Six_Shooter

I mounted a 2 5/8" Auto Meter Boost gauge into the clock housing, or it could have been one of the other gauge housings (I don't recall which one exactly, because I mounted gauges in all 3), I had to trim out the plastic housing a tad, to fit the gauge into the housing nicely, drilled the rear metal housing, then used the stock mounting tab to secure it to the dash. Don't mind the AFR and small tach, they weren't in there long. Though the 2 1/16" gauges fit nicely into the clock surround, or when you cut out the metal divider on the dual gauges. The back of my boost gauge cup:

It won't be, it's simply because everyone seems to think they are building a race car.

Are there any videos from any of the other days?

Look up the B.C. Ministry of Transport website, there will be information on there about it. Calling your local MoT will also help point you in the right direction. When I imported my 240Z from Washington into Ontario, I had to make sure it was 15+ years old (well duh, lol), didn't have A/C (extra paperwork/charges), find a broker and a few other things that I'm sure I'm forgetting, since it's been 4 years. I had the transport company worry about the border paperwork.

Pictures don't work for non-members of the other forum, maybe re-host and re-link?

Cool!

I ran a 1/8 NPT tap into my block, where the original sender was, it has sealed fine for 4 years. The threads are very close to the same, but the NPT has a defined taper to it.

HAHA, WIN!

None functional parts to look like something useful are quite lame. Reminds me of these: http://alsblowers.com/streetinduction.html

I've been considering a full Tremclad paintjob recently, I painted my driver fender and front air dam with tremclad last summer, to have the whole car more or less one colour. I'm now thinking of actually repairing some of the body that needs it and painting it close to my proposed colour. Wonder if I can get it done before ZFest?

You're only using a single small AGM battery? What's the CCA on it? I'm planning to run a pair that are rated at 300 each.

More time than I would put into selling a car, you're buying a car, not going for a job interview. So because I don't want to waste my time, you would automatically assume I'm selling something damaged, or not disclosing something, even if I tell you what the car will need to a] pass safety (if anything) or b] things I would do to improve it, that have no bearing on safety (if anything)? Especially after putting it on a hoist (if need be), and letting you look over the car, hear it run, etc? Just looking over the car in person, you should be able to see anything that is not repaired or modified well. What is going on a 3 hour tour going to tell you about the wiring? I bet you're also one of those people that buy an "as-is" car and if you find something you don't like afterwards, go back to the seller about it. When I bought my S30, I had the seller send me some pictures, and then I flew out there to look it over myself. the car was about 3000 miles from me. I spent about an hour at the guys house, only about 20 minutes of it spent on the car itself, I could see what it needed, and listened to it start and run for maybe 5 minutes. I could tell the seller was open about it's condition and what it needed, I didn't need to go for a tour with it, or listen to it run for a half an hour, to know it was going to be a good car. Not everybody is out to screw the next guy, some of us just don't have the patience or desire to babysit a prospective buyer for hours on end. Threads like this remind me why I usually scrap cars, and not sell them, because it's easier to sell parts, than complete cars sometimes.

Most people are scared of building electronics like this, so this will probably not be done very much. Building my own etched circuit boards is something I need to get familiar with. Usually I just use the point to point generic boards.

FWIW, I have use that style of connector under the hood, on battery terminals, for several years on daily driven (including winter) vehicles without any real issues. Only mentioned what I did because I have seen it happen to other peoples cars from time to time. I try to avoid that style connection now, just to eliminate any possible problems before hand. The plating flaking off will not cause an issue, at least not any more than the plating not flaking off, again, I've had the flaking happen on some of my terminals, with no additional problems compared to a fully intact plating. It just doesn't look as nice. lol In this case, if the system is working, I wouldn't worry about it too much, especially if this terminal block is in the interior, like has been posted. If I had to get in there and change something anyway, then I would take the time to make a direct connection between the battery and starter. Speaking of small batteries, I should get my AGM battery set-up installed and working.

