letitsnow

What kind of FPR is that? Is it rising with boost?

Unless I'm looking at your diagram wrong, that bolt is in single shear, which changes things significantly. What kind of loads are you talking about here? Grade 8 bolt?

My stock turbo injectors flowed 306-312cc/min@43.5psi. I can post the flow sheet if need be.

No, I meant, what were you doing during that last picture.

What are you doing in the last picture? Are you actually hitting the throttle and it's resetting, or is it resetting and making the TP and MAP graphs do funny things. The battV is MUCH cleaner, the fact that you're getting more resets is odd to me.

That's pretty slick! I thought one of the complaints of a low tooth count wheel was timing inaccuracies, any comments? I think I'll have to look into this.

Add an accord in there too, the f22a4 in an EX makes 130hp and a pretty decent amount of torque.

I have an eagle 355ci rotating assembly in one of my firebirds, it's been flawless for the past 3 years running low 12's, being shifted at 6k regularly and seeing 7k occasionally, and generally just being beat on. As with anything, check it for yourself before it goes in the motor. Not doing so is just lazy, even with big money parts.

Just think of it as an expensive shirt with a free cam.

I've been thinking about having them do some SBC/Ls1 roller cams, they told me it would be $137.50 to regrind a stock LS1 cam to nearly any specs, that's about $300 cheaper than anything out there.

It doesn't matter where in the circuit you put them, just as long as you put 1 per channel. They can be on the +12v side if that's easier.

Maybe your gas station switched to a winter blend, I'm not sure if that would make such a difference though.

That part should have been bolded from the beginning. DC is like a multiplier for the current, for example, say you have 10 amps(if it was steady state or at 100% DC) at 30% DC, this is effectively only 3 amps, same as 10 amps at 50% DC is 5 amps. The megamanual suggests 2 amps max to not use PWM(although 4 15ohm injectors is 3.75A@12v), 3 4ohm injectors will draw 9A@12v an 10.5A@14v. At the DC you were at, that's about 7A through the drivers, not a good thing. If you have a stim, see if the injector lights blink.

I had that problem, but then I updated it and it worked.

I had mice store dog food in the exhaust of our camaro once, it was coming out for DAYS.

I don't have any in my s30(yet), my uncle mounted them to something under the dash in his firebird(it was his car that had the issue, not mine), really any cool piece of metal that has a flat spot big enough to mount them will work, bare metal with some heatsink compound is preferred, but painted would be alright. The MS case is pretty ideal, but I think they'd make it look slightly too 'mad scientist' for me, especially if it's visible, like mine is. The only time these have a chance to heat up is under extended high duty cycles, like a track day or top speed run.

Some of that nasty voltage is because of the PWM, dropping resistors would cure some of it up. Notice how it gets worse when you get on the throttle, it's because the injectors are at a higher DC and the pwm circuit has to deal with more current/emf.

The graph I posted was a TBI 305 in a firebird, it only has 2 very low resistance injectors which changes the required resistance. If you have 3 4 ohm injectors per bank use a 25w 3.5-4ohm resistor per bank. I like this one if you mount it to a heat sink(like the case of the MS or something). It's pretty big, I doubt you could fit it in the case, so you'd have to put it on the outside or mount it to something else. Or this one if you don't want to mount it to a heatsink, but it's about twice as long. Either will work for turbo injectors, I'm not sure about the ford injectors, if they have a resistance lower than ~2 ohms each, use the latter one and mount it to a heatsink. Even if it doesn't completely cure it, it's about the cheapest thing to try at under $10. Just be warned, mouser will send you multiple catalogs that are at least 4" thick.

You're definitely getting some resets because of voltage spikes, I can't say if they're all because of them though. With dropping resistors, you basically just put some high wattage resistors inline with the injectors and turn PWM off. What is the resistance of your injectors? You probably need 1 for each bank, around 25w and 3.5ohms, it depends on the resistance of your injectors. Where are you getting power for the MS/relay board? If it's on the alternator, I'd move it to the battery.

http://www.turbocharged.com/catalog/comp_wheels.html Looks like a T04b H trim compressor.

Option 3- buy some pipe, a universal glass pack(optional), a universal 'turbo' muffler, and some bends, assemble it and either have someone weld it or use U clamps. I'm not sure how much the HKS muffler is, but this whole setup probably would cost about as much as just that muffler. Or you could just get an MSA exhaust and have all the fitting and cutting already done for you.http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEC06

Post up the datalog, or look specifically at the batt v graph in MLV, I'd bet it's really rough, kind like this one. This one specifically was cured by doing away with PWM and installing dropping resistors.

I found TunerStudio to be very similar to MegaTune as far as layout goes, I've been using TunerStudio because MegaTune crashes WAY too much(it requires a hard restart in order to get back to what I was doing). I also like the accel enrichment graphs better that the bars in megatune, they allow me to make quick changes without datalogging.

So where do you hide the injectors? Everybody knows blowthrough doesn't work. I like it, not many blowthrough L28's, especially with a holley carb.

If custom pistons are in the budget, I'm pretty sure JE will make you just about anything.