evildky

saw one run 13.1 last weekend, stock internals, ported intake, no I/C, 7th injector, he had boost problems and popped his head gasket, woulda been quicker but was limited to 8psi due to vacume leak

it should bolt right in, you'll want to pull the dash and drop the column to swap the pedal box and you might have to make mounts for the clutch fluid line, not sure if it'll clamp in with the existing plumbing or not, you might need the driveshaft as well, not sure

phantom grip sux, they help a little for a little while then it open diff again, don't waster your monty, and by the way whereeer you got the $360 don't shop there, pahntom grips can be had for about $280 so someone is ripping you or the jacked the price even more, cheapest route to traction would be an 87-89 300zx rear end, nissan clutch type lsd, lots of other nissan R200 lsd can be found at the junk yard as well, I helped a bud install a PG in his crx last fall, may as well not be in there now, remember these honda and neon guys are the same ones that put giant squirl catchers on the fronts of the cars and blue lights on their windshield sprayers

definitely aircraft remover, available at autozone and pepboys as well as any auto paint supply house, do your self a favor and buy the aerosol, seems to penetrate better and less mess, be carefull though that stuff burns, and will eat anything plastic or rubber, just spray it on and when it gets all wrinkley scrape as mush off as you can and hose the rest off, if there are still spot do it again, water neutralizes it so keep water handy, when you get some on your arm you'll know why

well I tracked down the proble, thanks for the imput I guess it's hard to understnad the whole problem without being there, the early master has a tiny piston that is spring loaded and pushes against the inlet hole in the end, I disassembled the master and fount the ruber piece that seals against the hole was missing, swapped front piston assembly and had front brakes but no rear, took the thing back out assuming that the check valve of the rear piston was not sealing, it is sealing but the rubber sleave that actually plunges through the cylinder was not the right size and fit loosely on the piston, I replaced the rear assembly with my old one and now have all 4 brakes working, as for why not use my old master since I was using it's internals, the hole for the screw that holds the rear piston in had stripped out, thanks for the help, and if anyone gets a napa master take it apart and inspect it carefully before installing

what is the main purpose of the car ? auto-cross, drag or street ? what you considder good handeling will not be the best for all 3 but whatever you do put the fattest front sway bar you can find on the front, huge help for autocross, helps keep you flat on sharp street turns and helps add weight to the front for wheelstanding launches

well just a wild guess, could stand for Carol Shelby International ? I know he made wheels in the 70's not sure how they were marked, sets of 3 wheels seem easy to find 4 is the trick

yeah seen them been out for a bit over a year I think, getting real popular with the wanna be "pimps and players " only one thought, bling bling ....says it all

I understand the furthest to closest thing, although I have heard good arguement for the other way as well, and yes with the helper pumping repetedly I only get small amounts of fluid with very little pressure, the lines are clear as far as I can tell, I disconnected line at rear, the little junction thing before it hits the splitter, and blew air through lines and nothing suggested a clog of any sort, I have already pulled and checked the wheel cylinders, checked the bleeders for obstruction and with the car off the booster does nothing anyhow, the booster only helps to reduce pedal effort so wether it works or not is a mute point for the moment, the problem is that there is very little pressure at any given corner of the car, of all the cars I have owned and worked on I have never had this problem with brakes

ok I have been fighting this thing for a week, I have a 71 early model with all the wierd stuff, when I got it it had no fluid at all, I topped fluid tried bleeding system and got basically nothing from the front, I did not try the rear as I was planning a rear end swap, I got a rebuilt master from napa ($45) installed it, the front would bleed but without much pressure behind it when I open valve ( helper pressing pedal) I moved to the rear and basically same thing, will bleed minute amounts of air and fluid out and thats about it, I pulled the lined coming out of the proportioning valve or whatever it is on the fender and the fluid runs freely out, I put lines back on open rear bleeder and fluid oozes out but at a real snails pace, peddle seems to get pressure and looses it when you get almost completely depressed, what am I missing ? bad master ? some other boneheaded thing that I have not checked ? help please ! and do not suggest elaborate swaps I just want to get some brakes working and soon, worry about upgrades much later

northertool.com has pumps and motors pretty much any size you want as well as all the fitting you might need as well, might be able to buy replacement parts made for yours from CH but don't knoe where ?

thanks for the reply, I do not have time to do any shipping of parts, the car is a 71 the rear bar is from a 78, I just want to use what I have, and the fat front will difinitely help hold this car streight, I learned a long time ago, the fattest front bar on a z is needed if you want to autocross one of these cars

I have seen before some rear sway bars added to early cars with the bar passing behind the axle, anyone have pic's of just how it's mounted ? I have a rear bar from a 280z and a nismo 1 1/8 front bar, I want to use the 280 rear bar on the 240 to help ballance it out, just the fatty in front leaves it a bit one sided