Looking at the '76 FSM, it looks as though the rheostat (dimmer) is placed between the ground and the bulbs, so you can jump the two wires together at the rheostat, or run one side to ground. Easiest to just jumper the wires together. If it's anything like earlier S30s, that I've worked on, the wires may have connectors of a type that you can just plug into each other.

Really? 5 hours? There's a name for people like that, they are referred to a "test pilots." People who for the most part want to drive a car around excessively, with little to no intent on buying the car. You'd never buy anything from me then... I don't know of any seller besides maybe a new car dealer that might even come remotely close to doing something like that. As a seller, it's a take it or leave it thing for me. In the case of an S30, it's a 40 year old car, with an engine that is likely as old, it's going to have quirks and small issues, and any buyer should be aware of that. The last time I sold a car I gave the prospective buyers the option to have a mechanic look at it, but if they wanted to waste my time by letting it sit over night and then for an hour for starts and drive it for an hour, I'd have told them to shove off, and they were friend's of friends, it was a 13 year old car, and told them everything it needed. Reliability will be like any other car, if it's well maintained, then it will last, neglect it, and it won't. The other things that will make something fail are poor tuning and getting too abusive with it. Do some homework on the way the swaps have been documented and compare to how it has been done. If you're mechanically inclined, a few things that are needing attention shouldn't scare you away from purchasing a car. In my experience, even poorly maintained cars can be made to be reliable with a little effort.

What you have will work fine. You just connected everything the hard way. The input block, has no current limiting, due to no fuse, obviously, and will transfer more current than the starter will ever pull. The only concern is the slightly increased resistance through extra connections between the battery and the starter. This will also be affected over time, by exposure to the elements, causing corrosion and increased resistance over time. I don't know why people want to use distro blocks that are meant for interior and audio installs under the hood.

Which is only a couple of reasons why I'm going to swap a previously FWD V6, into my S30. I currently have a turbo L28, FWIW.

In extreme cases, many people have cut headers and added bends/tubing to clear different items.

Do yourself a favour and buy the correct parts from a welding shop.

Gollum; One question, why does any swap make sense?

There are many books available on how make quality fibreglass parts. One that I use for reference is: http://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Composite-Materials-Forbes-Aird/dp/1557882398 I've made a few fibreglass hoods, and other parts. It can be rewarding, especially if the part you want is just simply not available, or you want something that is completely one off, but the work is not in laying up the part itself, the real work is in making the buck and the mold. When I made a hood for my '85 Buick Skyhawk, I had at least 40 hours into the buck, about another 6 or 7 into the mold, and it there were even steps skipped, since it was a one time use mold. Making the actual hood I have about 4 to 5 hours into.

For starters, many of the fittings for the regulator to the welding machine are usually of a type that have a tapered seat, these do not require any sealant, and if sealant is used on a fitting that does not require it, the sealant could cause leaks, because it may keep the tapered seat from sealing properly. NPT, and similar threads are the only ones that should use sealant on the threads themselves. Secondly, the shielding gas is at a much higher pressure than atmosphere around the tank, hose or welding machine, so you wouldn't get "air in your shielding gas," you would simply lose shielding, if there was a leak.

Evidently, you don't. Once a lock nut is tightened correctly, a tire rubbing against the TC rod will NOT cause it to loosen, if it does, the lock nut is not tightened.

Uhhh, why wouldn't you lock the TC rod where you did set it? This seems like a very dangerous way to drive your car around. A lock nut is there to keep the rod from moving in or out, and can be backed off to make further adjustments if need be. The (adjustable) TC rods could potential spin without any physical interference from other parts, just from the suspension moving they could spin. As far as limiting steering angle, I believe there are a couple bump stops on the lower strut tube or steering knuckle, that could have a bolt added to them to reduce steering angle, I'll have to look at one and refresh my memory.