TrumpetRhapsody

Something to add to the mystery... Apparently Z31 NA open diffs are 30 spline. Found that out the hard way with the recent LSD group buy.

If he's talking about the button in the engine bay... specific to 260z's, then it's not a flasher switch... it has to do with the interlock system. Check the FSM.

The way I understand it is a bypass switch for the interlock system. So if you're seatbelts or tranny bypass is broken or something, you can still start the car. PLEASE document your progress with wire deletes for the 260z. They're a ratsnest.

Has anyone had good results using the EAE in the extra code for MSII? I get too much noise (working on that) to use MAPdot AE, and my threshold for TPSdot is around 8 b/c of noise as well. I get nice smooth tip in with MAPdot, but it kicks in too frequently, even with a threshold of 150-200. So, I tried playing around with EAE, which is pretty complex. With the stock tables the tip in is pretty good for light driving, but it hates large throttle changes, and WOT quick shifts are horrible. I'm still tweaking on it, but was wondering if anyone has sucessfully implemented EAE on the L28?

The quick releases I've seen must have a hub to bolt to. The upside is that I didn't think the extra spacing was a downside, though I sit all the way back in the car b/c of my height. Ebay has some cheapie ones that are just as thin as the NRG you mention, but I don't think they're worth it. The horn button assembly broke on mine after taking the wheel off 5 or 6 times. It also doesn't clamp down tight, so the wheel wiggles a bit. Not a big deal, but annoying. I'd suggest trying the NRG. If the distance is an issue, you can get the NRG short hub as well, and end up with them adding up to the total distance of a normal Momo hub.

No, the blubs were barely too long. They wouldn't clip in. I had to remove the lenses for the bulbs to fit. They look awesome without the lenses though, beautiful white light, about the same visual light output as before.

Had it happen again yesterday. This time it was as I was going from a stop, I let the rpms bog very low, and it almost seems like it got stuck in crank mode or something. As soon as the rpms bogged the sound of the motor changed as if It wasn't running on all cylinders, and no matter how much throttle I gave the rpms wouldn't change. Once again, a MS powercycle brought it back to life.

The tires last a good little while, but my roomate just makes his own out of ABS plastic. Cheap, and works about the same.

Search my posts, I'm too lazy to go back and look. I've retrofitted mine with LED units.

Voltage is one issue I HAVE fixed. I'm using a ZX internally regulated alternator from Autozone now (so newish/reman), and have VERY stable voltages (only about a .6v variation in the logs). I'm definitely getting noise into the system, but this feels different. I get small spikes on stuff like the clt and iat, and rather large ones on the MAP that are definitely noticeable... This is a prolonged problem though, not a quick blip. Only goes away with a MS powercycle.

Ok, so I'm a fool. Just found out on the way back that the warmup table isn't live. Have to burn it for it to make a difference. Clt was at 80, but I think I had the whole thing too rich. That should help cold startups some. Guess we'll see tomorrow morning. Now back to the original, weird problem...

I see, I'll read up more on simultaneous vs. alternating. Well I know it will idle low, but with hot idle set to 950-1000, it won't even idle properly with no throttle. It sputters around below 500rpm and usually eventually dies if I don't give it some throttle. The vacuum leak method hot idles around 1100-1200, but makes no difference on the cold idle.

I'm having this bizarre issue occasionally while the engine is still very cold. Usually within 5 minutes of starting, with the clt around 40-50 or less. Most frequently it's right when I back out of a parking spot, and go to start driving off. The car will be idling very roughly due to no IAC, and i'll be having to give it some throttle to keep it from stumbling. When I increase the throttle to drive off, the motor hesitates and won't leave idle rpms (usually under 1200 or so). The motor has no power, and sounds like it might not be running on all 6. I'm usually not datalogging, since it happens infrequently, so it's hard to track. I think I did get one loged once, but nothing looked strange. PW was good, all sensors were reading normally, the motor just wouldn't go above 1200rpm or so. Power cycling megasquirt solves the problem every time. Along the same lines, I think I may need to play around with simultaneous instead of alternating injection. The car fires off very well, but no matter the warmup settings, I have to give it throttle to keep it running above 500rpm, and it's still rough till it warms up. Even introducing a vacuum leak as a manual IAC didn't help much. LatestTune120108.zip

Looks like Dave did a much better job at taking out material than I did. I'll call this my "Stage 1" port, haha. I just wanted to smooth the transition. The little dremel was getting pretty hot. I need to get a cutting bit for the die grinder when I decide to port it further.

So far so good on the new ZX alternator. Crossing my fingers that it'll last. Took off the intake manifold last night and gasket matched it for the 240sx throttle body I've been running. I did a minor amount of actual porting, but this exercise was mainly to remove the ridiculous wall of metal the air was having to deal with. Throttle response seems to be a bit more predictable now, and I'm having to adjust my map a smidgen. Before and after pics:

21 Year old, and I pay $660 a year, full coverage. No accidents, no tickets. Drivers ed helps some. State farm.

Only reason I'm using the 60mm is b/c it had a TPS on it, and was easy to set up with a throttle cable. I didn't port it b/c I was in a hurry to get it running. Soon as I get a few free hours it's getting ripped off and ported.

Mine actually causes the car to buck pretty bad until you give it a little more gas, let off completely, or press the clutch. But yes, light load low speed low throttle.

The outlet and inlet should be on the fuel rail. I can't remember which is which as far as feed return at the body, but on the fuel rail top is feed bottom is return. The "outlet" on the carbs is a bowl vent, and they usually connect up to the intake box. You might delete or fix your posted picture so it doesn't start floating around the internet confusing people. There is some talk about charcoal canister removal. Search around. Bit of a touchy subject to some.

Line 1 and 2 are feed and return. Line 3 is a tank vent that usually goes to the charcoal canister (yours appears to have been removed). Some claim if that line is plugged a vacuum could form when as tank is drained, and crush the tank.

I haven't ported mine yet, just bolted on the sx throttle body. I think the harsh flow is causing a surge at low speed light throttle.

Go to Member List in the quicklinks, then under the page numbers at the top click "Search Members", and under that click "Advanced Search". There should be a "Location" field.

You can search locations in the advanced search, just have to try a few combos like city state, then city, then state, etc.

No advice, but one is a feed, the other is a return.