Six_Shooter

The cap won't have the full dimensions, as in it won't have the full gauge recesses, and may not have the full top or go very far under the dash to be accurate. Also wanted to mention, the 260Z dash is different than the 240Z dash. The 260Z dash is like the 280Z dash.

I did something similar with one of my LC-1s... I didn't add a gauge to it, since I planned to use LogWorks with it. After changing to Windoze7, my Serial to USB converters decided they no longer wanted to communicate, so I sold the one in the pictures above, I have one still installed in my car, but will be selling at the end of the year, works fine, just pulling the car off the road for various reasons. When it goes back on the road it will likely have the updated unit of what I replaced that LC-1 with: SLC_DIY V1 from 14point7.com. The V1 is no longer available, and the only real difference between V1 and V2, is V2 is pre-assembled, just needs the harness pinned and assembled. I actually enjoyed assembling the V1 kit, took about 4 hours. The SLC_DIY has multiple inputs, that can be used with pretty much an sensor available, onboard RPM input, built in display, that can be cycled between AFR, RPM, boost (when the MAP sensor is installed) and one other display, I believe V2 is the same. This also has native USB connetion, no serial to USB converter needed. There is also the SLC_PURE PLUS 2, that has all the same features, but comes with a pre assembled harness, warranty, and onboard datalogging. You'll be amazed at the pricing. I use my SLC_DIY V1 for tuning other people's cars, use it as a portable unit, that stays in my tuning bag. I wish I knew about 14point7.com before I bought my LC-1s.

Yes, there are some systems that do actually have "self" or "auto" tuning (not the T-pain "auto-tuning" lol). The issue is, that the auto-tuning ECMs only have target numbers in tables to go by, these are theorectical tables, that may work for one engine, but not another, which is why I still prefer to tune "manually." I have a friend that decided to install a F.A.S.T. EZ-EFI system on his Nova recently. He's had less than stellar results with it, which I will partly blame on who installed it, since that shop has a very bad track record when it comes to getting things right on the 2nd or even 3rd time a vehicle goes back to them. The results seem to be on par with what I've read across the forums discussing that same system, seems great at first, then realize that it doesn't perform up to expectations. I've seen similar results from people using "VE fixers" and other (usually) Excel based table corrections, where the VE tables get to look more like mountains than a smooth table, and cause driveability issues. The code I use has an Excel based "Auto-Tune" feature, but don't use it, because it's shooting for a theoretical "perfect" number, and sometimes it seems to miss filtering out some of the data, where AE (Accel Enrichment), PE (Power Enrichment), DE (Decel Enleanment) and DFCO (Decel Fuel Cut Off) are skewing the data. There are times when this same issue comes up using an OEM ECM, such as the Delco, when certain parts, like a cam have been swapped to a much larger, and/or longer duration, where the exhaust mixture at idle, will be "rich" in the tail pipe, due to the open valve overlap. If there is no open loop idle, then the ECM will try to lean out the mixture until either the engine stalls, or the ECM decides there is a problem, usually throwing a check engine light, and giving a "rich exhaust" code. This is because the ECM is trying to target a specific number, in the case of the Delco, a BLM of 128, which is equal to the stoich setting in the bin (14.7:1 for gas, OEM BIN files). This is why it's so important to tune a system properly, and when need be, use an open loop idle, along with some other tricks. I run my car open loop 100% of the time, at first it was just so that I could tune the set-up (tuning in closed loop can be very difficult and cause a tuner to chase their tail on getting it right), then I just left it that way. This way I can also run lean on the highway, I'm usually running between 15.2 and 16.5:1 when in steady state cruise. Another friend of mine that I have been tuning for (1971 Cutlass, with custom 4bbl TBI, and electronic trans) have his set to open loop 100% of the time, mostly due to his very large "non-EFI friendly) camshaft. We also found that stabbing the go pedal from idle or just off idle was better in open loop as well.