I had a very similar seat in my civic I built for last years Grassroots Motorsports $2002 challange, were reletively comfy, offered excelent support (I think a lawn chair offers more support than first gen z seats), but a real pain to get in and out of, you don't sit ON them, you sit IN them! if you are into autocross or road race they are awsome, they really hold you in place, down side is they are heavily upholstered and kinda heavy, I don't think they are any lighter than the z-seat

welcome to hybrib z eric

good to see another grassroots guy on the hybrid z forrum, doesn't look like a challange car gotta get my 240 ready, only 2 weekends left !

buy the biggest baddest compressor you can afford and it will likely be too small, I have a 5 hp 30gal sanbourn I have had it for jeez like 10 years never had a problem with it either but, it's too small, seems to have a hard time keeping up with some tools, like the sand blaster, or constant die grinder use, get the biggest most powerful with the largest tank you can afford, whatever you get it will likely not be powerfull enough for what you want to do with it at some point unless you get a monster $1000 shop type compressor, I have no experience with craftsman compressors but I had a hell of a time with a craftsman buffer, I will not buy any more craftsman power tools, love the hand tools though

my point with the initial post was that gramer should not feel cheap if he's willing to lay out that kind of money on wheels, as far as being fast vs looking fast I am quite sure that a 16x10 is not the fastest combo, I like the look of a 15x7 on a first gen z but a got my 14's cheap and the cost is more important than the looks to me, you and he obviously like the look of the 16x10's and to keep from gaining rotating weight you need light wheels which you have to pay more for, but I doubt it will help your times compared with your present 15's, not trying to piss in anyones wheeties but I see no logic that would suggest a larger tire is gonna give you faster lap times, you need a certain amount of sidewall flex and slip angle, too small a wheel with a lot of sidewall is gonna have a huge slip angle and be very sloppy, too large a wheel and too little sidewall will have tiny slip angle and will break loose too easily, bigger is not always better, havn't seen any race cars wear "dubbs" yet and for good reason! I have not been in any road races yet, it's 5 hours to the closest one for me, I have been autocrossing for 4 years, I have been competitive in my 85 300zx, will be driving my newly aquired 204z starting this year, I am no expert, just food for thought

never thought of revolutions or pannasports as looking fast, now BBS, ICW, lenzo and other ricer boy wheels are for looking fast, revolution or panasport are wheels capable of taking whatever you want to throw at them long race history either way, the circle wheels apparently are capable of taking the abuse as well but at an even higher price and with a wheel that large in diameter your gonna have to have a very low profile tire, which means less rollover, one of the car mags (thinking sport compact car) did a comparo a while back with 14, 15, and 16 inch wheels all with the same brand and compound tire the 15 won out on the skid pad, personally I have a set of old school 14x7 webs I got used for $100 putting a fresh pair of victoracers on for the autocross season havn't got them yet but I am gonna guess my mounted wheel and tire will weigh less than you lightweight 16, dunno what the circumfrence of your tire or mine yet for that matter yet, but the larger diameter offer a higher speed at a particular rpm while a smaller circumfrence will be slower at the same rpm with more effective torque, also the wider the tire the more air it has to break through, pete brock had some interesting insights in the current sportz mag, my point is that that is big bux, nt cheap, it's your car and your money, I am just pointing out that if you are looking at $220 each for wheels you are not cheap

I have a 71 240z, it wouldn't start found no spark, then found no power to coil? so I hooked up a hot lead to the positive side of coil startd and ran fine, now nothing else works! no horn, lights, guages nothing, all fuses are good and have power something somewhere got blown or disconnected, anywhere I can look for online wiring diagrams ? anyone know what I blew and where ? I still have the old dasun ls so none of the wiring has been monkeyed other than the hot wire I ran to get it startd, any ideas ?

your not cheap if your looking at that kind of money ! you could have 16x7 panasports or revolutions for that kind of money and would look better IMHO

but now that i think of it I am switching to a 280 tach because the 240 is dead and I happen to have a 280 sitting around, and I also have an MSD 6A sitting on a shelf I was gonna use for another project so I think I can handle it now, any warning before I do this ?

would a grant hub kit work ? they are like $15 new from autozone ? is the momo wheel worth paying all that extra to make it work ?

ok, another stupid question for you L6 guru's, my L24 has a points distributor (of course) and I have an electrinic L28 dist, to wire it I would need to hook one lead to the negetive side of the coil and the other to the wire that is currently hooked to the negetive side of dist. right ? am I missing something ?

as far as I know datsn never put a sunroof in any of the first generation z-cars, so I'd say it's aftermarket, that being the case you can just go to your local auto customizer and have them put in a new sunroof when your ready for it, many options from $150 - $500 but I would suggest welding a new roof on it, the curve of the datsun roof flattens with the sunroof and tkes away from the lines that datsun intended for us to see