Six_Shooter

I was just about to suggest that quench may be the problem. I'm not familar with the pistons you are using or the combustion chamber shape in the head, but I know that if the quench is good, then fuel can get down around the side of the piston above the top ring, and once ignited cause the piston to slam against the side of the cylinder. *edit* Do you have a knock sensor on your engine?

No, there isn't a way to reshape fibreglass after it cures. The shape must be made when it it is layed up.

I didn't see thier dual gauges. Neat.

My vote is suicide... They go on just about anything. Lambos only suit certain cars. I'll admit the picture of that read car the lambo doors do look better than I thought they would.

I did something similar with my car a few months ago. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135127 I'm now switching back to the stock tach, and Auto Meter gauges in the triple location, because the shift light I had set-up was too hard to see (the LEDs in the tach), and didn't like the tach I used. If I got one of those Auto Meter shift light with digital tach deals I might like it more, but would still mount that on top of the dash like I'm doing now. It turns out I really do like a large tach.

This one was better! http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=WlyutqyFrjY&feature=related

More ugly?

Looking at that car makes me almost want to paint my car white.

After looking closer I'd have to agree with you. Holy cheese, Batman!

The yellow/red is ignition, as in 12V switched ignition. The black is ground. The loop is a current sensing circuit, that will need to be ran as a loop from the dizzy through this loop and back to the coil IIRC. Mine used to be like that, until I put a points type tach in. If I recall the EZ wire kits, they assume a points trigger to the tach, and would likely be easiest to replace your existing tach with one from a 260 or 280Z.

Yeah and it works well, just need to up the idle a little, since I have the smallest pulley available on it. Well there might be one that I could adapt, but I think th ebelt wrap might get to be too little at that point.

I think I got it backwards, I think mine is a CS then, the case is one that would have been used on a 2.0L OHC Sunbird.

According to the news this morning there were 60 injuries, but didn't mention how directly related they were to the explosion. I know on Sunday they reported one injury that was a twisted ankle, when someone was evacuating thier home. I would suspect these other 59 injuries to be the same cause. There was a body found on the property of the propane facilities, which means it was either an employee, or an arsonist, that if that's the case, he deserved it.

I've done that on one of mine, I haven't been able to test it yet. I'm also toying with the idea of making mine adjustable kinda like the aftermarket BOVs.

Yeah like the residents that lived close by didn't notice a facility with a lot of tanks sitting on the property. Nobody ever questions why until after something happens. The outcome obviously wasn't that bad, no residents were injured, even with such a large explosion, no reports of damage to any adjacent properties. I'm not saying that there shouldn't be a 'buffer zone' surrounding such facilities, but oh the drama is surely being brought out on this one.

You're going to need to modify the cam cover as well. I looked at my L28 in my car in the driveway, and the oil cap pretty much lines up with the #1 port. Placing a "balance tube" near the head will destroy any resonance function that you are trying to get, essentially it becomes a plenum, a small one, but that's how you would need to think about it. I'm not sure what the purpose of that "balance tube" would be. I would change the location of your TB flange in the last renedering. You would lilkely end up with the TB being VERY close to the engine mount, inner wheel well, wiring, etc. Probably also need a very tight bend to get and intake tubing to mate up. I would place it on the "top", basically 90 degrees from where it is, this will make IC tubing a little easier to connect to, probably also make throttle linkage a little easier as well. I'm still thinking hood clearance is going to be an issue.

Come on man, I just explained it..... The MANIFOLD VACUUM pulls the diaphram up, lifting the plunger off the seat, or in the case of a crushed BOV, applies vacuum to the top of the diaphram, to allow the high pressure in the intake tract to push against the plunger to lift it off the seat to vent excess pressure. I assure you, that "small inlet" does indeed get attached to the intake manifold. Do some research on BOV function, it will help you understand it's purpose and functionality.

When the throttle is closed, the intake manifold creates vacuum. This is how your "vacuum asisted power brakes" get thier vaccum. There is a hose that attaches between the plenum (manifold) and the "upper" part of the BOV, that will apply vacuum to the diaphram and either lift the plunger or help lift the plunger.

You literally crush the BOV, most common way is to place in a vice and "crush" the top this way, to, as said, add more pre-load to the spring.

The regulator won't raise the pressure proprotinally to the boost pressure after 10 PSI manifold pressure. That is if the stock FRP indeed does have a 10 PSI limit, sounds plausible since other OEM FPRs I've seen seem to have about the same limit. The 1:1 rise in fuel presusre is really just keeping the differntial pressure the same. A little education: Fluid will flow from high pressure to low pressure. In this case the fuel rail has the high pressure and the intake manifold is low pressure, thus fuel flows from the rail through the injector and into the intake tract. Now fuel mapping is generally done with a a set pressure differential. From tony's post it sounds like this pressure differential is 37 PSIG. Now you will notice that when there is manifold vacuum, the fuel rail pressure will go down. This keeps that same or close pressure differential of 37 PSIG between the rail and the intake, even though the rail pressure is less than 37 PSIG. N Now once you go above 0PSI (~100KPA) intake manifold pressure, you now need to raise the fuel pressure in a 1:1 ratio to maintain that 37 PSIG differential, to keep mapping the same, or linear. you would need to increase the fuel rail pressure in a ratio greater than 1:1 to have "additional fuel", when in boost. You may find that you might run a bit rich in boost pressures below the factory 10 PSI, and then taper off a bit above that if you use an FMU, due to the ECM already being calibrated to deleiver adiquate fuel in that range. Using a Cartech FMU is supposed to reduce this, since it is supposed to be adjustable at the point in which fuel pressure starts to rise. I have a Cartech FMU that I will likely in my swap initially, to basically make the injectors seem larger than they are, to get enough fuel to the engine at higher boost pressures. I will be using a GM ECM that I will tune myself, but all injector calculations indicate that my injectors are about 10 lbs/hr too small for my end goal. I don't plan to run it this way long, but I may not find large enough injectors before I get to the point of running higher boost pressures, and I have this FMU kicking around from when I was going to put a turbo on my '98 Malibu, that never came to fruition, just didn't find the time to do it.

In reference to manifold vacuum.

Is this at idle? That's a good voltage to be at. Shouldn't go above 14.4V Normal. The engine doesn't need fuel on decel, so the fuel is cut down to a certain RPM (close to idle). That's real low if it is *F, don't you have a gauge that reads in Celsius? I thought I saw that last time I was out there. You say that like 6k is nothing. I these engines do rev, but man, if I ever tried that in some of my cars it just wouldn't pull that high. From what I remember of the AEM pricing that's not bad, but it has been a couple years since I was looking into the AEM stuff. This a PnP for the RB, or a universal? I'm going to have to get back out ther eand see it now that it sounds like you have fenders and a hood on it. I hope to have mine running again soon. then we'll have to go beat up on Matt in his Scooby.

LOL, I think they added too many zeros, or they're smoking from the good bong. Just from the pictures it's not worth half that. There are some very tricked out S30 going less than that, right here on HybridZ. Also there are a lot for sale in the classifieds on classiczcar.com, most for less than that.

Just wanted to give you a heads up on that, since I didn't want to see you get to add anymore aggrevation to the story that could be easily avoided. I can get you the name of the person at AA I dealt with if you like.