PanzerAce

Don't worry. Since this is AFAIK the only current diesel swap of any kind into a Z (let alone a LD series diesel that will be turboed), I'm going to be documenting everything that I can to help anyone that wants to follow. Would you consider the lack of LSD in the Armada R230 a deal breaker for usage of that transmission? Or (and forgive the noob question), can it be converted to LSD down the road? I'm wondering because a 2.946 rear end would mean that I wouldn't have to try and find a trans either rebuilt or used with a super tall 5th, and instead could use basically any L series trans (if it won't grenade on me...any suggestions for the strongest L series trans?)

I can't believe I didn't see that, thanks.

You might want to read this thread as well: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125246 Puts a lie to the idea that a little four banger is half the weight of a V8

Mine does it no matter what so long as the key is in any position other than off. As for solutions, I honestly have no idea :/

So in a couple of weeks I'm going to be starting my LD28(T) swap. While I don't have any idea how much torque it will put out, my current bet is "alot". So what are my transmission options for this swap? From what I understand, the Z32 trans would hold it, but it's a pain in the ass to get done, and costs a decent amount of change by the time it's done. Is there any better/easier/cheaper/whatever option out there? Or would I be better off getting a bunch of backups, and learning how to change transmissions fast? Also, I've heard tell of a sub 3:1 R230 rear end. Does it exist, and if so, what car/SUV do I need to pillage to find it? Thanks guys.

This. The problem isn't the tach, it's the connection with the coil. I get similar problems if my car sits in 110+ heat int he sun for a few hours.

So I've hit a wee bit of a snag on my LD28(T) swap into my '78 chassis. Namely, how to fit everything I've got. I need a radiator, FMIC, AC condenser, an oil cooler, and possibly even a transmission cooler (It's going to be seeing some long drives in some VERY hot climates, like 110F+). But how the heck do I fit everything then? The radiator is basically fixed, so how do I setup the rest? oil coolers/AC stuff b/w the FMIC and rad? in front of the FMIC?

Turbo for sure (probably the same time I swap the engine in. the 280ZXT Manis bolt up with a little bit of dremel fun). Biodiesel should be fine anyway, but I won't be running it on WVO (what I think you're asking about). Unless it's a diesel But yes, I will need to get the BAR to sign off on it being a diesel, and thus not requiring smog.

Well, considering it's an LD28, I don't think I have to worry about that cutoff either

Well, the way I'm getting around smog in my new '78 is by swapping a diesel in

malwarebytes is the best program I've been able to find in the years I worked IT. It won't do on the fly protection in it's free form, but on the other hand, it is robust enough that if you just run it once a week you won't have any problems. Also, the MWB support staff will help you with any problems it can't fix even if you have the free version.

I'm interested in this as well. While I would love to have a 9 or 10k sustainable rpm motor, I don't have that kind of money. However, if something like this can be done with just a machine shop access, that really interests me.

There's one concern: also, does that head have the extra 2mm bore space on the 3/4 cylinders that the L series does?

So my coolant temp readings have been acting really weird lately. It'll climb normally to operating temperature, but once it gets there, it almost drops right back down to about 120 degrees on the guage. Even if the engine sits for awhile to let the heat soak into the coolant, the dial never moves more than 3-5 degrees off of 120. I'm thinking (based on how the car is driving/idling) that it's just the temperature sensor that is off (or the wiring has started grounding on something maybe?), but is there anything else that could cause these symptoms?

What hoses did you use to replace the fuel lines? Mine are rotting in basically the exact same place (if I fully fill the car, I get gas on the ground )

Leaving aside which is better (both suck, btw, get triple mikunis ), I have to laugh at the people that go on and on about how SUs are an old design. Last I checked, holly carbs were just as old (hence why any shop can work on them).

Um, one problem. Looks like the exhaust is right on top of the oil filter mount. Going to have to move one of them around

I knew I wasn't the only one *tears up*

When you're doing something, and as you're wrapping it all up, you forget the tiniest little detail that sends everything haywire? I somehow managed to forget to fully snap in my dizzy cap with both metal tab/snap thingies, and managed to run super retard timing after swapping my thermostat.

ebay probably has one or two on it right now.

I'd get a good night's sleep, wake up early in the morning, fill the tank, and just start driving.

I think I just found the color I want when I get my Z repainted

Better hope the cop heard that as well.

So I'm going to be picking up a '78 280Z and a LD28 soon to do this swap. I'll take as many pictures as possible to help anybody else that wants to do this in the future (and maybe we should have a 'Diesel engine' subforum?

I'm 6'1, 250ish, and I always feel cramped when I'm trying to get around under the Z. I figure not much can be done about it though,s ince they are small cars...