Six_Shooter

Yeah, because other vehicles on the road don't have a weight split like that or worse.... FWD cars... Trucks... Most general passenger vehicles...

I plan to install a Ford 8.8 IRS in my 240, I have one sitting in my garage in parts right now, and another (that will be going under my GF's '65 Mustang), sitting at a friend's storage barn right now. I'll deal with the extra fabrication, to spend less than $300 on an LSD, wider selection of gears, which are easy to come by, and less parts overall between the diff and the wheel, making for possibly stronger assembly.

I haven't had to roll my fenders.

Post pictures of your green Z's. Any shade of green, I'm more partial to the limier greens, though.

He can use the dizzy he has, just add a GM HEI 7 or 8 pin Ignition Control Module. This will work with both MS and Delco. As far as MS goes, there's plenty of people here and elsewhere running the same or similar combo that can provide a very good file (MSQ I believe), that probably would not require much in the way of tuning. Also there are people around that can tune it for him, I'm pretty local, and would be willing to give pointers, and some help. If you're asking about my set-up, it's pretty much all in my build thread. Just quickly: -Delco ECM (Service Number 1227749) -GM DIS ignition (original conversion used a 280Z dizzy connected to a Delco 8 pin Ignition Module), This same DIS could be used with Megasquirt. -Modified code that was used in the turbo Sunbird and Syclone/Typhoon, to have some additional features. (www.code59.org) -Borg Warner 6.5L diesel Turbocharger -3 BAR MAP sensor -36 lbs/hr injectors -Walbro fuel pump -more parts and such, but not really relevant to the topic. All I'm suggesting is that because it seems to be difficult to source the factory original stuff, in good condition, or working order and getting harder by the day, that going to something that will all for more room to grow later would be best, since the stock EFI can only be used to support so much in the way of more boost, bigger injectors, intercooling, etc. There comes a point where a different system is needed. I haven't known ANYONE that has installed a stock turbo system and left it alone for the entire time they owned the car. The boost bug bites, and they need more, so it makes more sense to me to buy something now that will work in the long run, instead of buying it twice. Here is a picture of my car, with the dizzy shortly after the conversion, running on a Delco ECM: Hard to see the dizzy, but I was using it to trigger the GM ignition module. I locked out the mechanical advance, and just left the vacuum advance disconnected. The DIS works MUCH better though, and recommend it over any dizzy now.

Too bad you weren't closer I have 5 of them in my possession.

You could use some tubing cut to a good length to place between the spring perches to keep the body high enough. I think given the time line and the options, I would look at re-installing the suspension and using something as a spacer in place of the springs. You have to keep in mind you won't be driving it, so all that the "suspension" needs to do is support the while it's rolled onto and off the trailer, and kinda while it's on it. I say "kinda" only because once it's strapped down, nothing is going to move. You can get away with half the bolts holding it all in, half the lug nuts, maybe even less. There have been many tines I've moved junk/parts cars with only a few bolts holding this together/on, some have been moved a few hundred miles this way. On one car that I was scrapping, I welded pieces of angle iron between the body and the rear axle to support it, apparently the crusher strained just slightly when it was being crushed. lol

Seems like it would be much easier to go with a different ECM, like a MegaSquirt or Delco... Easier to source parts, and allow for tuning.

SWEET!

Wiring harness, climate controls volt gauge, tach and console are the major differences. I haven't verified it, but if you have a '73 the 280 harness may be pretty close to a plug in, I know there will be a difference in wiring for the ammeter vs volt gauge, but I know the plugs themselves are very similar.

Looks normal to me. The added flares may not be the same from side to side, causing it to look like the wheels are in different positions relative to the body work. If a quarter panel or wheel well was ever replaced, it could have been installed in a slightly different position than it was originally as well.

FWIW, I have 225/50ZR16s on my car, without coil overs and fit within the wheel wells. I did have to add 5mm spacers to the rear wheels to keep the old tires from rubbing on the spring perch, I haven't checked if I need them with the new tires yet (they've been on for about a month too, lol). Stock turbo Z31 wheels, so whatever size those are.

