCV? :D OK, I will fade away now.

I agree with Lockjaw and SleeperZ on that. The ACT 6-puck clutch and street tire combo is going to hinder you badly. Great combo if you are entering a burnout contest

Kyle, SIMPLY AWESOME!

Well, lets see. The K&N is probably good for 50hp and the 60hp shot of NAWS is probably good for about 150hp.

BLING, BLING!

Andrew and SCCA?

I have been wanting to look into converting the 1/4 windows to pop out but no time to get into it. I bet if someone came up with a neat way of doing that they could sell quite a few of them. HINT, HINT!

Thanks, Ryan. Nice car, nice setup! What size tires, wheels and wheel backspace?

Sorry to hear about your breakage, but such are problems we face with trying to run 10s on a budget in a street car. Any auto tranny you choose to do what you want will not be cheap! However, if you were willing to switch to a 9", then you were willing to spend some $$$. 240Z Turbo can help with more specific details but do not forget you will need an adaptor plate, flex plate, convertor and t-brake, in addition to the tranny. Most of those costs can be offset by selling all your manual tranny components. I, of course, have a preference for the Turbo Buick version of the 200-4R (code BRF) and there are some Buicks still running this tranny with mildly tuned Stage II engines. Mildly tuned SII usually means 800+RWHP and 7000 RPMs. Your best bet is work a performance specialist and make them understand your requirements, especially the RPMs. The HP and torque should not be a big problem in such a light car, especially with the BRF. You are shooting for 500+ FWHP and I am close to that the wheels, so that is a good indicator. In the end it will probably cost about the same as the 9", depending on how much you can sell the manual components for. However, the car will not only be quicker, but most important, consistent. Here are 2 guys you speak with to get some idea of what you are getting into. Tell them I referred you. Bruce at http://WWW.PTSXTREME.COM Chris at http://www.ckperformance.com

Drax, you are taxing my memory for something I want to forget If I recall it was something like 52 or 55lbs. It would not stay up with 2 shocks so I had to carry a shortened broomstick. The brackets eventually started seperating from the hatch itself and I put it and myself out of its misery. Actually my wife is the one that forced the issue on getting rid of it because she personally hated that hatch. One day she was loading stuff in the rear and accidentally hit the broomstick and the hatch came down on her face. Left her with a permanent scar on her upper lip and a new scar on my ass every time she brings it up Imagine the scene when I rushed her into the emergency room with her holding her face and both of us drenched in blood. "Mr Scott, you got some 'splaining to do".

Yup, you are correct. Hope you also noticed that you listed all 21st century cars with suspensions designed to work with such wheels/tires. The Z, OTOH, was designed in the 60s for 175/70-14s.

Not ZG flares but it gives you an idea anyhow. Not sure if anyone has ever seen this pic of my car. Anyway, 17x8.5 with 275/50-17 on the rear and 17x8.5 with 225/45-17 on the fronts. To be honest, I regret putting the 17s on my car. They are incredibly heavy and the thump, thump from the short, non-compliant sidewall combined with the upgraded suspension has gotten old. However, lately I seem to be having senior moments almost everyday .

Strictly for running at the track. The only time these tires would see public roads is for the 9-mile drive to the local track. The C4 also came with a 2.73 but it uses a different carrier than the 3.xx gearsets. Besides, I will be needing new drag tires soon, so that kills 2 birds...... Mike, you are correct if you are looking for a 12" drag radial or DOT slicks. The wider tires only come with a taller tire. Of course, when you run a slick or DOT slick you do not need that much tread width. The tread width on my QTPs are only 8"!! Best you could probably do is a 26x11.5-15 QTP or ET Streets which has a tread width of 10" and a section width of 11+". On a really wide wheel it would help fill up your tub and you would be hard pressed to spin those out of the hole. You would definitely have the screw your bobble-head to the dash . They are DOT but you definitely would not drive around on them.

Drax, I ditched that monstrosity a while back and now have a temporary stock hatch. I was hoping Les Heath would come through with his promise on a fiberglass hatch, but......... If anyone in my area is going to do a Lexan hatch glass, let me know as I might be interested in getting one also.

I am seriously considering a 27x10.5x16 MT ET Streets but do not want to end up with the car looking "jacked up". I am looking to break loose and start turning up wick but the car is going to have ridiculous MPH and I need to control the RPMs thru the traps.