HowlerMonkey

Anyone know the rod bolt size of the LD28? I'm wondering if any of the arp rod bolt offerings for L engines will fit.

the cap and rod should have marks from where the tang on the original bearing was. I match them up if the engine has never been rebuilt before.

boing

I know this is an old thread but I've searched and can not find any mention of the size of the LD28 rod bolts. I will be ordering some arp bolts but not sure if they are 8mm or 9mm. I'm trying to finish my infiniti m30 with ld28 and turbo project.

We're going to use them on a twin turbo Z06 build simply because there is no room for anything else

You could run it on e85 but would need some ecu changes to go with the bigger injectors.

Isn't the mn47 a high quench head when used with flattops? If so, it's possible the mechanical combination will work but, as someone else said, a cam change is a good idea and it's possible that the factory timing curve will be too intense making a good working egr system mandatory for highway cruising.

Same boat here.... At some point, I will do a google search with the name/number of a few helmets and maybe add words like "slow" "strobe"....etc. and see if there are complaints of it being too slow. One thing to make sure is that any auto-darkening helmet has a true battery and not a capacitor or welding in a dark area will guarantee bright flashes before the helmet clamps down.

Elbow AND wastegate housing are different. It is possible that the Z31 elbow will fit but you would need a far longer downpipe since the elbow terminates at least 5 inches higher than the 280zx elbow. If you still have the original turbo, reclock the cold side or the new turbo to match the old one, and either remove the exhaust housing with wastegate housing and even elbow still attached before clocking it properly and fitting it to the center housing of the 300zx turbo. Sadly, you will end up with difficult bolts and it is easy to ruin the exhaust turbine when removing exhaust snail so it's not going to be fun whatever path you choose.........unless you can get away with reclocking cold side and just use a taller downpipe to fit the shorter 300zx elbow (which I cannot confirm will clear the steering shaft).....maybe someone else can.

I'm kind of partial to heavier flywheels.....unless this is a dedicated road racing car. After years of running a light flywheel on my 13-b RX-2 with J-ports, finances caused me to go back to the stocker for a bit and it ended up being the perfect combination such that it allowed me to "store" more energy which was needed to launch the car. Once hooked up, the extra mass actually helped the car from breaking traction in second gear once it came on really hard because it help resist the engine running away rapidly if traction wasn't perfect.

To fit the olds 455 into a ventura, you have to relinquish the evaporator as it will hit the head. It's close enough with the 262-403 but the higher deck height causes issues. It also causes issues on the 1979 and later cars for the same reason. I had one in a 1969 ss396 chevelle with mickey thompson valve covers and a torker 455 manifold painted factory colors on "F heads" (no heat riser) and that car was a monster beast. Best factory versions were actually out of the old toronados.....not sure why but they spec. more hp than almost any other olds 455. One thing to keep in mind is that engine mounts and header/exhaust manifold angle is different between the 455 and the rest of the olds engines which might cause issues if not paid attention to.

I got a 1/4 inch piece of steel plate, burned a hole with a torch to slightly smaller than needed, drilled the bolt holes, and then touched up the large burnt hole to match the gasket. Then I used a bench grinder to do the final shaping.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?D=ishino&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Main&N=1684+4294962122+11381&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntt=ishino

Sweet...... This is important information for anybody who does highway driving. And your results were obtained with the turbo being cooled by coolant. This is good news.

I've actually got two builds going on. One is a LD28 with turbo and the other is only in the beginning stages but it is a flex fuel L28et.

Drying paint cooled the block causing condensation from the slight temperature difference?

The bass component of even a very muffled L28 at idle will set off car alarms as it idles past. I like running old engines on modern engine management systems and the challenge of laying down emissions numbers that pass regulations set for cars made decades after the L engine stopped being made. The L28 with a high quench head and flattops is perfect for that when run with an ecu that has more modern actuation of egr and timing. Of course, I just bought a ld28 which will be turbo'd for my mega mile per gallon project so emissions are out the window for now.

I leave everything else alone and spin the oil pump/distributor shaft 180 degrees.

The original poster still needs to check whether his head has hydraulic lifters or not.

The 1981 sensor does output the same signal. The way nissan gets 180 pulses from a 90 tooth wheel is that the sensor has three "poles" with one ending 3 pulses per crank revolution and it uses two others that are in parallel to the same signal lines. The other two poles are spaced 1/2 tooth relative to each other which nets 180 pulses per crankshaft revolution. It works great with any 280zx turbo ecu but won't work and can't be modded to work properly with the 300zx ecu though it should run the 300zx ecu badly because the sensor can not output the cylinder 1 identification pulse.

l28et only uses two wires for the closed throttle switch. One is the center pin and the other can be figured out by checking which pin has continuity with the center pin when the throttle is fully closed. If none do, then tps needs adjustment or is bad.

Arsey? review your post history. square ports, hydraulic lifters, no liners, cylinder head temp sensor hole. I compared it to 4 other p90a heads we had and could find no difference. Maybe the head is a casting they used to correct the flashing found in the coolant passages of earlier heads. If the head is still around, then creationz in reston, va had it or Brian downey might remember putting it on a car some years ago. http://www.facebook.com/pages/Auto-Expectations/10150113583150347

I seem to remember that 1984 4n71b are L4n71b meaning they are not electronic.

There are at least 5 r200 pinion flanges. a 1 year old thread has a couple of pictures here somewhere 1. round flange for r180 with small bolt pattern found on Z cars, maxima, 510, 710, 810. 2. round flange for r200 with small bolt pattern....found on some 280zx and 200sx turbos. 3. rectanglar flange for r200 ....found on 280zx turbo. 4. round flange for r200 with larger bolt pattern than flanges 1 and 2..... found on z31 300zx. 5. round flange for r200 with larger bolt pattern than flanges 1 and 2 with abs tone wheel teeth and around .5 to .75 longer....found on infiniti m30. There are probably a couple more that fit the shortnose r200s in 240sx, z32, j30, and Q45.

When I compared the p99 to a p90a hydraulic lifter head, I could find no difference at all. Yes, I was looking close enough. When you consider I've worked on thousands of Z-cars, it is possible I've seen something tony has not.