evildky

Nitrous is fun, I have not had it on my Z but had it on my old honda, if you follow the manufcturers instruction and don't get greedy you should be ok, I think 80 or 90 shot would be the most you could throw at the L28ET safely without special modifications, and yes it looks like that kit comes with 6 wet foggers, which i hear is the only way to run NO2 on the L28ET

if your gonna ditch the bumpers anyhow, look at the 280 it does not have the indention in the rear quarter for the rear bumper as the 240 does, so you'll have a cleaner line, also the front fog lights are located in the grill so there is less attention to the valance where the lights reside in the 240, and the weight difference is only like 400lbs? and most of that is the bumpers, A/C and injection, your gonna add less wieght to a 280 with the turbo swap than you would to a 240 becuace the 280 already had the heavy injection intake and wiring in it, and if you get a good look at the bare body's you'll see that the 280 was built a bit better, either should take the 300 without any problems as long as you get a solid carand your not a hardcore drag racer, the real factor is whats more available and affordable in your area ? also the 280 is a bit younger and therfore has less years of weather exposure and less likely to be rusted, but every car gets treated different so you never know, also for the money the L28ET is a super cheap swap, I have a $1000 240 with the engine from a wrecked $350 280ZXT

I have some dielectric grease and I'll try it but, I think it has something to do with the boost, be it the wastgate or turbo or whatever else, because it happens at the transition from 0 manifold pressure to boost, runs fine with vacume, but ones manifold pressure reaches zero it does not want to go into the boost zone, and it'll sputter and surge to about 5 psi then kinda die only to surge back up to 5 psi my logic is that the ecu dos not know if the manifold is under vacume or boost, there is no electrical sensor to tell ti wat the manifold sees, I am running the stock ZX fuel pump wired via a relay, and a MSD boost referenced fuel pressure regulator<-installed brand new a coupla weeks ago, I still have the old FPR si I can try switching it back just to solidly eliminate it as the source of the problem but I really appreciate the imput, just need fresh ideas to keep me thinking, I stare at a problem sometimes till it drives me nuts

aw C'mon someone has to have some clue ? I am stumpped seems to be one problem after another I am tempted to fix it sell it and get a TT

ok, I have a 71 with an 82 L28ET swapped in, I am using fuel lines from a 78 and have fuel supply coming from the drain hole, so it should get plenty of gas, the car was running fine the other day, it ran a 13.6 at Gainesville a coupla weeks ago, now all of a sudden it runs like crap, the problem ocours at the transition from vacume to boost, only when the engine is loaded, idles and rev's fine, but when I start to accelerate even slowly, I can watch the guage slowly loose vacume and just when it gets to zero it'll start bucking and dying when it bucks the boost goes up to around 5psi then it kinda dies and once it hits zero it'll surge again, I have tried bypassing the fuel pressure reg(just pulled and pluggged the vac line going to it), made no difference I thing my O2 sensor is going casue my A/F guage alwasy shows a bit to the lean side and it just started going down till it fell off to no reading at all, and with 55psi of fuel I doubt it's lean, and the exhaust smells rich what am I missing? could a bad O2 casue this ?

you did not specify what block you had, some had flat tops and some had dishtop pistons, with an N42 head you prolly have dishtops, I don't know much about S/C's but I'd think you can boost your engine as it is but you could handle more boost with lower compression and a P90 head

or you could go get an oil cooler complete from a zxt with an wuto tranny, they came with oil coolers, and if you want to plumb and mount the cooler somewhere special or use a differetn cooler, you can use the adapter that bolt to the block with the lines coming out, and pull the banjo bolts and use an adapters thats whet I did. my cooler now resides on my passanger side fenderwell, I mainly did this because one of my cooler lines took the threads with it when I removed it from my doner car, also you can run the standard L6 oil filter which is larger for a bit more oil capacity, srews right onto the adapter

I know of no way to test them, I was suspecting the ignitor, a local bud with an 82 zxt said the dist was kinda a typical problem, he brought over a coupla dist's and ignitor's we replaced the ignitor, and nothing happened, so we went to the dist, fired right up, if you can find one cheap or borrow one it's worth a try one thing I did notice when replacing it was with the key in and in the run position, pull the dist out and rotate the rotor button, might weant to disconnect the coil first, but you can hear the injectors click as you rotate the rotor button, the old dist wasn't making anything click, so that might be a way to test it ?