Then it should make for a great game. I like being able to freely roam around maps (tracks?). It kinda annoys me in some games that you can see areas, that want to go to, but the game will reset you to a playable area, or just not allow you to get there. I think that's why I got into Arkham Asylum and City so much. Dubstep is just over rated and all sounds pretty much the same, to me. There's a few tracks I can tolerate, but for the most part it just sounds like people trying too hard to be part of that genre, missing a lot of what makes music enjoyable. The Charlie the Unicorn Dubstep remix is pretty good. LOL

Completely not the type of game I was expecting from the Forza Franchise. I wonder though, is it Forza with street racing/rally-ish tracks, or an improved (hopefully) Need For Speed type game? There was no indication of cars, or at least what is driveable, usually Forza is quick to say "1 bazzilion driveable carzzz!!!" "5000 REAL worlds trackzzz!!!" and so on. Even though I've always preferred the Dirt series over Forza, I'll probably buy this, even if it's not as large as the Forza series games, meaning less selection in cars, as long as the vehicle dynamics are ported over from the Forza games, it should be a game worth playing. I'll be keeping an eye out for more info on this one. BTW, there is nothing "sick" about any Dubstep.

I use and like the 14point7.com products. I have used (and still use in one case) Innovate LC-1, I use the 14point7 SLC_DIY (version 1) for tuning other people's cars. I will be replacing my LC-1 with a 14point7 product. www.14point7.com

I've been using the Sportage seals for about 2 or 3 years now, they work MUCH better than the OEM type it seems, even new replacements, which seem to have incorrect dimensions. I didn't glue mine in place FWIW, just trimmed out the excess length.

There are two different bumper attachment points on the S30, early 240s used a higher mounting point, than the later 240Z ('73 only? Maybe early 260Z as well), that mounts lower, which looks like where you have attached. I don't recall where late 260 and 280Z mount the front bumpers. I haven't measured but the lower bumper mount points may be in line with the rear bumper mounts.

I tend to think that people don't truly understand what "OBO" means anymore. It seems to almost be something that is just automatically included after a price, because it's what other people have done since the beginning of time.

I don't see what stock or modified strut housing have to do with getting the car lower. Generally when someone says that a certain tire/wheel combo won't "tuck," it means that the wheel and tire won't physically fit into the wheel well. Knowing that many people go to coilovers simply for more room to fit wider wheels and tires it sounded very much like this is what you were trying to say. I wouldn't make a blanket statement that X tire and Q wheel, won't tuck, simply because of unrelated K part. There's more than one way to skin a cat, and lower a Z car.

Must be nice to be in an area where they still allow flat towing. Around here, it's pretty frowned upon, even behind campers, where a dolly that has brakes is preferred.

Coilovers won't move his wheels or tires in from where they are now. He would have to repalce the wheels with wheels of a different offset to have that make any sense. FWIW, I run 225/50/16s on my 240Z and while they don't "tuck," because I'm not lowered that much, they don't hit or rub on the fenders or any other part of the suspension/chassis. I did have to add 5mm spacers to the rear wheels to move the tires away from the spring perches, but they are still within the wheel well. The funny part is that it was only one of my old tires that touched, the other (a different brand, although same metric size) didn't rub. I haven't checked since I got my new tires installed if that rubbing is an issue anymore. These are the old tires, I really need to get some new pictures: I did the 5 lug conversion using the stock 300ZX hub and rotor, and drilling the stock 240Z stub axles for the 5 lug pattern. The wheels are stock Z31 turbo wheels.

Two words: Electric winch.

I too have one.

Even the newest GM diagnositic connector is commonly referred to as an "ALDL" (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link). I use a program called Tuner Pro RT (www.tunerpro.net), it has been developed by a single guy over at least the last 10 years, current version in V5, one of the best interfaces I have seen, especially when using the OBD1 GM EFI, and will work with many other manufacturers, including Ford, BMW, Nissan, etc. It's basically a shell program that you load certain files to that tell the program where to look at in the bin files and how to interpret the incoming diagnostic links, so possibilities are virtually endless, especially when coupled with tuning devices from moates.net. Personally I use an OBD1 GM ECM (1227749) in my 240Z, running $59 (www.code59.org). I use GM EFI for many conversions as well.

Wasn't knocking your set-up, I had an idea to add a gauge to my LC-1 as well after the failed to communicate USB to Serial converters were discovered, but just made more sense to replace the entire controller. I've been very happy with my SLC_DIY. I haven't even begun using it's capabilities, mostly because I tune GM EFI, which has many other parameters that are displayed through the ALDL connection on my laptop, just true AFR is not one of them (except with certain custom code), so I really just need an AFR display. I may need to tap into some of it's capabilities though with some of the possible cars that people want me to tune for them. Also check out the brand new iDash, if I wasn't planning to go to college starting in the fall, I'd so be all over getting one of those.