evildky

thanks for the responce guy's, mat, I didn't think the search function would do me a lot of good on the starlet, just thought I'd get some insight from some of the experts around here that are more familiar with all toyota products than I am, I did a bit of research and found that it is not going to be practical for my 2.3t powered starlet, the corolla AE and sr5 axles have priven impossible to find in my area thus far, might just go for a narrowed 8.8

ok this won't be going on my z-car but this forum has a broad knowledge base so, does anyone know anything about the Independant rear suspension on a first or second gen supra ? do any or all of them have LSD ? I am looking for an independant set up for my starlet, it currently has a multilink solid axle with coil springs, anyone have ideas for me ? advice ?

the shocks limit hav fast the spring will allow the given corner of a car to travels up and down, the spring is loaded with the weight of the vehicle, as you drive more or less weight is applied to each corner, when you compress a spring it's reaction is to spring back, the shocks/struts limit how fast they return to their origional shape and keep them from bouncing for 10 minustes after every bump

84-85 na wheels will fit the rear with 225/55r15 tires no problem, the fronts will hit the springs unless you have coil overs

if it's an early 71 with verticle lines on the rear window, the front output of the master cylinder will have a "F" stamped on the side of it and the rear will have an "R" you'll have to lift the inspection lid and look real hard to see them, this is how the early 70-71 original masters are, makes them different from all the rest

what oil are you running on your su's ? a thinner oil will let then move more freely, your's might be kinda stiff and a shot of wd 40 and moving them a bit might help as well, also be sure your fuel lines at the bottom of the fuel bowls flows well, I've found the sediment will clog the bottom not letting gas out so it'll barely run, hope some of this helps

I've been trying to decide on paint for my 240 for some time now, I think I'm gonna steal your idea and replicate the bre paint scheme, only using the factory origional red in place of the grand prix red used by bre, mine won't be an exact replica but close enough for those who remember them to know what I am doing

and oh yeah some of the 280's (not sure if all but 77-78 for sure) came with r200 thats the bar and lower tie pieces you need, not sure how it bolts into a 280zx but the 300zx has a radically different mounting system

don't forget when swapping an r200 into any non r200 car you also need the lower tie bar that links the lower control arms to each other, the early unit is flat and won't fit around the diff cover, also the pinion snubber and drive shaft are issues on early cars

I recall hearing the max had a 4.11 or maybe a bit higher, not sure if the auto/stick had different ratio's but I'd say it's worth snagging at the right price and count your teeth or decode the stamps on the housing

the third pulley was likely for an add on A/C system, that said you can remove it without and problems, I am thinking the bolts are needed to retain the other 2 pulley's I could be wron, just pull the one off and see if the others appear to need the bolts, learn by doing

wow I must have gotten the only one in the world, no-one has ever heard of this setup ?

unless your bent on keeping it all origional I'd replace the trans, you can pick up used pieces for a song, I got a spare for $20 at that price I don't mind grinding gears when I race, also might be a good excuse to pick up a 280zx 5 speed ?

I don't think the 84-87's got the lsd, easy enough to tell just look at the diff cover, if it's not finned then prolly not lsd, if you can get lsd units for $50 you can sell them here for a profit, happy hunting

ok, I got a wierd one, I got a coilover set up with shortened housings from a guy and they do not apear to be normal sectioning job, the rears are cut down to 15-3/4 measured form inside- 13-1/2 measured from the shoulder, the catrrige is a tokiko bz3038 which is application for a 280zx front strut, ever heard of doing this one ? pro's... con's ? the fronts are cut down to 12-1/2 measured rom the inside, and 11-3/4 measured from the shoulder, the cartrige had rubbed and I can not make out the part number only that it says pro drag, this set supposedly came from an old IT car, anyone have a clue what app these are for ? should I keep these or just section my old housings ?

Arizonazcar.com has one listed for sale on their websit including trans for $500, it's under the other stuff section at the bottom of their site

ok I have a 71240z still stock everything, headlings and hord didn't work along with a few other things, got them working now my alternater puts out 52 volts constant, I replaced the alt and reg still having same problem, obviously something I did just can't figure out what ? Ideas ?

the lower control arm is the same from the 240 to the 280 but the forward mount is not there on the 240, I have seen 240's with what appeared to be a factory reverse mounting position on the L shaped pieces that bolt to the rear of the controll arms

well as I understand it their promary function is to allow air to escape the passanger compartment when you close the doors with the windows up, try taping them and closing your door with the windows up, if you floor pans are shot it should be ok one natural alternative is to install a hatch from a 240 as they had the vents on the hatch and none on the rear sail panels

yes the 84-89 300zx turbo's came with a BG T-5 and the non turbo cars did not, and no it will not bolt up to the L series engine although it has a removeable bellhousing and I guess you could fab something to adapt it ?

it will not leak without the metal trim, it is purely cosmetic, it was the 70's everyone else had chrome window trim, they thought they had to have it too

but as I understood it it was nissan making four cylinders on licence for mercedes, then nissan made the datsun L series 4 cylinder engines based very heavily on the mercedes engines, the L6 was then based on the L4