evildky

I second the motion, nitrous is fun! just do not get greedy, a 60shot dry or a bit larger with the wet should be safe, I got greedy, I popped a motor, learn from my mistake, I ran an 80 shot on my old civic..... oops

http://www.zcarparts.com motorsports website, they have a few headers and full exhaust systems at prices that are hard to beat, they also have the cams, as for additional power if you rebuild, flat top pistons, the 280 came with dish pistons offering an anemic 8.29:1 comp ratio, flat tops will get you up to 9.82:1 also head gaskets in varying thickness will adjust comp ratio a bit more, ,any over bore will up the comp ratio, and of course there is the intake MAF conversion or carbs, oversized injectors, increased fuel pressure, you could do a stroker or a turbo, just depends on what direction you want to take with it

ok I was really wanting to go with an RB swap but kinda pricey and would take me a year to scrape up the cash, I just found a grand nat turbo motor complete but in peices, older guy had all the machine work done was gonna be a track car but had some health issues not just wants to get rid of it for $1000, is this a deal or should I try to get him down more ? or should I hold out for the rb ?

you can get a howe 7/8 master unit from summit for like $40 pop the circlip and put the Z pushrod through the washer re-install circlip and it bolts right up

lets not forget Pete Brock of BRE fame actually designed the daytona coupe while working for carol shelby, and I must say that ket does not do justice for the origional

place the 2 strut housings side by side before you put it in, you'll notice the 280 housing is taller so even at the same ride height you'd be preloading the strut, and you'll note that the spring perch is located a coupla inches higher than the on the 240 piece

the rear control arms are identical as far as I can tell the 240 arms even have provision for the sway bar, the strut tube is different as well as the upper strut mount you'll want to keep those as 240 parts unless you want to jack up the rear of your car by about 4 inches, and the halfshaft u-joints will bind thith the arms fully extended, not a problem up less you have your rear up off the ground

if the t-tops are locked ..no if they are not locked then just slide the release slider and pull the handle, if they are locked then I wouldn't know, I quit locking mine a long time ago and always had my keys so it wasn't an issue

I have not had any problems yet, the car is not a daily driver, it was in the Grassroots Motorsports $2003 challange and can even be seen in the latest issue of their mag, although it was slow and the carbs decided they were against me, the only leakage I get is from my leaking front diff seal when I leave the rear end up on jack stands for a while, the lsd works find and the shafts have such a limited range of motion they have yet to move out that I could tell, even if they did there is only so much room to move, it's been down the drag strip at Gainesville as well as an autocross held in their drivers training mini road course, as well as 4 local autocross events, like I said might not be the right way but it worked and it was cheap

that washer in the middle is what prevents you from using standard output chafts, I know lot of people will cringe when I say this but I am running a viscous unit in my 71, I cut about a 1/4 inch off of one of one of the output shafts, there are no c'clips holding my output shafts in place just the halfshafts, it launches great when dragging and gives nice throttle steer when autocrossing, cutting down a shaft might not be the best way but it works, and I only paid $100 for mone, hope you got a deal to make it worth the extra effort

I have not yet done either of these swaps I am saving for the RB and learnign in the meantime, one little note with the Chevy LS1 you get "chevy reliability" which is all fine and good for a Chevy but from a datsun that seems like a low standard sorry just had to say it

someone has too much time, talent and money, I could use more of each

an old trick that use more often than the tool designed to get the clip out of those things is a red rag, sometimes the clip gets put in in both directions so you'll have to try from both ends but, get a reletively thin rag, like a red mechanic's rag (they litter the floor in my garage) grap 2 corners streight across from each other and slide the middle under the crank handle base right up against the door panel and drag it upward at a 45 degree angle, the idea is to catch the rag on one of the tips of the retainer and pull the little bugger out, do this slowly and smoothly so as not to launch the clip 3 blocks away or at least to where it will not be found, good luck

84-85 N/A came with 4 lugs, right bolt circle(4x4.5) but like a +30mm offset

iron cross wheels came in both 14" and 15" the Z31 wheels will fit fine on the rear, they are wider with a bit of positive offset so up front will fit if you have coilovers, if not then the fronts will not fit

check your taps, standars taps are measured in diameter and NPT taps are measures in radius so a 1/8 NPT is about 1/4 in diameter and a 1/4 NPT is about 1/2 in diameter I suspect you are looking at standard taps

sorry I have no help to offer, just kinda funny, I just read your post on GRM

I am picking up a free 280zx N/A tomorrow, no papers, not running, 4 wheel disks, iron cross wheels, 5 speed,CV shafts, what else should I yank off before crushing the rusted remains ?

I am planning on doing that exact swap into my 71 240z, about 100 lbs lighter than the datsun motor and 190hp stock, I will be aiming for about 300hp, the problem is in mounting it, the motormounts for the 2.3 are right in the way of the steering column, I have cut and rotated my upper intake but need the lower alt bracket to make the final fit, I'll post pic's if I ever get done

I would suggest you primer the fiberglass pieces after prepping them with a scotchbrite pad, some paints will need to have the same color of primer or the finished color or look a bit off, car looks great, be sure you trial fit all your fiberglass parts before you start laying paint, you don't want to get done only to discover you need to reshape a bonding edge, good job pot the finished product for us when you get there

I saw a dodge omni run 11's! with an open diff even ! built l28et, stand alone managment, big turbo, good tires and a LSD should get him in the neighborhood this was meant to be under : building a real fast turbo street racer Z-car for under 6K!? I hit the worg button, I am a dork

if you want the true suround your gonna need either a new source unit of a very expensive signal processor, I recogmend looking at JVC units for the price you can't beet them, also you will be getting more and cleaner signal to your amps, havn't been into big booming systems for a coupla years, I found out they do not make my car any faster

one question though, I assume you cut out the metal before laying the glass quarters in place, do you have any pic's of the process before it was on and smoothe, just trying to prepair myself, never did any glass work before, if only I could weld them on

actually 84-89 =Z31 90-96 =Z32 prolly just production date confusion

reminds me of a gifit I got, some buds stole and gave to me one of those comercial fire extinguishers that mounts on the wall, metal case glass panel, and even the bar on a chain to break glass with, after I cought my fishtank on fire...don't ask