Six_Shooter

For once I agree with Tony D. Being light is good and all, but sometimes having the creature comforts and spending some time on making more power can make for a much more enjoyable vehicle. I know I now add the sound deadener, and carpet, and interior panels, and work on getting more power, because I enjoy it more than when I had stripped down vehicles.

The reaction disc is a little hard rubber disc inside the booster, between the lever that attaches to the pedal and the pushord that pushes on the back of the master cylinder. I believe there are some pictures in one of the Brake FAQ threads.

Definateley not Subtle Z front fenders. They look like modified YZ (ZY?) fenders. They are far too wide to be Subtle Z fenders.

Yes, I checked the reaction disc, a few times. The symptom is different though, there's not a lot of pedal travel, before it engages, there's very little pedal travel before the brakes engage, and then a very short amount of stroke before the brakes lock up, it wasn't completely undriveable, just had to think about how much I pushed on the brake pedal. I have a few ideas to look at and try. I want to gut the prop valve that is in the master cylinder so that I can use my Allstar prop valve for adjustment, which is not related to the touchy brakes, just something I want to do.

You mean the pushrod? Yes, I tried adjusting that a few times. That shouldn't effect any touchiness, just proper adjustment of the engagement to the master.

I don't have the brakes you have, but I do have the stock 7/8" master on my car with Z31 300ZX front brakes (rotors and calipers), and 300ZX/280ZX/Maxima rear brakes (300ZX rotors turned down 1cm, 280ZX calipers) The 7/8" master has a (slightly) spongy feeling, I installed a 300ZX 1" master, but had a very opposite problem, extremely touchy brakes. Bled several times, all new fluid each time, tried changing the pedal ratio, nothing really got rid of how touchy it was. I'm still trying to figure out how to cure that. There may be an issue with the master, or something I may have missed, because I have seen another S30 locally that also used a Z31 master cylinder, but not entirely sure of the calipers he used, I can't imagine that anyone would put up with a touchy brake system. For now I'm back to the 7/8" master, since it's much easier to modulate and use, than the 1" master I tried. My car is a '73 FWIW.

Wow, that was a pretty long crash sequence. Stuff like that is part of why I just don't enjoy many Hollywood car chases anymore, too fake, especially with the car blowing up (at all), and only AFTER it comes to a complete stop, like an explosion can only happen with non-moving objects.

Right now, my battery is in the stock location, as was all of the other vehicles I've had Optimas in, ok, well my Jimmy wasn't exactly a stock location, since I moved the battery from the passenger side of the engine to the driver side, but still considered "stock location." The batteries I will be trying are small enough that I can put them anywhere. I am thinking behind the seats on that little ledge, I have a couple other places in mind, since they are so small. I need to do some teasting before making any brackets or doing any wiring though, to make sure they'll do what I need them to do. For some reason my larger wrenches liked to find their way to touching both battery terminals.

I use Optima red tops, I have since about 1994, I've only had one die on me after about 8 years of abuse. By abuse I mean running dead several times, shortIng out a few times, moved between several vehicles, etc. It had a dead cell (rest voltage was about 10v) it still started my tired carbed V6. The only reason I replaced it when I did was because it was getting to be winter and if the engine didn't catch the first time it may not have started on a second crank, and since I hate being out in the winter cold, I decided not to chance it. The yellow top is not recommended as a starting battery, it is designed as a deep cycle battery, and when used as a starting battery, they tend to have a short life. I also find that people that say that Optimas are "junk" use the battery in tye wrong application. There are also factory seconds sold through companies like Walmart, Sam's Club and similar places that many people bought and experienced problems with that also gave the brand a bad name. So use the proper battery for the use, and a factory first, along with proper maintenance and care, for a battery that lasts and works. I'm going to test a different kind of battery, hopefully this year, just due to size and ability to place the weight where I want it. It's an AGM (applied glass mat) battery that has worked well for me in audio systems in the past.

If you look or feel the bottom of the septum, you will see/feel a small space between it and the bottom of the tank. The fuel will flow through this small space. I haven't set up my venting system, with only using the upper vent yet, but it is what I plan to do with mine, and can't foresee any problems, based on previous (non-S30) fuel fillers I've set-up.

