240hoke

Get my Z "finished" and have fun with it. I took my car out on the road for the first time in over a year yesterday on new years day! I also resolve to finish up my second semester of college strong with good grades, stay on the deans list and try for a co-op.

Hey guys, I just thought I would show you what I did on my speedometer. I was tired of having a bouncy speedo, mine used to bounce over 20 mph at high speeds. Anyway I switched over to an autometer electric. They can also be recalibrated in a few minutes to match any rear end gearing tire changes etc. The only thing you need is the gauge, the autometer sender, and a little wire. The sender comes with a sqaure key on both sides. I figure this is for a chevy or something similar. Our nissan trannys have a different keyway. When you pull you stock cable out you can cut the key off of it and drill out the cable. With this done it can then be pressed (hammered) onto the autometer unit. This finished product looks like this: here is what he sender looks like: You will also need to add a nylon spacer between the threads on the tranny and the speedo sensor. this allow the sensor to tighten down completely and seal since the nissan threads are shorter. electric speedo in dash: Anyway hope this helps some people. there may be a nissan sensor out there somewhere that would work, but this is plenty easy and works well.

Hey, It depends on what type of seat you have as to how they are mounted. I am using corbeau A4's with the corbeau slider. I just used some steel angle i believe 1.5x1.5 its about 1/8" thick. I tied it into the subframe connectors, tranny tunnel, and rocker panel. i trimed them up so i have plenty of room under the seat and made it more aesthetic. I was also able to lower the seat more then an 1" closer to 2". It's cheap, easy and works very well. Its also PLENTY strong.

Hey, looks pretty good. On the blotchy primer how did you sand it? And also with the orange peel it just means you need to lay more paint down. I was scared when i painted my car of runs.. so i have peel in a few places. Runs can be sanded out but peel is much harder to get rid of.

looks nice, good work. i know that was fun Wish i Would have taken the time to stich weld everything.. Are you doing the underneath? Like the rear subframe and all?

sounds to me like a dirty gun or youve got water in your line. Have you taken your gun completely apart and clean it throughly I did that last week and was amazed at the buildup. i usually just spray acetone through the gun and or soak it over night. No more of that for me they get disassembled every time.

Most paint guys I talk to say never to use a HVLP gun unless you are spraying something like primer. I used conventional gravity feed guns, i think thats your best bet, they spray at about 35psi and you can find cheap ones for about 50-100 bucks, I have had good luck with them, jsut tkaes some practice.

Hey, Ive tried doing the honda wiper motor swap but the motor that i got off ebay turned out to be bad from what I can gather. I tried hooking it up like hte faq says and it was a no go. I tried just about everything. Soooo Im back to a cleaned up 260z wiper motor I had laying around. Runs great has high and slow speed but cant figure out how to make it stop at the bottom. My question is -- is where it stopps after the switch is turned off controlled by the motor, or circuits in the car? I have three wires running off my combo switch. (I have converted to painless) so the only thing i have is the wires off the combo. I was hoping somebody with some electrical knowledge could help me out. Thanks

Im gonna be perfectly honest not trying to be an ***, but in my mind it looks like that blue car but very riced out. It just doesnt flow well with the 240z. Front end doesnt do it for me at all. I think you have good ideas but it doesnt flow everythign needs to be smoothed out with better trasitions. I think I might play around with some sketches i think it looks like fun, ive been trying to figure out a new flare design for these cars. Something simple and elegant that flows better then the steel flares out there today like victoria british ones.

i wonder if somebody could recalibrate it easily? then you could print a face like that off on a photo printer. i dont know anything about the factory gauges but it seems like it could be done.

This is interesting, can we get a picture or something Im having a hard time visualizing. I need to do this.

By the way driftn i dunno if youve seen it, i think everyone has. But the rearend youve designed has already been done almost exactly like that on hte tt v8 blue car i think out of japan. Maybe somebody can link picture. But hte widebody rear is hte same.

