Six_Shooter

I'm also not one for digital gauges, but that DOES look nice. I like it!

HAHAHAHA, nice. BTW, you said "Zed" wrong. Unfortunatly I only see this thread going downhill from here.

I replied to your PM, let me know if that helps clear up why there will be 12V shown on teh negitive terminal with it disconnected from the battery. Simply, yes there is always a small drain on the battery with the battery connected to the car.

Is this with the negitive terminal disconnected from the battery? If it is, then that's normal.

If you're not using an MSD ignition box, yes you should have 12V on the positive connection with the ignition switch turned on. Pull out the installation instructions for your coil or look on www.msdignition.com for the owners manual which should have the specifications of the what the primary and secondary coils should read for resistance. You will need a decent DMM for these tests.

Yes, you can start with the N/A harness, when using the MS, since the harness will get modified anyway. From what I see most people go to SD (Speed Density) when using the MS. This would eliminate the AFM. It would also be best to swap to a throttle position sensor, as opposed to the throttle position switch that L6 uses. Using the position sensor, you will have control over many different ranges of throttle position instead of just idle and WOT parameters of the original position switch. With the MS you would be able to add ECM controlled boost, if you wanted with the use of a GM boost control solenoid, along with a LOT of different options along the way. If I were in your shoes, I'd likely go MS.

Jusat updating that the 1980 L6 has the later style T-stat housing, so at this point we can confirm that 1980 to 1983 use the "later" 3 bolt T-stat housing.

Sweet, that's pretty much what I wanted to hear. I'll be running an F54/P90 combo, N47 intake, with very little bit of work, shooting for around the same boost pressure, and my power goals are close to what you have done.

For actual parts there are a few different ways to go. You can use all OEM L28ET parts, intake manifold, injectors, exhaust manifold, turbo, down pipe, J-pipe, and all the little related parts like the Oil pressure sender adaptor/T-fitting. Electronic parts I will cover in a minute. These have been proven to work, and work reliably, hell there were thousands of these cars made, and many of them with proper care and maintenace have lived a very long and reliable life. You can use some f he OEM parts, and mix in others, like many people do, they add an FMIC, and a BOV, to help keep the intake temps down and reduce any possible turbo stall issues that may come up, or at least reduce the chances. I'm sure some people do it for the sound too. You can go all out with all custom parts, custom manifold(s), custom piping, custom fuel system, etc. You can be anywhere inbetween. Myself, I'm using a stock L28ET exhaust manifold, and cam cover. My intake manifold is an N47 EGR/non-webbed that I'm cleaning up and do a very little bit of internal work to. The turbo I'm using is from a 6.5L turbo diesel GM, took a bit of work to make that fit. IC will be a custom deal where I'm starting with two Ford Turbocoupe IC cores, exhaust and all cold side piping will be custom. The only parts of the original fuel system I'm using are the tank and feed line that will be seeing duties as the new return line. This is just one example, there ae many more on this site, in all different variations. As far as electronic controls there are a few options: OEM, this will require the turbo engine harness from what I read, the turbo ECU and the turbo AFM, since it's calibrated diferently than the N/A version and has an extra switch IIRC. Again this has proven to work and be quite reliable, especially at stock boost/power levels. A lot of people use MegaSquirt with much success, read through the Mega Squirt tuning forum for more details on that. If you realy wanted to could get into many of the more expensive aftermarket engine control systems out there, like Haltech, AEM, FAST, Big Stuff 3, SDS, Holley Projection, Accell DFI, and many more. These are costly options but they are there, and each system will offer different advantages and compromises. Myself I'm using a GM (service number 1227749) ECM, with a custom hacked code ($59 www.code59.org) that extends the original fueling and spark tables along with 3 BAR MAP sensor support. You have to look at all or most of the options and then decided with way is best for you. If this is your first dive into something like this and it sounds that way, you may be more comfortable swapping in all OEM L28ET parts, to get an understanding of what parts are needed and even a little bit of why. This will give you a good base to start from and then modify or change parts out from there.

I am currently installing a Walbro 255 L/hr (GL392 IIRC) on my '73, I'll post pictures later if you like. I made a new mount for the pump, since I didn't like ow far into the wheel weel the line would be if I had use the original electric fuel pump mount (looks like it was that 1973 dealer add-on pump and mount). I am leaving the original lines in place, using the originla feed for return, since it's 5/16", and added a new feed line of 3/8" I removed the drian plug from the tank, ran a 1/4" NPT tap into the drain hole and then added a 90* fitting that would then accept the 3/8" double flare line. I know other people that have used this pump or the intank version with quite a bit of success. I bought mine from expressfuelpumps.com , or expresspumps.com I can get the actual URL later.