LOL

I have two clips, one was just before I started pulling the carbs off for the turbo/EFI upgrade, and one is after the Turbo/EFI and DIS was added. They sound(ed) better in person. N/A, carburetted: After turbo, EFI and DIS:

So when you put a load on the engine it won't rev? The engine revs, but there is no power transfer through the tranny to the wheels? You're going to have to describe it much better.

It's not something I would worry about. It's not going to cause a fluid leak, it's not a structural part of the case. About the only thing I would do is take a die grinder to it to smooth out the look, but even then, it's just cosmetic.

Here is a pic of mine from a few years ago, I have since cut the "tip" shorter. Moroso Spiroflow, full 3" exhaust.

I thought I posted pictures of mine in this thread already, but I just went back through and didn't see any pictures of mine, so here it is: Another Brown and Boosted S30... This is when I first installed my turbo and EFI, technically, this isn't an intercooled set-up in these first pictures, since I was simply running a bypass pipe across the front of the rad, since I hadn't got a change to make my IC at that point. I did have my BOV attached to it, at the front left corner of the car, just in front of the rad support. Just a couple pictures of the IC (BOV?) piping running under and around the engine, yes I need to weld some of the tubes together and get rid of some of those couplers... Move along a couple years (I really slacked on making the IC, even though I had most of the material for a long while): Mitsu BOV: I've changed the plumbing a bit at the IC/rad support. I was really trying to keep the IC tubing going through the lower holes in the rad support, but it just wasn't a nice as I'd have liked, so I moved to using both the upper holes, where the vent pieces were. I also have an IC from Mishmoto, that I'm going to try, It's a cross flow, but with the fitment I did on another S30, it looks like I can change the IC piping to be more like how I want it to be.

The reason your don't see the Type2 or Type3 kit with flares is because those kits wrap into the wheel wells, and would make it difficult to bolt on a set of flares with those body kit pieces. It seems that many people either don't want to modify one or both parts (body kit and/or flares) to fit with each other, or they just follow in other people's foot steps of using ZG flares with the early bumpers, or no bumper.

Is it wrong that a picture makes me salivate? I think I have found my colour, thanks for posting.

The change was in '73. The proportioning valve was moved to the firewall, due to a change in the design, that used the pressure from the right front brake to control the rear brake pressure proportionally to that front brake.

They apply to any vehicle transporting substances. I don't understand why someone would want to make their nitrous bottle look like anything other than a nitrous bottle.

The problem with that is, there are usually specific labels, that are to quickly identify the contents of the container, in the case of an emergency situation. Besides, who installs a 10 lbs fire extinguisher in their vehicle? Funny somewhat related and true story, a friend of mine has a very nice 1972 Cutlass, the he mounted a real fire extinguisher in the trunk, about a 2 lbs unit. Some import kid comes along and says: "That's an awesome idea... paint the naws bottle to look like a fire extinguisher." :facepalm: He doesn't have nitrous on his car. Less related, people seem to think he has nitrous because of the 4 TBI injectors mounted above his throttle body. :doublefacepalm:

Until you have someone that thinks you actually have a fire extinguisher and needs one... Also in some areas that are fines for having mislabled chemicals.

When I installed my prop valve a few months ago, I made two short lines, one from the brake light warning block, that had the metric fitting on that end, and an SAE fitting to attach to the prop valve, and again another short tube, with the same arrangement, that then attached to an M10xM10 coupler where the OEM prop valve was (1973 240Z) on the firewall. Mine is an ALLstar performance item. http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=365 I got the metric coupler from my local NAPA. I can't say enough good things about the hydraulic flaring tool I bought a couple years ago, so much easier to use than the manual types, and so far, I have not had a bad flare from it, where as I would occasionally get a bad flare using my manual flaring tools, even when I took all precautions, speaking of which I should get rid of those manual versions... lol

...And the end result in any of the debates has been, put it where it fits. I have yet to see any conclusive results of qny testing that shows one location to be better than another for a BOV.

The adapters are for the companion flange, not the diff.