I can get a good mesaurement on those LCA bushing next week, Im getting my car up on the alignment rack and will have to pull the bolt to adjust them so i can measure then. However, I just measured off the stock bushing so you sound be able to figure it out.

Sweet! Glad to see you put those parts to use, they looks great! i like your u bracket better then mine, did you have the width custom bent? heres my link one these arms: http://www.geocities.com/projectzt/tcrod.html

I second that dan! I too drove with mine on high beams all the time lol, never got flashed at. I garuntee with my hellas drivers will notice, with the yellow star bulbs its like you are staring into the sun.

Never too big!! oh yeah its 4" thick. But really kidding aside you should check out corky bell's book on how to turbo charge your car, he explains alot of stuff in there, it shoudl answer jsut about all your turbo question. Good bit is detail on how to pick the right size i/c.

second one is much better! When I said i liked the back i forgot to mention without the wing lol. A big wing on a z would be worhtless and serve more purpose, when you switched to the little i guess we could saw bre style spoiler it completely change the look of the car. Your attention is draw towards the huge flowing haunches and the roofline of the car which the big wing ruins. To me the z car is about the roofline, quarter windows, and the big sugar scoop headlights. try redrawing it with the front valance picked up more, not on the sides towards the wheels but in the middle. The way it is now it looks like the center of the valance it shoveling dirt because it is definitly lower then the ground.

hahahah awesome, Id like to hear his whole gig. thanks for sharing gave ma good laugh.

I like the rear but i cant stand the front end. Looks like alot of these ricers out there, the civics with the huge front ends with gaping holes everywhere, way way way way too agressive. I love classic smooth flowing lines though. Just my 2 cents, I know they are just sketches but i think the design is way to radical for most people. I guess a way to put it is when modifying my car i want to go for a smooth elegant style like alot of older european sports cars, not something out of batman, or a comic book. Anyway keep up the good work, I like your 280zx sketches, hope to see somehting materialize there as some type of good body kit is needed for those cars, isnt much out there.

Not to bust your bubble, but those ebay type lights are horrible. I ran a set on my 260, they look pretty but they have horrible glare and a bad light pattern. shine them on a walll and look at your cut off. My lights were very easy to outdrive at night. Anyway... I think hella ecodes are awsome lights, and I prefer the look. Very highquality light with an excellent pattern and cutoff. Prices are very resonable depening on which bulbs you decide on. Check out this site: http://www.rallylights.com/hella/7in.asp I ordered a set of yellow stars from them and they arrived in 2 days, Ryan has had a good expirience with them too. Anyway.. ill stop rambling. i just feel liek i got ripped off when i paid 50 bucks for those things a couple years ago.

good luck welding that area. It would be very tough, Im not so sure youll get too much stiffness out of a rusty joint like that if you can get a good weld. Have fun

john i had something very very similar to what you have. I brushed out as much of the rust from the seams as i could both under dash and in the cowl, then used some naval jelly to dissolve the rust a bit. After cleaning I coated everythign with a VERY VERY heavy coat of ZeroRust inside the cowl, I brushed it on, it literally took a day to dry. After that i put seam sealer along the seam from the inside and on the outside in the cowl as well. I applied the seal sealer thick. After that I gave everythig na heavy shot of primer and painted it. 3M makes a great seam sealer that dries fast and is easy to work with.

Hey phillip!! It's austin hoke with the blue 240z, weve talked over email a couple times and you helped me out with a place for those pics ! Nice to see you on hybrid. Looks like your project has been coming along nicely. Cant wait to see the finished product. People told me I started with a worthless car when they saw mine i cant imagine what they would tell you!!! Thats some crazy rust work, much repsect for what you have done.

how much is it to run at VIR? i jsut went up their and did the south loop yesterday for the xmas laps thing i would love to get out on the full course. Might even have my z done by then!

you jsut randomly have a set of bride ergo seats laying around?? and leather cobra seats. good god. Thats lke more then my whole car is worth. Hey if your not using those brides send them my way.