evildky

what parts are you needing? when I had my Z31 all my odd and end interior stuff I was able to locate in junkyards and in the classifieds over at z31.com, as for performance parts I got half my suspension from the dealer (Nissan Motorsport special order) the other half from strano parts, some stuff from MSA, and tons of replacement parts from my local chain and import specialists parts stores

you might want to check the stickies down in the turbo forum, and I believe we have a few in the 430 whp range with the stock manifold

thanks again for all the help, I feel about half past stupid, it's the first I'v seem one go like this as well, bad thing is when the problem started accouring it was only at zero manifold pressure, I had no way of tracking it till it got so bad it would do it while free reving in neutral and I could actually see the guage, I am thinking of adding an in cab fuel pressure guage to help diagnose any future problems quicker, although another fuel pressure problem is not too likely with a new pump, got the big fat msd pump

OK, so now I am gonna tell you all the solution and show just how stupid I am, the problem got worse happeneing at lower rev's with more vacume, it got so bad it was not allowing me to free rev it was shoving up with no load, once it got this bad I was able to see that when it bogs, my fuel pressure drops to nothing then kicks back up the fuel pump I guess was sorta maxing out and shutting down when the reg saw a loss of vacume causing the fuel pressure to rise, I guess it over loaded the pump and it shut down, I replaced the pump with a new aftermarket unit I had planned to install before al the drama, problem solved, thanks for all the help guy's although I now fel like an idiot

the 87-87 T-bird Turbocoupe also came with the bigger afm and injectors, so not as rare as you might think, problem is you only get 4 in a set

denso plugs, just the stock replacemnts, gapped to factory spec, coil, cap and rotor all have been replaced with new pieces, the plugs all look fine

the wasteagte looks fine, I had the down pipe off, used a little mirror to peak in and see the disk it looks fine the arm swings and closes just fine, covers the hole like it's supposed to, as for vac leak, I used a can and a half of carb/choke cleaner spraying everything with mass amounts, no leaks found

I am geting no boost at all, none! also the wastegate actuator arm is fine it's the bracket that was a little bent, prolly from me wrenching on the car, and I have wired the wastegate closed same effect, you can hear it winding but it will not boost, it gets a bit short of zero pressure like maybe 5hg vac and it just kinda dies for a minute

and I am still running the jpipe, and the pressure relief valve on the manifold seems to seal just fine, remember that the problem occours at zero manifold pressure, actually now it seems to show up before I hit zero and the plug wires are Nissan Motorsport plugs about 6 months old and have got aybe 500 miles on them

the turbo seems to check out, I pulled the downpipe and the intake tube, all the blades seem to be in good working order, there is no play at all on the exhaust side, the intake side has a barely detectable amout of movement, the wastegate actuator seems to work when I blow compressed air through it, it pops open the closes, the bracket seems to have been bent a tough, and the wastegate door was not quite closes, I prolly bent it working on it, the disk on the inside of the turbo that covers the wastegate hole seems to be fine, the swingarm the moves it seems to be fine, I am not burning aly oil ot making any smoke, seems pretty tighht for a junkyard motor the oil hovever does seem to smell of gas(not real strong, just a bit), I was thinking perhaps when it bogs and will not boost that the spark is cutting off for some reason, allowing unburnt gas to seep past the rings, my plugs look fine, no fouling or anything like that what else could cause this, the electrical short seems the most likely solution, but seems quite dificult to diagnose, I wish I could locate another harness, SDS is sounding better all the time but wiring up the optical dist is a bit daunting, and then SDS is not a cheap solution and I am already broke from replacing everything else

ok real quick, v8dats, yes it's under load, I can free rev all day with no issues at all I removed the down pipe and checked the internals, the turbo seems fine, no resistance, no free play at all on the exhaust side, just a little barely detectible movement on the intake side (nowhere near enough to rub) well if I could find another turbo harness I'd switch it, problem is these are rarebirds here in the rust belt, they all rusted in half and had thier remains crushed years ago, took me forever to find a doner the thing that troubles me about the turbo is that with the wastegate cracked and with the wastegate corrected the car behaved in the same manor I can totally see it being an electrical problem, I can be in second gear, slowly accelerating get up to around zero and it's just a nothing, I'l be at around 2500rpm and it's just dead silence, the tach holds position, there is no exhaust noise for that moment no anything, no engine braking that you'd expect with a dead car just nothing, it's as if someone hit the pause button anyone know where I can pick up another harness cheap? replacing all these parts is getting expensive!

well, the wastegate bracket was a little bent, I corrected it and no change, I wired the wastgate open and it has the same problem but now at much lower rpm, now it cuts out at about 15-10psi vacume I tripped the actuator with compredded air, it seems to pop out and return fine, but the wastgate arm in the position of about 3/16 out and being completely shut seemed to have the same result, car dies at around zero manifold pressure so I have a bad turbo or is it the wastegate ? could it be that the wastegate is just not sealing all the way up ? and maybe it needs a new flap? or is the tubo simply not generating enough boost?

ok, I have replaced just about everything, I have replaced, the ECU, distributor, TPS, AFM it is still rtefusing to boost, just as manifold pressure reached zero, it just kinda dies, for a split second there is just nothing, then it'll surge to maybe 2 lbs just to die back to zero and do it again, I have run out of stuff to replace, I even tried disconnecting the vac/boost line going to my wastegate, still won't boost !? I have tightened every hose on the car I can detect no leaks, I am about to try getting a junkyard toubo and try replacing that, any ideas ? help me out please !? I have found a coupla of similar post's but neither of which seems to heve been resolved, Help !