I'm not arguing semantics, your wording is endowing the ECM with a function it is simply not capable of. The term "Self Tuning" implies that the ECM will make changes and adjustments to say the VE table to adjust how much fuel is injected at a certain load and RPM, and not just trimming, but actually change that value in that cell. This would also imply that the ECM will be able to change it's own calibration, without any human input for other changes, mechanical changes, such as installing larger injectors, or changing the camshaft(s), or installing heads with different flow characteristics, or installing headers, etc. The Delco ECM simply can not self adjust for these. The fuel trim that the Delco ECM does provide are very small changes, and ONLY while in "closed loop." Closed loop being once the O2 sensor is warmed up, and the engine temperature has reached a certain threshold, that the ECM will use the O2 sensor input to adjust fuel delivery. So all that time while the engine is still cool and the O2 sensor is not yet switching, the engine is running off the pre-programmed maps, so if there have been mechanical changes made, the ECM won't be able to attempt to compensate for them at start up. Here is the PW calculation for what is used in the Turbo Sunbird, Syclone, Typhone and some DOHC I4 applications: BPW = BPC * MAPP * T' * A/F' * VE * F33C * BLM * DFCO * DE * CLT * F77 Where: BPW = Base Pulse Width BPC = Base Pulse Constant Term MAPP = Manifold Pressure Term T' = Inverse Temperature Term A/F' = Inverse Air Fuel Ratio Term VE = Volumetric Efficiency Term F33C = Battery Voltage Correction Term BLM = Block Learn Correction Term DFCO = Decel Fuel Cutoff Term DE = Decel Enleanment Term CLT = Closed Loop Correction Term F77 = Turbo Boost Multiplier (taken from the "Turbo_P4_doc") As you can see BLM, is only part of the equation, and after the VE table cells have been used in the equation. Other Delco ECMs use similar, if not the same formula for injector PW, or "BPW." Mass Air systems will use LV8 in place of MAPP. Hybrid systems that use both MAP and MAF, will use the MAF for fueling and the MAP for spark timing control, along with using either input for a multitude of other functions. So for an ECM to be "Self Tuning" it would have to actually take the BLM (among other parameters), and change what is in the VE table, not just adjust it farther along in the formula. The BLM (and INT) are not saved as tables either, they are instant values (8-bit value to be technical) that are adjusting the next injection pulse, to get the air fuel ratio to either be stoich, or swing through stoich, as the Delco ECM does, when a proper tune has been established. Also when you move the throttle past a certain threshold, the Delco system goes "open loop", and reverts to the VE MAP as it is, as long as the BLM was at or above 128, then it uses the BLM value of 128 in the BPW formula, if the BLM was below 128 then it uses the value that the BLM was at when entering WOT OL and PE mode. Some Delco systems even use Open Loop idle, or have the option in the programming to do so, so again, the BLM would have no effect on the BPW in this case, negating any learned BPW adjustment. I don't know what this "BOSS" system has to do with the discussion on Delco ECMs "self-tuning," other than trying to dance around the fact that you're using a poor choice of words, or you just simply don't understand how it works and are trying to twist the discussion. Even in "lay-man's terms" what you are saying is incorrect. "Most people" understand that an ECM, especially an OEM ECM can not "self-tune," but they can easily understand that it can make minor adjustments. A correct term or string of words would be "Able to make minor adjustments."

The headlights get removed through the wheel well, not from the candy scoop side. Look in the wheel well, and you will see 3 or 4 screws (I don't recall exact number), that hold the headlight bucket in place.

The warning switch block has no proportioning properties whatsoever. The fact that the plunger will slide to the circuit that has lost pressure is not an indication of proportioning.

+1 I agree with both of you.

