TrumpetRhapsody

I intend to do the same. I'm pretty sure the only thing that could make a difference is that you might have to switch the wires.

Would there be ill effects to putting the PCV vacuum on the valve cover, and venting the block side? Seems like the valve cover has some measure of protection to stop oil from getting to the vent, so running it "backwards" might prevent oil from getting sucked in. I think the crankcase vacuum benefits would stay the same, but correct me if i'm wrong. I have mine setup this way, only because of hosing limitations, and it seems to work fine, with no noticeable oil in the system.

What numbers are you using for the sx 5th gear to calculate that? I usually cruise around 2400rpm in 5th with my early sx trans and 3.5 rear.

And deeper still... where he self-lightened his flywheel with a drill press!

Good lord... Check out the video: 1:37 something isn't quite right... haha Maybe it has something to do with...

I just noticed that some of the pictures show two bolts holding the poly mount to the RT mount, and some showing just one bolt. The poly mount has three holes, so either way works. The question is, is one bolt enough, or should I drill out my rt mount for two holes, since it only came with one?

Won't the ballast resistor come into play by doing that? I've removed the stock coil and ballast resistor, so if I pick either of the two that previously went to the resistor, I'll lose connection in either the run position, or crank position. At least that was the case when I wasn't running the resistor early in my build, and was trying to drive the stock coil with either of the two leads supposed to be going to the resistor. I hope makes sense, lol. Maybe I'm overthinking this. I'll dig back out the multimeter and go coil wire hunting when i get off work. As far as the relays and current, I was just worried that 4v wouldn't be enough voltage to trigger them to close while cranking.

Hopefully this hasn't been addressed before (probably has ) I've read through the Megamanual and Mobythevan's writeup several times. Searched a bit, and found more dealing with spark than stock ignition wiring. FSM tells me a little, but hasn't filled in all the dots. I went searching with a multimeter at the business end of the ignition switch for the Ignition signal that gives +12v in the run and cranking positions. Weird thing is, the only wire that fits the bill (blue with red stripe) drops to around +4v while in the cranking position. Pretty sure that will close the main relay, and kill power to MS during cranking. I had the starter disconnected, so current drain from there isn't the issue. Am I on track here, or totally off base?

How bout that old outdated FAQ

Looks like they had a drifting accident. Practice makes perfect

I spent $100, consider yourself lucky

Happy B-day! Still plan to run down to LR and meet you one of these days

Depends on what he sprayed that guy with...

The cheapest steering hub I could find for our cars was a $70 ebay momo. The short quick-release portion just search ebay for, it was like $17. This is the portion I was referring to being a bit wobbly. I'm going to try and put felt the contact area to see if that takes the play out. With a normal size momo hub, and a short quickrelease, the wheel seems about stock distance (or close enough).

You can get them much less expensive. But it wobbles a bit. NRG is good quality, but the Chinese knockoffs (like I'm using) are acceptable

Alas, I strive for perfection. 500x100 exactly

Looks like tapping into the "meat" is the best way afterall, since the slots could cause the wheel to move and "wobble" with vibration at high rpm. So much for that, lol.

Anyone have a .msq file to share for MS II Extra yet? My MS box is coming here in a few days and I figure I might as well start my tuning with extra so I don't have to expand my tables later. L28, headers, stage 1 cam, headers, EDIS, NA for now, but I could swap on the stock turbo at the same time if that's the only map I can get.

Thanks guys, that tells me that I can at the very least FIND a dampener that will work for me.

I'm going to be running EDIS, which needs a trigger wheel. Probably should've mentioned that. Additionally, I don't have a turbo dizzy with a CAS, so that's not an option either.

I just ordered everything I need to get Megasquirt going (hopefully), and included one of the 6 3/4" 36-1 trigger wheels. I searched around Hybrid, but didn't see mention of anyone using one on a L6 motor. I was looking at my balancer today, and didn't see anywhere to bolt it on, so I'm wondering if I just wasted $30. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/361-trigger-wheel-p-181.html

Alright, some little updates: I've ordered my spindle pins, ball joints, and tie rod ends, and I'm waiting for a GB for the RT diff mount to start up here in the next week or so. This means the LSD and remainder of poly bushings will be going in soon, which will be sooo nice. I've also ordered everything I need to get Megasquirt II with EDIS going, so over the course of the next month or two I hope to get that installed and start tuning on it. Sometime in that period the addition of a stock 280zx turbo may also occur. My stock fuel pump has been getting worse and worse (going lean on hills and lugging), so I broke down and spent $40 to replace it. I now have a solid 5psi all the time, and can run it through the gears without it lugging out, so that's nice. I didn't drive the Z for a week or two, and when I went to drive it the brake pedal went to the floor. There was a dried puddle stain on the driveway under the rear drivers tire, so I think I may have a slow leak. I filled the rear reservoir back up and bled the system and it's fine now, but a rear disk conversion may need to be the next project. I can't afford to replace the stock brake shoe system.

I intend to use a vacuum actuated exhaust cutout in this fashion too. Good info, old thread, lol. I'll post here if I find a source for a vacuum actuated cutout. I've heard they are available, but considerably more expensive than an electric. Supposedly they are coveted for their quick response time as compared to the electrics.

Sorry... what I meant in my post you quoted was that an size limit was not hard set, and the admins don't always crack down on it. I was not referring to forum rules as you quoted, but only the forum software limitations for linked pictures. Also, I made my beliefs apparent that smaller sigs are more conducive to this forum previously, so we actually are in agreement.

Much better. That's the trade off of a large pic I'm afraid, can't use as much text. Consider ourselves lucky this forum doesn't limit the sig size. Many forums limit the size of the pic to exactly what mine is, and only allow a certain amount of text.