TrumpetRhapsody

Incorrect sir. Basic knowledge type information is usually pretty easy to find here with searching. I'm pretty sure there is a sticky or faq talking about injectors. In fact I think there is either a link to or a large list of potential injector swaps floating around here somewhere. I also guarantee if you search just "megasquirt" you'll get about a bazillion results. The supercharged Regal and Grand Prix injectors are in fact EV-1 connectors, but are only about 350cc, and use 15mm o-rings... FWIW. I just happen to have a Regal, so I know

Anyone ever come up with a usable poly motor mount? I found some cheap OEM replacements, but I'd prefer poly

Lol, true

Sleeper = black, dude White screams "look at me I'm a race car".

Update?

You should let that guy that runs XenonS30.com know about it so he can add it to the collection.

Eeep! I had it at .060 when it got clogged by that chunk of RTV. Opening it up to .080 for you was almost exactly simulating the stock feed line size IIRC. I guess it'll be alright though... As I recall 240hoke was running unrestricted for awhile to no ill effects. Either way, as long as you don't have chunks of RTV floating around in your oil, you'll be fine!

I just found these looking for something else: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLS-001&Category_Code=BCS T3 flanges to use as a turbo spacer! That would have been MUCH better than the version I fabbed up out of plate steel. It's thicker... and not gank and custom lol. I might swap to one of those if I ever have to take my turbo back off.

Technically he's using the undrilled version of the following link, with a .080" drilled hole to serve as a restrictor... here is the normal version that is pre-drilled: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FLA-020&Category_Code=BCS This is probably the easiest way to go. AFAIK the threadpitch and size for the stock feed flange is unusual and hard to find adapters for. Maybe someone else can chime in that knows the specs. You'll also obviously need a feed flange gasket if you go that route, and that site sells them as well.

One thing I noticed with the 260z is that pretty much all accessories lose power in the start position. When wiring up megasquirt I never could find a wire that would get switched +12v in both the "run" and "start" positions. I don't know anything about your ignition system or wiring layout, but it's possible you've given it a switched +12 that goes dead in the start position. If you can't find one that doesn't, you might have to wire a switch for your ignition system like I did for megasquirt.

No offense but there are already numerous stickies and threads relating to the topic. What does need to be done is a consolidation and mass update of all the old info. A lot of it is pretty out of date, and just needs some refreshing. Perhaps your notes could help moby accomplish that, now that he has mod level editing abilities, and since most of the threads are either his or he had a hand in them. For instance, as you well know the documentation for HEI needs some help, heh. Get the new board ordered so we can finish this thing!!!

What made you choose 8.5" instead of 9" in the front?

Yup, had mine shipped "greyhound" (different company around here), and it was cheap and easy!

Congrats! Nice article

A bit late, but here's a video a friend of mine (Zeause) put together of the footage he shot at Branson Z Fest 2008. Video:

Yeah I ran without one for like a year, and I'd have to top off my radiator every week or so. Definitely check on the thermostat too though.

Woah that's pretty cool! A true California car, it has the floor temp thing for if the cat gets too hot. It will definitely be a bit of work, but it'll be worth it! That glass looks like it's in really good shape, which is nice! From the pics your rust looks pretty minimal as well, another plus! The floorboards in specific are nice for its age. That yellow thing is the coolant overflow bottle, so you might check your coolant level. It might be overflowing onto the ground over time, and causing the overheating problem.

Not many threads about scuff plates, so I thought i'd borrow this one instead of starting another. Does anyone know if the 240z scuff plates are the same as the 260z variety? MSA sells them for a reasonable price, but only for the 240z. Measurements of the length and hole spacing would be useful if nothing else. RTz's measurements lead me to believe they are universal across all S30's. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SIC04B01/40-3240

You just need the part that goes between the motor and the carbs correct? Not including the carb assembly or air box? PM me, I might have one for ya.

If you like plants, Kew Gardens is AWESOME.

Did anyone figure out if the big star side stubs clear the LCA's with this install? That's the first step. If they don't clear, custom side stubs will have to be made.

Congrats!

Whoops, looks like I made a separate thread about it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131362&highlight=ballast There are some pictures in there another member posted of the correct wiring for it. Good luck!

Search my build thread for the answer. I know it's in there... I struggled with the same thing on my car early on in the build. I'll look briefly to see if I can find it for you. My thread has many pages lol.

What pump do you endorse?