just to update everyone, it turned out to be the distributor, ther has to be an easy way to test these instead of replacing parts till it works

a lil different from other no spark posts, my car was running great, drove it all day yesterday, (it's a 240 with the L28ET) last night I added an Adjustable FRP, it was running awsome, the increased fuel pressure really helped with the off idle hesitation I was getting, anyhow, I went for a lil test run late last night, and it sputtered and died, I thought I was rich, even though my A/F guage shows a bit lean, plugs were fuel fouled, cleaned replaced still would not run, I have no spark, I checked for positive at the coil and it is hot, not only that but I noticed that the coil shows hot on both poles with the key in the run position, is this right ? could I have killed my ignitor ? I was thinking of trying to install my MSD box, is the trigger wire from the ECU a pulse ground ? so maybe I could hook it up to the white on the msd box ? I am pulling my hair out any help appreeciated

I just swapped the L28ET into my car got it running and the fuel replumbed ready for it's test run, and the clutch pedal felt soft ( I did not remove the tranny or the slave cylinder) I tried to put it in gear and it started grinding, the pedal still soft I pumped it a few times and the pedal got real hard, as in I try pressing it and the pedal starts to twist under the force, I check the fluid and it's dry? I topped it off went to the pedal still rock hard, this sound like a bad master ? I have never has anything like this happen in a master before ?

if you pull the filter off the intake on your afm, you should see a closed flap (not when running) that you can push with your finger if so your afm is in right, as for the alt, I just did the same swap and used my 240 alt, the 240 has an external regulator on the fenderwell, that is not used if you converst to the zx internally regulated alt

where did you find that ? I looked and looked for that, of course now I need to find a haynes manual

where did you find that ? I looked and looked for that, of course now I need to find a haynes manual

I just droipped a L28ET into my 71 last night, I'm not having much luck with wiring info, seems everyone runs afteramrket standalones

yup I had a vac advance on the points dist, tried it at all val, no vac, and timed vac, did the same with the electronic unit, no change

lol, I have no air filter, just the carb's and the backing plate, the cover just gets in the way when working on it, any other ideas ? I am fresh out and frustrated as hell

no the 6t is the model for trucks, it cames with the vibration feet, other than that it's like the 6A

I have driven myself nuts trying to figure this out, I have a 71 240z origional engine, it bogs down once it gets good and warmed up, not overheating just at normal operating temp, I can be tooling along or racing, reving 5000 in second, and it just starts to bog, I shift to third and it bogs at 3500 rpm, speed seems to be the limiter ? I have replaced the points dist with an electronic unit from a 78 and added an aftermarket coil and an MSD 6T, I replaced the factory SU's with a set I got from a totaled IT car, the problem remains, I replaced the fuel pump with a holly red and a FPR, the problem persists, I adjusted the valves it still does it ? I am banging my head, not likely to have 2 sets of bad carbs, not likely to have 2 bad distributor, I am out of stuff to replace, any ideas?

I have torn down 2 sets with no problem but my 71 decided not to come out, I tried the 13 lb slide hammer more rust penetrant than you can shake a stick at and even heating with a torch, the thing that finally got them out was the port-a-ram, you have to be carefull not to damage the top of the housing but with a good sized shoe on the ram I finally got it

3k for the front clip !? can anyone get this kind of a deal or is it just for wasting your time ? and yeah be sure to post your used gear here first

Nissan motorsports is different from nismo, as far as I know they are not creating any new nismo parts for the older Z's, check this linkhttp://www.courtesyparts.com/nms/s30/index.html, from courtesey, I have delt with them they are hinest and offer discounts to Z club members local or not and if you go to their site you can click the link to their nismo parts as well

not a fan of body kits but that blue one minus some of the vents is tighter than gnat booty

ok, seeing that car actually hurt my feelings

check for info on z31.com, I believe the 89 Z31 in japan came with the vg30dett, so it'll go but the wiring is gonna be the issue, also the jap z31 had th zr200 which was powered by an rb20det, so from there the rb26dett shouldn't be any more dificult, the zr200 donates the motor mounts and oil pan needed for the s30 swap, but it isn't ideal engine placement on an z30