LT1 PCMs are NOT "self tuning." The long term and short term adjustments are just simple fuel trims, based on O2 feedback, called BLM (Block Learn Memory, "long" term) and INT (Integrator, short term). INT adjustments are pretty much instant and finer than the BLM, BLM, adjusts once the INT hits a certain threshold for a length of time, and is much corser of an adjustment. LT1 PCMS are NOT "self tuning." All Delco ECMs have used the fuel trims based on O2 feedback from the early '80s, if it has an O2 sensor, it uses the same fuel trim algorithm , but is not "self tuning." It is "self adjusting," or better yet "Self-Trimming." "Self Tuning" would be making adjustments directly to the fuel tables, adjusting the numbers in the "VE table" or MAF counts tables, not just making trims. This would be self programming of the PROM or flash memory, which none of the OEM Delco ECM/PCMs do. The "long term" adjustments really are quite short, these are relative terms, meaning that the INT adjustment is shorter in time (almost instantly) to adjust than the BLM ("long term"), which can change every few seconds. The O2 feedback of the Delco systems is simply a fuel trim that is added or subtracted from the injector pulse width calculation, this is not the same as "self tuning." This is meant for adjustments where fuel grade might change, altitude changes, air temp changes (where an IAT or MAT sensor doesn't change the PW enough), environment (some areas will be higher in un-burned fuels than others, I've watched a buddies rich running car that was in front of me effect the way my engine ran, also shown by the O2 sensor feedback), EGR contribution and anythng else that might effect the air fuel ratio, that would require trimming or adding fuel in an instantaneous or almost instantaneous manner. We haven't even gotten into the Spark Advance (SA) tables yet, where the O2 has no effect on, since there are no trims in the same manner as the O2 feedback, but there is a knock sensor that will retard timing based on engine harmonics, that the sensor and knock filter report as "knock." BTW, I'm quite familiar with Delco ECMs, and how they function. I have an OBD1 GM ECM running my Turbo L28, using DIS with a code that did not originally use it, I mention that because it required changing some parameters in the bin file itself to have proper timing relative to the crank, which is different than what a dizzy ignition needs, due to the way GM designed differently in the DIS ignitions. I have been running this for about 4 years on my own car. I've tuned and helped tune many other GM vehicles, that use a multitude of different service numbers and codes, in both originally equipped vehicles and most commonly conversions.

Easiest way to get the tach to work is to get a late 280Z tach, they were points triggered tachs.

Can I have the GM Service Number and BCC of this self tuning GM ECM?

From the FAQ section: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/47601-z-virtual-tape-measure/

Given the choice between carbs (any), '70s EFI, and more modern EFI (including '80s technology), I'd take the more modern EFI, for driving performance, ability to be tuned easily, with more points of adjustment to have the least amount compromise, ability to be serviced easily and more adaptable to different applications. That being said I do love the sound of engines with one carb barrel per cylinder, or mechanical stack type injection, but prefer the ease of use and service of modern EFI.

You can use a newer O2 sensor, the output will be the same as the older O2 sensors (transfer function), but will still be a narrow band O2 sensor. The only cars that I know for sure that use WBO2 sensor from the OEM, are some late model Volkswagons (don't know exact models), and late model Honda Civic (2008 Si for sure, a friend of mine has one). Regardless of what the original application was for the WBO2 sensor, you still need a controller for it, which is where the aftermarket WBO2 sensor controllers come into play. For a few inexpensive WBO2 options look at 14point7.com, from basic controller, to extra inputs, to extra inputs with onboard datalogging. I use one (SLC_DIY v1) when I tune other people's vehicles. I have an LC1 in my car currently, that I will be replacing with a 14point7.com unit, most likely the SLC_DIY v2, when I get around to it.

Nice, very mean looking.

The issue with the trigger pattern I was saying was with the stock Jeep crank trigger pattern, it looks like it has 4 notches in 3 groups, which will not work with a GM ICM. Any of the electronic Datsun Dizzies, except the turbo dizzy should work. I haven't seen any difference in trigger patterns in electronic dizzies. I used a either a '78 280Z or an '81 280ZX dizzy early in my conversion that triggered a GM 8 pin ICM. The only modification I made to the dizzy was locking out the mechanical advance. When I swapped to DIS, I was glad I did, idle smoothed out a lot, and acceleration also got much smoother. Here is a quick video shortly after I swapped in the DIS:

I have a 1" Z31 Brake master cylinder, that I would like to use on S30, I had it on there once, but didn't work as I had wanted it to, so I am using the original 7/8" master currently. What I would like to do is bypass the proportioning valve that is built into the master cylinder. I have an external adjustable proportioning valve that I want to use instead. When I removed the glued on cap to try and remove the prop valve, I was greeted with what looks like a nut that has two holes, so no standard tools here. I tried making a tool out of some metal doweling a 6.5 diesel pushrod, but the doweling is too soft and just bends. A friend of mine and I tried using some punches, clamped together, and twisting them did not release this plug. Is it a left handed thread? Any other ideas for a tool to remove this plug?

