letitsnow

That sucks, I'd look at getting a set of ITM pistons with rings.

My n/a pistons had turbo rings on them, it also had 70% leakdown. Call a local machine shop that carries hastings rings, they should be able to hook you up for ~$60. Also, why are you changing the pistons, does the motor run good? If it does, leave it be.

You can't have a 220 line put it for under 1k? Even if you had it put right next to the fuse box and bought/made a big ass extension cord to go to the welder? What about the stove/washer/dryer, are they 220? I'm going to guess and say you wouldn't be limited to half current output, but damn close. That generator is going to hate life being run that hard.

No, you can't buy a new crank, but you can buy a used good shape crank in the for sale section.

Update for me too, With a fresh bottom end and a p90 with an N/A A cam I ran 13.4 at 101 on 8psi falling to 7 at 4500. The tune was something I thew together in an hour, pretty rich AFR and I'm sure it could tolerate more timing. New goal is an 11.99 on the stock turbo, not sure if it's possible, but I'm going to give it a shot. Also, forgot to mention it in the first post, but the car weighs 2700 with me in it.

I really liked the E36 M3 that I drove, comfortable, handled well, fairly quick(it felt much faster than it actually was). If I were to buy one it would have to be in very good shape to begin with. I've driven a base C5 vert too, the interior didn't feel that cheap or crappy to me. Around here the corvette wouldn't be a very good year round DD, the M3 would probably be a bit better for that.

Yup, street mod is pretty open and if it doesn't fit there, X prepared is the other option.

Find a local machine shop or somebody that carries hastings rings to order through, I got mine for ~$60.

You might want to consider moving away from the stock ecu in that case, it doesn't really like bigger cams and bigger turbos.

I used a stock EVO 8 unit, it lined up nicely with the holes in the core support. Other guys use ebay units or something from a volvo, the s30 can fit a pretty big IC.

Stock injectors should be alright, but I'd watch the AFR closely. IC, exhaust, and boost should get you there.

14ish, they've been a little erratic lately, but I'm nearly positive that I have an injector or two that's partially plugged.

Mine seems to like 25 degrees at idle.

Is EGO correction turned off? It should be while tuning. Is your VE table smooth around the cruise area? You may have to adjust timing to get it to idle leaner, I've got mine to idle pretty well at 14ish.

He could, but he'd be running ~22% rich. The stock injectors should be close to maxing out at that point, assuming no increase in pressure. I've seen 50ish% duty cycle on my 750's(at a lower pressure, probably closer to 600-650cc) with the stock turbo at 12-14psi(intercooled, full exhaust, etc, probably close to 250rwhp), so that's pretty close to the limit for the stock injectors. I'm not that well versed in making the stock ecu work at higher power levels, but I believe people make them work reasonably well with rising rate regulators.

It would still run rich with higher pressure, there's no difference. If you used a rising rate fpr, then it only runs higher pressure in boost.

The stock ECU can control the stock injectors. My stock injectors flowed ~300cc/min after I had them cleaned, I think they tested at 43.5psi.

The 50trim should make an easy 350-400rwhp, srt4 guys have made 420 with a .48 exhaust housing and 440ish with the .63 housing. Power in that range should be good for 120-125mph with a 2700lb(w/ driver) car, 120-125 should be good for low 11's with a good launch. Hell, a stock turbo should be good for mid 12's pretty easily, I ran a 13.4 on 7lbs on the stock turbo.

I weighed the bumpers at approximately 40-50lbs each, struts were maybe 5 lbs. I still haven't removed the rear duck bill thing and rear bumper struts, so there's maybe another 10lbs to take off involving the bumpers. Also, no spare tire and tool kit. Simple 3" exhaust with a big, fairly quiet muffler. Most of the AC is gone, but the stuff under the dash is all there.

My 280z, with a turbo/IC L28, most of the interior intact, coilovers, 16x8 xxr 513's, and both bumpers removed weighs just over 2500lbs without me in it.

I think the MS2e documentation could really use an update, the current firmware has a ton of features that I can't find any information on. You can find some by searching the forums, but that can take a ton of time.

I agree with matt, you can try to fake a signal, but all you'd be doing is adding inaccuracies into the timing algorithms, adding complexities into the wiring and code, all to lose the ability to use spark cut rev limiting and have more hardware in the engine bay. You can run the proposed wheel signal straight to the MS, then have the MS fire the coils directly. The EDIS box can go in the trash or on ebay or something, it's not needed. All you have to do is tell the MS what kind of wheel you've got and which coils are hooked to which outputs and you're done.

POR-15 is very good, or so I've heard(I've never used it, I did use their gas tank sealer with mediocre results). I use rustoleum on parts that don't get seen, it's been pretty good to me. I painted the front frame of a 2nd gen camaro with rustoleum that I was planning on using for a project, I never did, it's sat outside for the last 8 years and still looks good.

I think those were just pictures of places these cars generally rust that he found on google. The turbo L can easily make 250-300+, but finding a good one can be a pain. I'd consider a KA-T, sr20, or LS1 if I built another s30, I'd probably consider one of the toyota 6's as well. I think the inlet on the blower of the L67 would interfere with the hood latch and firewall pretty badly.

I feel like a lot of people don't quite get that MS controlling coils directly actually has more features and is less complicated than EDIS. The only thing it lacks is a limp mode, but limp mode is only active if the ECU isn't sending a signal to the EDIS box, which would be a wiring or config issue. If the sensor goes, you'd still be SOL. Maybe just a little.