Specs on what is done to the engine? turbo, parts, etc? If you have a thread, I would be interested to peruse that.

I don't know how good the lateral traction is, but everyone that drag radial races swears by MTs (Mickey Thompson) Drag Radials. Next on the list is the BFG drag radials. Apparently the Nittos are just terrible by all accounts.

I actually LOLed. A story of a Z of a different sort, a Z24, that a friend of mine owns that has a built 3400 V6 in it, has been told by more than a few people that the 3400 was never offered in an Impala, the car the engine block and heads originally cam from, and that it's a Beretta. The guy is a GM tech, I would think he knows a thing or two about the car HE built.

LOL. While I can't send you in a specific direction to find these wheels, I know I have seen similar design wheels and look every bit as sexy.

While talking with Rick Scott from Brantford Nissan today, we think we have the problem figured out. I don't have the Tokico gland nuts and so the nuts I have (maybe stock) are a bit different and don't take up the little bit of play. Simple washer or shim seems to be what I need.

Thanks for the link. From what I have read, the 240/early 260 strut does not need the oil, it appears to be a late 260/280 deal. Besides oil wouldn't take up this slack. Yep I was thinking the same, some sort of spacer under the strut insert.

Yes, I've tried the search. I didn't find an answer to my question, I also didn't see any mention of it. Car: 1973 240Z Struts: Tokico Blues, I'll get the model number if need be. I dissassmbled my stock front struts, it looked like the gland nut was crossthreaded, but the threads appear fine, so I think it may have just been dirt build up. Anyway. I started to install my strut insert and once I hand tightend the gland nut, I found there was quite a bit of space for the strut insert to move up and down in the tube. looked at the old strut insert, and a found a washer on the top, great thought that would take up the slack. Nope, there's still some space. I compared the body of each strut insert and found the Tokico strut insert to be shorter. Original strut insert fits and does not have any slack to move up and down with the gland nut hand tightened. For anyone that has come accross this, have you just added another washer and call it good? Ideas? I haven't made it to the rear yet, I want to take care of one problem before opening a can of another. I really need to install these since it seems the old ones are trash.

Does anyone have new links to the pictures? All seem to be broken in this thread. The idea of logging and possibly tuning on a PDA is quite interesting as I am looking for a way to convert my bike to EFI, and need something small to work with or from, at least for datalogging purposes.

Are you planning on running between 30 and 45 PSIG boost? If not, I would suggest a lower BAR MAP sensor. 2 BAR is good up to 15 PSIG, 3 BAR up to 30 PSIG. I'm not sure how well the MS handles the higher BAR map sensors, but resolotuion of idle and low RPM cruise vacuum situations will be lower with a higher BAR MAP sensors, due to less electrical range available, provided the voltage range.

If you are getting an un-assembled MS, I would suggest the Stimulator to verify function during/after assembly.

Reading comprension pwnz joo..... The shipping weight is 5 lbs, as what the combined items physically weigh when shipped. The mechanical pull strength is between 2.5 to 5 lbs. The two properties are NOT related by any stretch of the imagination. How do I know this? I work with this stuff for a living.

That's a good picture, funny but serious at the same time. I worry about that when I'm in my cage, and traveling some twisty roads around here. There is one especially that's not all that twisty, but the bends and twists that is does have are pretty fun and even better if you could cut the corners, probably is that half the corners crest hills or are blind. So I always stay in my lane. I still worry about other drivers though.

I wouldn't even think of using that system in the link to pop doors. It is using door lock actuators that are rated at around 2.5 to 5 lbs pull, not nearly enough to pop good working doors reliably.

Well, thanks to jbk240z, we can establish that 1978 has the "early" style T-stat housing. He sent me a couple pictures last night of the T-stat housing from a 1978 280Z.

Yeah that definatly looks like the "later" style T-stat housing would solve my issues, I'm also thinking that I will need to shorten the rail just a bit, to gain a tad more clearance. By looking at the "extreme close up" picture of the T-stat housing (thanks hughdogz), it looks like that bolt boss could be cut off and smoothed out to gain a bit more clearnce for the fittings as well. So it looks like anyone converting to EFI, and using an O-ring rail would have thier best results using the "later" T-stat housing. I'm sure for most people this wouldn't be or hasn't been an issue, because it seems that anyone making this conversion is doing so from an existing (stock) EFI system, that it seems should have (I hate to ass-u-me again) the 3 bolt T-stat housing.