I have a bud that has a tig and is experienced with aluminum, I plan to chop that little wing off mine and have him weld the hole shut, I wonder what a small welding shop would charge you ? you don't want to have a bud try to weld it only to have it leak later

I have cleaned every connector, I have a new afm on the way, and I already have a spare ecu I will try swapping them next, the wire harness should be fine, it came out looking good, and I have not done anything to it other than the necesarry mods as for the fuel presure, I was reading lean at idle and when running down the strip I never even looked at it, I need to move it to the A piller so I can see it better, I just started turning it up till the throttle tip in seemd eager with no hesitation, same set up I made my 13.6 pass with also the fuel rail and intake will be replaced soon, once the spare intake arives I'll be shaving it of all the useless crap, and I made a billit fuel rail that I plan to install at the same time, I guess I just keep replacing parts till it works ?

I am pretty sure you can remove both of those, I am waiting on my spare to arive to do the same thing, if you do a search on intakes there are pic's of cleaned manifold that do not have those, also, you plan on plugging the egr right ?

I have tightened every hose and dohickey on the intake as well as the j pipe at both ends, if there is a boost leak I can't find it, I might try changing the fuel pump as I have a new msd sitting in my garage I planned on adding later any how, as for the 13.6 my car is an early 71 so it was one of the lightest cars to start with, the interior is gutted, just a dash and 2 corbeua seats, no heatercore blower fan or any thing like that, I am guessing I weigh around 2200lbs? I turned the boost up to 8 psi with a bleedoff style boost controller, am using an MSD boost referenced FPR #2222 (which I got from summit about the same cost as overboost) at 55psi (you have to remove the locknut to get it up that high) and a L24 damper, other than that it's a 180K junkyard motor, oh yeah, 2.5 crush bent exhaust no muffler that pass was made with drag radials, that run had a 2.1 sec 60 footer, I was making 1.9 earlier that morning, with drag slicks and the origional L24 it pulled a 1.6 60 footer last year, but the et was like 15.9 Look for my car in the august issue of Grassroots Motorsports Magazine, it was in the challange (for the second time), it's primer grey, #13

it took me a while to get time to mess with the car, I cleaned everything the other day and it did seem to help, I just went up the road a bit and it did build boost so I out it back up, tried it again today and it is back to the same problem, I cleaned the contacts and added some die electric grease, seemed to help some it would get a little boost then surge, found my hose on the turbo was a bit loose, tightened it took it out and it was surging at zero manifold pressure again, I tightened everything up, adjusted the afm, still bogging, so I disconnected the knock sensor still does it, checked the turbo for play or resistance, felt ok to me, this thing is driving me nuts one thing I noticed it that when cold my A/F meter reads iseal, once warmed it shows lean? and it seems to behave much better when cold but still acts up, just gets worse with the engine warmed up, I am really wanting an SDS system, if only I could afford it

congrats on getting your car going, I remember how excited I was, my only mistake was grounding the tach wire and frying my coil...oops as for your dist errors, how did you get it in 180 off ? it onlly goes in 1 way ? and the cap only fits one way ? you get the wires on the cap wrong ? as for scary fast, I am sure it won't take you long till you need to be faster, boost is addictive My name is Dave and I am a boostaholic.......

I have the turbo swap on my 240 with stock brakes with hawk pads, I autocross regularly, the brakes work fine but when co driving I can see my brake fluid rise, I need to assl some heat shielding to the lines, if you have shielding you'll be fine if not get some shields or make them

I also have the 280 full suspension under my 240, it jacks the rear way up, using the upper "hat" from the 240 lowers it about an inch but thats still way hight, it appears that the 280 mounts are physically higher on the car, I am switching back to the 240 suspension when ever I get around to cleaning and painting the 240 housings

call tokiko, I bought a set of strut cartiiges for my Z31 years ago, and the fronts were missing the top spacers, they shipped them out to me next day air, really fast friendly customer service, you might not want to tell them you threw them away but they might give them to you anyhow

I have a pair of coubeau forza's they touch the door ( I have no door panels) in my driving position, I am only 5'-6", slid all the way back the clean the interior quarter quite well, my rpoblem is that I am short with long arms, so they suck, my legs barely reach with the seat all the way up and my arms are too bent up ( I could stear with my elbow's with my 5 point on) if it tip the seat back by putting spacers in front the lump on the front of the seat lifts my legs to the point that they do not reach so be weary of your proportions

Morgan with Z31 and Sport Z made 400 hp with a stock motor using a stand alone management system, upgraded turbo, bumpy cam, and basic turbo mods, he then popped the motor...oops

Nitrous is fun, I have not had it on my Z but had it on my old honda, if you follow the manufcturers instruction and don't get greedy you should be ok, I think 80 or 90 shot would be the most you could throw at the L28ET safely without special modifications, and yes it looks like that kit comes with 6 wet foggers, which i hear is the only way to run NO2 on the L28ET