PanzerAce

And that's why I'm interested. Obviously modern twin cam, 4 valve setups have very little space or need for performance improvement, but head like ours? It seems to be worth a shot. Guess I'll add a 280zxt long block to my list of stuff to find in the pnp next week to try this on.

I actually almost didn't post this thread for the same reason, but I searched and realized that the only times that anybody had mentioned it, it wasn't being trashed, so I figured there might be something. My own thoughts on the design of the cuts: It seems that the design of cuts, in addition to helping swirl the mix, is that it provides an easier path for the flame front to spread, so a design that maximizes the surface that gets exposed would be best from what I understand. On our L series heads, there isn't alot of space to work with, but maybe one or two that spread from the center of the chamber radially outward. Heh, now I think I'm going to have to snag all the heads that i can to test various designs. Realistically, even if he gains aren't that great, or if they are in say EGTs only rather than any power, it seems like it would be worth it considering all the other work that people put into their Z cars. I guess if anybody does this, we need pictures of the cut design as well with all the other data so that we know generally what works best.

Ya, looks like (from the head thread above) that the MN47, P90, or P79 heads are going to be the ones to really look for to try this on (or a welded up head, but that'll defeat the idea of a cheap turbo build to test with)

Same here. If it ends up working great, well then I don't really care why it works (plus, I'm a history major, I probably wouldn't understand it anyways). I guess next week when I'm digging around in a PnP if I can find a pair of heads that are in good enough condition I'll hold onto them (rather than selling them) and start building a cheap parts turbo motor. Not so much for power, but just to shove into a chassis for testing to see if this will work.

moby, I think I read somewhere was that one reason for this was that you didn't *need* as much advance to get the same power, since the flame front is supposed to travel faster. So lets start figuring out some criteria for determining if this works when someone gets around to doing this on HBZ. So far it seems like in addition to details on the engine build, we'll need to know: EGT Idle speed? Timing advance (at highest power output) Boost achieved safely whp/wtq (with graphs) observed fuel economy? All of the above of course for with a non-grooved head, and then a head in the same configuration (polishing, porting, etc) with the grooves both before and after a retune. Anyone else have any ideas for what should be tested on this?

I'm interested in how it'll go, especially the differences without changing anything other than the grooves, then once the boost is cranked up, just how much extra the grooves allow. Don't suppose you could pop the car onto a dyno before you change the head at all, after you put the grooved head on (without a change in tune), and then after a retune for the grooves?

So just now I remembered an article I read about a year ago about a guy in India that had supposedly figured out how to make ICE engines more efficiently, run cooler, run with higher compression, etc. I looked for the website again, and here it is: http://somender-singh.com/ The basic idea seems to be that the groves allow for quicker combustion and for more turbulent air inside the cylinder. So, anybody actually try this yet? I searched, and these have been referenced a couple of times, either neutrally or I'd say 'guardedly' positively. But have any HBZers actually tried it?

Another vote for the L28et build. You should be able to get 300-350whp easy on your budget.

Wasn't this the reason that some L28s had that air pump to cool down the injectors?

That's starting to sound like it's a problem with the roadway design now (assuming you weren't flying at mach 3).

Did I catch an error with Wiki D Early 70's plates were still six digit I believe in CA. Or atleast, mine is somehow. Three numbers then three letters.

Probably easier to build one like a DB610 aircraft engine then (two complete engines side by side, with gearing in the front to a common output shaft). Doubles (or slightly more) the width, but it would stay in a rational length.

Aren't they just Ecotecs? I think the issue more is that the LSx/SBC swap is more well known/cheaper

Damn that sucks.

dawt/dot sun California.

1) No other car. Hopefully going to be getting a motorcycle soon to DD 2) I don't, beyond oil changes, filters, etc.

Happy Bday.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did the entire swap cost? It seems like this would be a great 'poor-mans' alternative to any of the RB or JZ swaps.

Well hot damn then. I guess poor broke ol' me just doesn't understand collector appeal of a Z car. Sure, I'd love to get my hands on a really early Z, but I probably wouldn't be *that* nice to it. Maybe not hybridize it, but not a complete restore either.

Ok, I grok what you're saying now

He spent 73k, and couldn't even get it painted?

Jeebus

Um..............Based on my admittedly old physics classes, I think you're off on this. The TORQUE (in ftlbs) should be a constant, all that is changing the lever length. You have to put less weight or force into the end of a longer wrench for a given torque value, but the torque reading on the wrench will still be accurate. Example: 100ftlbs on a one foot wrench = 100lbs on the end of it 100ftlbs on a two foot wrench = 50lbs on the end of it. Different amount of force on the end of the wrench, but the torque value is still going to be the same.

Well, picked up a solid state flasher unit and....no change. Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't basically ANY current cause one of these suckers to flicker? If so, it's almost starting to look to my (less than knowledgeable) eye that the flasher unit isn't even in the circuit for some reason. And of course, there isn't any room to crawl under the dash in my current parking spot, so it's going to be a day or two till I can even start to figure out wtf is up with my car

Cool, I'm going to be driving past a auto-zone tonight after dinner anyways, guess I'll just swing in and see what they can do.