TrumpetRhapsody

Haha, that's pretty sweet. Represent!

Mine has one too, more obvious at high MAP. My table is rough, don't look too hard at it, you'll go cross-eyed

I'm interested to see what tony thinks of that lightening job

+1 It doesn't look pretty, but it works just fine. Just tuck it away out of sight.

Go grab yourself a little autozone 15 psi fuel pressure gauge and install it inline on the feed line. I found out my pump was putting out a measly 1-2psi at best, and was having the same problem it sounds like you have. Fuel pressure gauges are nice to have installed.

Good lord, no expense spared! That's some nice hardware you have there

That's how I did it. The retaining ring rotates counter-clockwise to unlock. Then a bit of prying to break loose the 30 year old rubber o-ring and the assembly just comes out. Nothing to it.

Well for whatever reason, the 240sx alternator is toast. I'm guessing it died of old age, only thing I can reason it to. It served me well for about a week, then occasionally started putting out ridiculously high voltage (17v +) for short periods of time. Yesterday during a WOT onramp run it threw a voltage spike and blew some fuses, then went kaput. I bought a new 280zx alternator for $50 through Autozone, so at least the warranty will give me peace of mind. Back now to nice stable voltages.

240sx alternator was indeed dead, failed on all counts. Bought a new 280zx alternator for $50, so not too bad seeing as the warranty will provide some peace of mind. Voltage is now stable at 14v, MS registering a .4v spread. Hopefully this one will last longer than a week

I'll check my connections again, but I previously confirmed with a multitester that I have the "S" and "L" connections hooked up properly. Straight 12v to the "S", and switched 12v to the "L". I guess it could be intermittent connections, but my connectors seemed pretty solid. I suppose I could run a new constant 12v wire for the "S" wire, so I'm not relying on my bypassed internal voltage regulator wiring. I'm hoping it's just bad luck with the 240sx alternator. I think I may pick up a reman ZX alternator from autozone tomorrow. At least it'll be in new condition, and have a warranty. I may see about going ahead with bypassing the shunt, and installing the 280z voltmeter as well. I doubt that's the problem, but it couldn't hurt.

The ZX alternator was toast. Swapped to a 240sx alternator and had nice STABLE voltage for a week. 3 days ago on the way to school, the alternator put out a constant 17v pegging the ampmeter, and the alternator smelled hot when I stopped and checked it. Started the car back up and it was back to normal. It worked for three days till just now I had a sudden 17v spike that blew the 2amp Megasquirt fuse. Swapped fuses, but now I'm getting nothing from the alternator. Going to autozone tomorrow to test it.

You didn't list anything about the car you're putting this in...

Yeah, College is nice up here. There are crap tons of Texas people up here, it's surprising. But yeah, stickies are your friend. To be honest, I find searching is less helpful. To much clutter of people asking the same questions (ahem ). Less common problems is what searching is good for. Also, as mentioned a FSM isn't a bad idea. XenonS30.com has them digitally, very helpful. Previous car experience is nice, but often gets you in trouble on forums like this. You feel experienced b/c you've done similar stuff, but each time you change hobbies or car types there is a whole new slew of "norms" to learn. Also, these cars are so old that the parts support just isn't there like it is for newer performance cars. It's all about acquiring knowledge to learn how to mix and match old parts, not making a shopping list for new ones (that don't exist).

I used to live in Allen, so I'll cut you a break... Before you make any purchases or decisions, spend a few weeks worth of reading on here. No one is going to answer the questions you've asked straight up, b/c they've already been addressed. Check out all the stickies in all the sub forums, and if you don't understand something search and read about it until you do. Until you understand everything you'll need to do a swap, every part of the motor and all the wiring, keep reading. Ask for help only if you've tried to figure it out on your own (really tried). Performance parts aren't as readily available for these cars. Check out MotorSport Auto (MSA), Arizona Z Car, Pallnet Specialty Parts, and Black Dragon. Search hybrid for references to them if you can't find the sites with google. By doing all this work yourself you will find that the best asset to your build will be yourself, if you can get properly educated. This may seem like harsh advice, but this is how this site is run. I went from being painfully ignorant about car specifics to being fairly knowledgeable in only a few months. If you're not willing to wait and learn for that amount of time, you're in the wrong hobby. Good luck!

Perhaps ads could autoexpire after a couple months, and notify the OP to post up a new thread. That would help KEEP things clean.

Sorry for the late update, but it's been a busy past couple of days. Long story short, burned up my ZX alternator by running it as well as the internal voltage regulator. Did the IR bypass and picked up a 240sx alternator... now my voltage is ridiculously stable, and the headlights are super bright, it's awesome. I'm getting some occasional MAP spikes and some very rare CLT spikes showing up in my datalogs. Driving around, it feels like a reset or cutout when it happens. I guess I'm still getting some noise into the system somewhere, so I'll have to try and track it down. I'm still using the Autozone Bosche plug wires, so Magnecors may be in my future if I can't nix the noise. This cold weather is difficult with no IAC. I may have to see about adding one...

Congrats! Any pics for us?

So you have the "datsun air widget" connected to MS as a Fidle then. Check your settings to make sure it's open during cold starts, but closed when warmed up and idling. That could definately play into a bad idle if it's not configured properly. Also sounds like a warmup enrichments problem. Set your ve's and throttle stop so it will idle when warm, then work on your warmup enrichments.

That and Nomake Wan is supposedly re-subbing them from 3 on to give us better quality. He claims the subs from 3+ suck, but w/e.

Nice, I thought it would never get subbed.

There's not supposed to be a space like that between the mustache bar and top bushing... it looks to be loose.

Bumping this instead of starting a new thread. Additional info about this, though not as helpful. Need spotfitz's writeup. Based off of the info given from Atlanticz about the way the alternator charging system works, i've bypassed my 260z voltage regulator as follows: Body Harness: White to Yellow Black/white to White/black This gives constant 12v to the yellow, and switched 12v to the Black/white. Not sure if it's working yet. I ran the ZX alternator with my external regulator for awhile, probably burned something up. We'll see if it charges, but my Amp gauge doesn't seem to think so. (will swap for a voltmeter soon, hush!)

Any progress on this prox? I'm curious how MS handles IAT changes as well.

I haven't seen an original spindle pin yet, but those sure look a lot like my brand new ones.

I think I may be getting this too. Sometimes at cruise it's like a stumble or cut out. I've been datalogging while it happens, and I get no indications of a reset, and nothing telling in the log. Watching intently