Yes you can, people like to complicate things around here... The old school way was to use the 2-step module, and an MSD 6AL, there are newer ingition boxes though that have 2 steps built in, though they seem less reliable, than the older units. Unfortunatly the new 6AL doesn't allow for plug in limiter chips, and a different way would need to be employed, IIRC MSD used to have a limiter device that would get connected to bwteen the dizzy and the ignition box, intercepting the points trigger wire. Spend some time on the MSD (and other ignition manufacturers) websites, look for "2-step" or "multi-stage limiters", anything that will allow a high RPM limit and a low limit, usually activated by a switch.

LOLWUT? An MSD "2-step" is a simple ignition system addition, used with an MSD ignition that allows an engine to rev to a certain RPM for consistant launches. I really have no idea where you got this idea about needing drive by wire throttle bodies and a different engine, etc.

I looked through Hesco, but could only find ChryCo and Accel EFI being sold there. I looked through your site, and your speculation of the Jeep pattern being adaptable to a GM ECM will not work, at least not with the OBD1 GM EFI. The dizzy ICM (Ignition Control Module) needs to be triggered, by the reluctor, that is located with the dizzy iteself, with even spacing and when each cylinder is at TDC, or rather, when the rotor is pointing at the cap terminal for each cylinder. Where these events happen, in relation to TDC, has more to do with base timing than where the actual TDC is. In other words, if you set the dizzy to 0* advance, then the ICM will be triggered when the cylinder is at TDC, but if you set the base timing to 10* advance, the ICM will be triggered 10* BTDC. This trigger event is only seen directly by the ICM, but the ICM will send what is known as a DRP (Distributer Reference Pulse) to the ECM, so that the ECM knows that the engine is running and at what RPM. These DRPs happen at the same time (or very close to, sometimes there can be some latency), as the trigger from the reluctor in the dizzy that triggers the ICM. When it comes to DIS, the trigger wheel and pattern is different. For some of the GM DIS systems, they use a "7x" wheel (60 degree V6, early I4), that has 6 equally spaced notches, and 1 that is placed 50* before TDC #1 IIRC. This extra notch is known as the "home notch" and lets the DIS ICM know where in the firing order the engine is. Other GM DIS systems, may use a 9x wheel (LT5), or a very complicated wheel with unevenly spaced notches (52 of them IIRC), that based on the spacing and when the two crank position sensors are triggered (Northstar), lets the ICM know where in the firing order the engine is. 3.8L Buick based V6 is different again, regardless of what the tooth pattern is, the ICM sends the same signal to the ECM, "DRP," so that the ECM knows that the engine is running and at what speed. The ICM conditions the trigger signals it gets to send equally timed (basd on steady state RPM) to the ECM. The GM ICM is a pretty complicated device and very neat in what it's abilities are.

I have some detail, though brief, in my build thread, look there and I can answer any specific questions you may have.

A lot of GM compressors from the mai '80s to the mid '90s were like that.

I'm using GM EFI on my turbo L28, have been for about 4 years.

The way I read that is that there are a lot of people in this thread violating that rule, for ragging on what someone sees as a cosmetic improvement, the extreme lowering. It's in the same class putting a Vellarossa body kit on an S30, trying to make it look higher performance than it is or at least look like something that it is not. It's obvious that these extreme lowered S30s get used, and driven, I don't know how anyone can debate that, especially with the previously extremely lowered S30, that also received a lot of negative attention from this site, and every month or so new pictures would pop up with that car in a new location, some where it was being driven. In the article that started this thread, there are several pictures showing that car is getting driven, so to debate whether you can actually drive the car or not is absurd, it can be and is being driven. Whether you like the car or not is no reason to assume that it's not functional. Not everyone that owns an S30 wants to drive it at over 100 MPH, or race it, or time attack with it. I would imagine that there are a majority of S30 owners that have NEVER been on a track with their car on this very site, yet they install all of these race car and high performance modifications, I guess they should all be kicked off the site for not actually "using" their cars then, eh?

I don't see why avoiding pot holes is a bad thing? I do it and my cars don't sit that low... I thought this was "HybridZ", not "Youcarmustsitatleast8"offthegroundZ"?

If you're talking about the rounded cylinder part, with the pulley on it, attached to the left front cylinder head, that would be the AC compressor. He could have moved that engine farther back by using RWD manifolds. Even if he used a FWD version of that engine, I don't know why he would have used the FWD manifolds. RWD headers are even pretty cheap for them.