PanzerAce

Tagging this for more reading when I'm on a decent internet connect

While I would generally agree with not getting a knockoff turbo from ebay for cheap, what if you only plan on slapping it to say a CA18ET with a busted turbo? When the engine itself is so damn cheap (I've seen S12 guys getting rid of them for less than 100 bucks), why *not* a cheap turbo?

...three sea shells....

http://www.kameariusa.com/L6products.php couple of kits on there...

I'm on more forums than I know about

That V-12 aero engine is pretty cool, any one have any more info about it? (Partly because a buddy of mine has aero engines just lying around in his yard, and I've got an itch to do something with them)...

That reminds me, I still have a spray can of carb cleaner around here somewhere, I should see how well that works...

jeebus

What you do is pay the ticket on time

Maybe a little, but I also feel that gassing critters to death is the only proper way to dispose of them. Reading this thread make me want to re-discover parts of my own german heritage, considering I've seen a couple of widows (of unknown black/browness) around in the yard, and god only knows what in the garage....

It doesn't get any better after college

For the question of displacement, read this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119072 Remember, boring is only ONE of the two ways to get more displacement on a given engine. The OP mentioned that he wanted torque, so stroking seems to be the way to go to me.

that is awesome.

Um, why the F54 block instead of the N42, which *should* leave you more cylinder wall after the overbore? Also, any special reason for a tt setup instead of a single turbo?

I'm interested in this, just to see what the market is willing to pay for Mikunis these days. That auction will probably decide what I do with my carbs after switching to efi....

what kind of rifle/caliber? You can usually find ammo for way cheaper online compared to in stores.

Well, if you want to keep the L24, but have to rebuild it, then I don't see any reason that you couldn't turbo it. Though I wouldn't do it with a down draft setup, since EFI would probably be easier to life with in the long run (especially since with a turbo right below it, you are going to start having to deal with boiling the fuel with a carb).

Dude. This is a site dedicated to Datsun and Nissan Z cars. Coming in here and asking about swapping something into a Buick would be about like going into a honda forum and asking about a Jag V12....it just doesn't make sense. It doesn't help that you immediately turn rude as well. And if you really don't like your 350 and 370, but don't feel the need to sell them, just send them my way and I'll give them a good home.

Which is what it comes down to in the end. To the OP: You might be better off finding a pre '75 to swap into, since you won't have to worry about smogging it then.

Cool, thanks man. Numbers wise it's going even screwy-ier (which is now a word) than when I first posted. It was reading zero psi, but a visual check through the oil cap showed that the spray bar was indeed getting oil (though since I never checked the visual on that when I knew everything was working, can't say for sure if it's more/less pressure than idle should have). Even if it is the sensor rather than the pump itself, I'm probably going to pull the pump and clean it this monday for peace of mind.

So first question: is there anyway to test the function or "reset" the oil pressure relief valve without removing the oil pump from the block? I think some of the old oil gummed it up (after my oil change, oil pressure has been low at anything other than idle). (On a semi related note, where is the oil pressure sensor located?). Second (completely unrelated) question: Does anyone know the bolt size/thread pitch for the vacuum assist post on the #6 runner on a mikuni manifold? I think I've got a vac leak in my booster system, and I don't really have time right now to pull the entire thing apart, so I'm willing to just cap it off for now. On the other hand, if feeling the brake peddle pulse while idling with the brake depressed is indicative of something other than a vac leak, can you guys let me know? Thanks in advance guys.

Cool, thanks for the info guys. No work this upcoming thursday, and it's going up on stands anyway for some stuff, so I'll get the bumper then to see what the deal is. rturbo, if the 240s didn't have shocks, were they just metal bolted together, and simple friction prevented excess movement? The 1/3 page in the FSM isn't nearly enough to see how they are setup.

Bumper itself looks fine, just the rubber part got taken off (and probably cause it was rotted already). From what I could see of the bracket when I got home tonight, it looks mostly ok (or atleast, the mounting part of it does). AK-Z, where does it unbolt from? I assume from inside the body panels around the gas tank?

And I won Delivering a pizza to a hotel here in Merced, and when I get back to my car I see that someone managed to slam a front headlight into my rear bumper. They left glass everywhere, and my bumper only got pushed in and the rubber strip on it torn off in a 4" strip on the corner. So, is there any special way to move my bumper back to it's original position (doesn't look like it hit the body itself or anything), or it just a matter of yanking it back into position?

And that's why I want to do a ZD swap for a DD Z car...