PanzerAce

Well, I just found the initial place it went: Atmosphere. Looks like my overflow line cracked and just started venting straight into the air. All the other hoses are still good. Thermostat/pump is working (after refill temps were consistent and in the proper heat range). The rest of the stuff is going to have to wait till thursday to get checked. Finishing up school and starting a new job is leaving me with no time to give to the car . I know I've got a site in my bookmarks describing how to interpret spark plug condition, but what will the piston look like if coolant has been getting into the chamber?

You manage to get the numbers on the distance b/w the shifter and front of the bellhousing?

Because I've never overheated a car before, and my coolant temp readings never gave me a consistent number. I know it was at the least running hotter than it should have been, but I'm using 'overheating' in the sense of destroyed parts overheating *shrugs*.

Oil doesn't seem to be contaminated, but I'll check that again next oil change (ie, whenever I get the money for it).

Nah, I never get out to the bay, I just don't have the money these days to justify the gas it would take to get there and back :/

So last night my car started overheating I think. Idling badly, not coming off idle very easily at all (wanting to die if I tried to accelerate), the hood was way hotter than usual, stuff like that. I got it home, popped the hood, let it cool for awhile, and discovered that my coolant level was way low. I refilled the rad this morning, and started the car. Other than the alt belt (or possibly it was the electric fan rubbing in it's housing) squeeking for a few minutes then going quiet, it *seems* like my engine made it through OK, but I'm still a little worried. Are there any easy/quick things to check to see how bad it got for the engine?

You're just up the road from a couple of other HBZers *waves*. GL with all that rust man, Looking forward to seeing the end result (and seeing it on the road).

I haven't noticed people wanting to race me, though part of it might be that I'm psychologically incapable of noticing ricers.

Might want to hold off on that. Seems like a fair number of people have been spinning bearings on these motors even with mostly stock ones. Current thinking on NICO is that clearances are too tight on the BEs of the rods, and that more space there + heavier oil is a possible solution.

Hey, we're talking about people here, not freaks of nature. Simo Hayha has got to be one of the most bad-ass guys of all time.

This as well. Outside of the US and maybe one or two other countries, there isn't the tradition of marksmanship in civilians that leads to great snipers. Guys that have to hunt to put food on the table are going to be better shots than those that don't touch a gun till they join the military.

Man, reading about all these new restrictions make me really glad that I'm not required to smog and never have to run a cat. grey, after the 16th I'm available to help you get the z back on the road if you need it.

Heh, lefties. I've actually been reading up on the 223AI round, and damn I want one now. Better ballistics than a .308, AND it uses .223 primers/bullets, AND you can fireform your own cases by just running a .223 Rem round through your gun.

Eh, they're welcome to the Steyrs, I could never like them. They just felt....wrong to me. Give me a FN PBR any day.

Speaking of motorcycle engines, take a look at the Hartley page if you really want something to rev to the moon, looks like their H2 engine is done/almost done (seems to be basically half of their H1 2.8L V8). Claimed up to 250hp NA, I'd say look at that (and might even be cheaper to grab that then to try to get a 'de-stroker' crank for an SR). http://www.h1v8.com/H2.html

Not all 700s are made equal. I'm willing to bet that the barrels that the US uses are WAY better quality than anything the Iranians are getting their hands on. Same with powder and bullet quality (and of course optics).

Why not? Doubtful that they've gotten anything near what the US has. Probably still running SVD/NDM rifles. Maybe only PSLs.

Well, considering that I decided when I got my Z that it got first dibs on my income and time over any girl....

I'll brake enough to get the lights on, but not enough to actually slow down trick. Just isn't worth having to pry some crumpled cross over SUV off my rear bumper. It does amaze me though how many people don't necessarily tail gate, but follow WAY to close for the speed we are going. I don't think they realize that if I slam on the brakes, I'm going to slow down WAY quicker than they can.

That's pretty good. I always liked this series as well:

9-12k is going to cost $$$$, but I'd think you would be ok with the stock stroke. Chain vs. Belt: IMHO, chain is WAY better. I have no empirical evidence of this, but hearing about a buddy's horror stories of belts makes me glad the L is a chain.

Oh man, bear creek is a blast to drive (well, compared to all the other roads in town, atleast the paving is consistent). I'm over by 20th and V. From what you're saying, it sounds like maybe just stricter rules for cat replacement. Given what I know about CARB though, I would have thought that as long as you passed smog and had a cat it wouldn't matter. And hey, if you ever need an extra set of hands for the Z, drop me a line on here and I'll probably be free to help. edit: Quick check of CARB and the BAR doesn't come up with anything relevant to new cats. The BAR has some new standards on smog testing that they are trying to get through, but that looks more like procedural changes rather than anything else.

Not sure, shoot them an email or call them if you can figure out when to do it for the price.

So can someone explain the advantages or disadvantages of this for those of us that don't have the engineering background to figure it out for ourselves? THis is the first time I've seen that kind of setup.

I'd still like to do a build with one of these units at some point, but that's going to have to wait for a spare shell (and money).