tooquick260

Drove it to a car show at the local Harley store. Not a large turnout but saw some cool custom effects on newer model cars.

How many miles/minutes/hours had that engine combination run? If it had the wrong tolerances upon assembly it would have failed on start up/ break in. I have watched that happen. So it seems to be an oiling issue. Did something plug the oil galley to that rod? Man I feel for you. You built/fabricated what most of us think of as a dream combination that we could never do because of knowledge, but also not financially. Wish you luck and would love to see you fix the problem and beat the gremlin.... MY VOTE,..... rebuild. We can make it stronger/faster/meaner!!

Great stance

I have the later model one. I just took it off of my car to put a rebuilt one on. It works. Does not have a cover. As soon as I get my z31 tuned ecu back I will be selling the rebuilt one as well.

The white 2 wire plug looks like the one that goes to the interior light dimmer. my guess

This is from Ospho web site... RUSTED METALS - OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush - apply a coat of OSPHO as it comes in the container - let dry overnight, then apply whatever paint system you desire. When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops; this is normal - brush off any loose powder before paint application Link: http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm

As morbias said , wire wheel as much as you can then use some type of rust inhibitor/remover. I have seen my dad use ospho. You brush it on, turns black. This stops the rust process. Something about anodotic/cathodic effects of metal. The rust spots are area's that are giving up or sacrificing itself. After using the ospho spray with etching primer and your good to go. Or atleast for 20+ years.

Best of luck,,, bearings? any detonation? oil starvation? bummer.

Drain that gas out and put in the bimmer... Get so good gas andsee if that is the problem.

Well I am a novice like you. Since no one else chimed in I will tell you what I have done helping my dad on some paint projects. We went to 1500 wet sand on the primer. What you are looking for is called a profile for the paint to stick to. Only going to 400 600 even 800 will leave some sand marks. I would put a good coat of primer on now and hit it with 800 then go back over it with 1500. Even 1800 or 2400 will get a better finish. Just how deep do you want the paint to look. Then depending on your base coat. As in metals on not. My dad said you don't want to wet sand metal content base coat. Something about the sanding makes the metal lay over or flatten. So If you have non metal finish coat then wet sand that 1500 2000 2400. Hit it will 2 to 3 coats of clear and spend the time on that wet sanding again. It is such a process, time consuming and wet. It is all the prep work that sucks. Taping, cleaning the gun, mixing the paint, spraying, cleaning the gun man it sucks. But nothing is worth while with out effort. Good luck

Awesome welcome to the 260z club. All your choices look great!! I vote for the RB26DET. Its your car make it yours!!

Plenty of room to do what you want. What intake do you have? I used the N42 intake from a Maxima.

Got my tach a few days ago. Lools awesome.

no dash cap,,,,

Performance Race Solutions. http://www.performanceracesolutions.com/ I got to ride in there shop cars at Sebring. BMW 3 series and Mitsubishi Lancer. They just delivered a 900hp audi to a customer. They are not going to do any tuning but will check to see how the tune I am getting is working.

Well got my 500cc injectors with fuel lines, new connectors etc. Now waiting on my tuned ECU. I have an 88 ECU that is being altered to run a Z32 MAF tuned for my setup. 8.5 to 1 compression, Schneider's 270-60F-14 cam. Once this is done I have a personal friend that inherited his brothers tuning shop and I get free dyno sessions. Will see what numbers I can make with this setup. Hoping to get 250 hp with 10 to 12lbs of boost on the stock T3. Not a tall order I think. If the numbers look good and all sounds good I will try a 15lb pull just to see what it has. So, I plan on starting at 7lbs, then 10lbs, then 12lbs and then 15lbs. As long as setting the controller nets those numbers.

Got my new one Yesterday.. Will install this week. Sexy..... Can't wait!

bummer,,, hope no carnage other than ujoint or axle. Diff crackage would suck.

what is your setup? Stock, modified etc.... When I got my z 260 last October pretty much stock with 2 2brl weber's it ran great on short trips. My first road trip pegged the temp gauge. Ended up being the radiator. 39 years of wear and tear finally plugged it up to much. I bought a 3 row aluminum radiator and new water pump. Since I have had issues of getting heat in the motor. Of course 95 temp days it stays around 180 to 190 water temps or gauge reading right in the middle.

vacuum leaks are the issue,,, I second that. That was my hole issue in my build for 2 weeks. Didn't realize that I had a 15 mm size hole open on the bottom of my intake.

You are close...... great

Great thanks for the info. I have new bushings just have not put them on. I just did tie rods 3 weeks ago and had the car aligned after the install of the new T3 rear suspension.

No I have not greased it or any maintenance attention to it at all. I made a hard left hand u-turn on a 6 lane road yesterday and got on it 1-5 gear and realized I was really fighting the steering wheel from making the car go left. I thought I was just spinning HAHA! So, I tried a hard u-turn to the right and it does the same thing. So I will look at greasing the pinion and maybe backing off on the tightness. Thanks

Ok, I have had my car for 8 months now. Ever since I got it I have an issue when making a full lock turn. That is when I turn fully left or right and then center back straight the car wants to pull to the direction i did the full turn to. I have had the car aligned again recently. All front suspension is new. So, do I have a faulty rack? Car has less than 90,000 miles but is 39 years old!

Ok I will take mine apart. I had some electrical issues and had some heat go thru the wiring. The 2 wire connector that mates the feeds to the dimmer is like welded together.