HowlerMonkey

Never seen a ridge either..........just something that comes off with mild rubbing and carb cleaner.

My current engine has reused the rod and head bolts through 3 different configuration changes and engine installations in multiple cars for about 10 years. That doesn't mean someone else won't have a rod bolt break 1 week after replacing rod bearings but reusing the bolts on his pristine 1983 ZX with 83k miles on the clock. I've also seen someone actually put 65 foot pounds on the rod bearings and only stopped because the 9th bolt he torqued started stretching and he checked to find he was using the wrong torque. For a LD28, replacing rod bolts with ARP is a no brainer as well as a high HP or high RPM driven car.

1986....Washington DC......constitution avenue at rush hour. Car: mazda RX-5 cosmo. Pulling out of the library of congress, throttle goes to floor...no acceleration.......pull over halfway on crosswalk. Throttle cable is snapped. Bummed out.........weedeater is on reclined passenger seat.... Unwind the trimmer line, disconnect old throttle cable with diagonal cutters and attach trimmer line to throttle linkage and route cable from carb over the engine and around the tall oil filler tube for 90 degrees to get it pointed at the hole in the firewall. Then attach to pedal and drive away just as police shows up. Two weeks later....same spot.....transistor fired fuel pump no longer works but does pulse a single time per being energized. Yank off door sill on passenger side, find fuel pump wire, cut and extend it so I end up with two wires with bare ends on passenger seat close to console. Tape one wire to the seat and tap other wire's bare end to it repeatedly as you drive away.

It was a LSA cadillac CTS-v with a V650 hennessey kit. The owner somehow got it to downshift (automatic) into a gear that should normally be off limits due to the rpm at the time. I'm not sure if they modified the transmission shift algorithms but most all stock algorithms usually don't allow a shift that would put the engine in an overrev situation.

I just pulled a cts-v LSA engine and it had four bent pushrods and two bent connecting rods. The car had an automatic transmission.

I routinely see Lexus LS400s with over 200k miles and only one or two valve lash settings are slightly out of adjustment..............after never having been adjusted for the life of the car. They are not hydraulic.

Sweet!!!

The turbo does not whine at idle on the L28et. I've run them with straight pipes but I really like the sound from running the big VG30et cat without a muffler........as long as the car is turbo.

M30 has a different connector. It does run the L28ET nicely in my M30 after customizing the M30 harness.

Sweet.........was wondering about that.

If the car had an oil cooler, then the ball is in the adapter housing and a small freeze plug is in the block. I'm not sure if the later manual transmission 280zx turbo had the oil cooler but all of the automatics did.

Proper routing of water cooling lines on the turbo might get you a bit of residual coolant flow through convection.

Pull the spark plug of the cylinder where the distributor rotor is pointing and look inside.

Hammering in the freeze plugs with too small a socket can cause them to bow in the center which can cause them to not fit as tightly.

Airflow through the engine compartment is very important as well especially when concerning parking a hot car.

Many of the chryslers don't turn on the fans until 230 degrees F. The reason for the high temperature is that they are sampling the temperature of the cylinder head itself instead of the thermostat housing. I run a M30 ecu on my L28et and use a laptop to pull data from the consult port and the temp sensor on the head is always a bit higher than the temps I deduce using the lookup tables for the brand sensor installed in the thermostat housing.

When I pull a coil/igniter from a later model nissan, I also track down the small condensor that is in the harness a foot or so from the coil assembly.

I had a mazda RX-2 that did this every once in a while. One day, I pulled into a gas station and decided to fuel up while trying to figure out what was wrong. When I remove the gas cap, it was difficult and a large sucking sound was heard as I got the cap off. Apparently the tank was ending up with a vacuum in the evening after the sun went down in Washington DC and the temperature dropped 30 degrees.

The heat shielding is rubbing your driveshaft. Check the shield that bolts to the frame rails.......it goes over the exhaust but below the driveshaft.

Remember that it's possible to kill the lifespan of certain components by not letting them shed heat.

I've been running flat tops with P90 and turbo for 4 years myself and have fixed a few as far back as 1988. I was relating from experience.

5 speed and 3.54 differential are sweet. Many nissan ecus will switch to open loop operation at 3500 and some even lower than that. If that happens at your preferred highway cruising speed, your mileage suffers greatly.

Replacing the stock pistons with forged flat tops would be the ideal setup as the factory cast flat tops will easily lose parts of thier skirts on relatively mild detonation events.

Initial overheating might have been air in cooling system......very common on first starts. I always run the engine a few times and ease up to the point that the thermostat should be near to opening. Then I shut it off and let conduction do it's thing. Upon restart, I am usually greeted with a significant lowering of coolant level to which I add coolant and let run until I see flow through the radiator.

It is already under the 4.2 liter limit for the class in stock form.