Six_Shooter

It's a sticky in the "Nissan L6 forum". http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129066

There was a car at Z-Fest today with the 6 slot wheels, I only really noticed because of this thread.

It was a good turn out. First time for me, certainly not the last. It was nice to see your car in person, one of only 2 that I saw V8 Zs. The guy that won the rotors and then the brake pads was Chris, AKA CanadianZ on here. His brother, Rob also posts under the same user name. I'm already looking forward to next year.

I used a universal pump and was able to mount it in the stock location, attached to the bottle. I did need to modify the "rubber" mount material though. Check with MSA, and Black Dragon, they might sell OEM replacements.

Yeah basically, that's how it is right now. I could call it "BOV piping" since my BOV/bypass is mounted in front of the rad. The only reason there's no IC yet, is because I haven't made it. I have the cores and the tank material, I just didn't have time fit it all and weld it before today. Z-Fest was today at Christie Lank consevation area, and there are a few things about the install that are "just for now" so that I could drive it to Z-Fest. I'll take some pictures of the under the engine IC (BOV ) piping, when I have it on jack stands again, which will likely be within the next few days, since there's a couple changes I need to make that I didn't account for befre driving it. I'm using the original fuel feed tube for the return, so it seemed to make the most sense to mount the regulator there. I didn't add any external coolant bypass, since I have read that there is a built in bypass in the block, so that should negate the need for any external passage. I've fianlly reduced the knock issues I was having to an acceptable level. and when I got back on the highway, after Zfest (I made some changes while the car was sitting), I was able to actually lay the power on, through 3 gears, and up to about 4 PSIG boost and man is this car going to fly when I get it tuned properly. It pulled HARD right to 6000 RPM, I only shifted because I don't have the tune as good as I would like it yet. I can tell this car is going to be so much more fun than my turbo 3.2L 1985 GMC Jimmy was. I'll be going out and tuning some more tonight, I need to review the logs from the trip to Z-fest and the trip home. Thanks for the compliments guys.

Thanks, it's brought a smile to my face tonight after lots of aggrivating days and nights working on it.

I can play now. I'll post a couple pictures of the exhaust as I was making it, I'll get installed pictures tomorrow in the day light. 3" all the way through, with a Moroso sprial flow. Apparently I didn't take any pictures with the muffler attached before I installed it.

Man, someday I might build a set of 180 degree headers, even if it's just for the look.

Ok, I have a couple pictures I took tonight, I'll get better pictures during the day tommorrow. From this: To this:

After too long (about 3 months) I finally have my 240Z running and driving again. I converted from Weber dual down drafts naturally aspirated, to EFI with a turbo. I'll have pictures tomorrow. Specs: 1973 240Z 1981 or '82 L28 (F54/P90) 5-speed tranny from a 1981 280ZX. 280Z intake manifold, converted to O-ring injectors by my grandfather. (N47) O-ring fuel rail, sourced from Accel, and machined by my grandfather. 30 lbs/hr injectors from a Ford Supercoupe (will likely change to larger injectors as funds allow) 280ZXT exhaust manifold, stock, with gasket matching to the turbine inlet. GM 6.5L diesel turbo (Borg Warner) 3" exhaust, Moroso Spiral flow muffler Walbro inline 255 L/hr fuel pump 280Z electronic dizzy, GM V6 ignition module (will convert to DIS later) Aeromotive AFPR Non-intercooled, but will be as soon as I weld the IC together. 1st gen DSM Bypass valve. GM 3400 (3.4L) 56mm TB. Adaptor plate machined by my grandfather. GM 1227749 ECM with code 59 (www.code59.org) running the whole deal. SO I can take the car to Zfest tomorrow and then take my time with getting everything cleaned up, tuned and improved.

What you propose will not pass NHRA tech, at least not a tracks that actually perform proper tech inspections. The power to the vehcile has to be killed, not just able to shut the engine, ALL positive power to the vehicle needs to die when the master cut off is switched off.

EFFFING SWEET!!!! I love it.

I don't know if you were asking about Rob and Chris or Chris and I as "both" but all three of us will be there, I'm trying to do it with my 240.

I'd say you have it mostly debugged. Thanks for the ride last night, car felt good and felt like it ran good. Now I just need to get mine running before Sunday.

LOL, the guy is driving a Focus with what seems to be an Europian driver door on the passenger side of the car. (two power window switches) Euro-spec, yo!

John, I have to ask, why would you charge an extra 1.5% for me to pay you for something in US funds via Paypal, just because I live across a border? US currency is US currency no matter where it's sent from. At this point it just sounds like a way to get more money from someone just due to the location they live in.

Then the seller should charge an extra 3% right off the hop. I too am seeing this trend, and also feel that the seller should eat that fee, I say this as a person who sells more than buys (usually) To complain as a seller about 3 measley percent seems to be so greedy, and even petty. I've only payed the Paypal fee a couple times, just because the items were things that I wanted, and I felt I was still getting a good deal. If the item was something that was just an ok deal or I didn't really need or want then I wouldn't buy that item.

My '73, had a current sensing tach just like above. There seems to be conflicting information on this, but it seems that most '73s had current sensing tachs.

Yeah WTH is up with that shifter? Retrofitted from a Peterbilt? Paint looks nice.

All information I have found says they are the same. The only differece in drivetrain between a coupe and 2+2 that I have found is the length of the driveshaft.

Listen I'm not going to argue with you about this, I have been building engines for many years, quench is a term that describes how close the piston comes to the head, being it 0.020" or 0.090" or any measurement of proximity of piston to head at TDC, in your case you have 0.049" quench, if indeed your gasket is 0.049" compressed thickness, and your piston come to zero deck and not proud.

Quench does have a lot to do with the raised area at the outside of the piston, that's why it's there. That's where you will measure that "0.040" quench" with a dished piston, heck even with a flat top, since the combustion chambers in the heads are almost always a dome shape or some variation of, like your two paint pictures there. Even dome pistons wouldn't come that close to the head nearer the center of the piston, or more specifically in the area of the valves, since most engine builders with cut the pistons to have at least 0.100" clearance between the valves and piston through it's cycle, both as the piston comes up to TDC and as it moves away from TDC.

I call that a "heartshaped" combustion chamber, it's the Chevy guy in me. That shape has been found to work well, for efficiancy, power and resisting detonation, more specifically pre-ignition.. With the swirl created by the shape it is found that the air/fuel mixture stays in suspension longer than a cylinder that has less swirl.

Yeah I'm debating on whether I should drill and tap my head or not, I basically have to decide tonight, as I hope to have the intake bolted on by tomorrow night at the lastest, if not later tonight. You still have quench with a dished piston, it happens with the edge of the piston (the raised area) against the face of the head, that is why the piston is dished and not just shorter or lower in the bore to retain good quench. I'll have to look for some pictures to see the differences, I'm not visualizing this lemon shapped combustion chamber.

You could always make your own. The Sunbird gauges I used to make the quad gauge in place of the tach has 4 individual gauges motors attached to the back of a translucent face. The face could be made however you want, and the gauges moved to what ever location you want. There is a small circuit board that goes along with the quad gauges but I'm not really sure if it's needed or not, I know it has a "check gauges" IC and driver circuit incorporated that if the oil pressure gauge is below a certain point or the temp gets to high it triggers a light to come on, I used a red LED in the upper left corner of the gauge face, I think you can see it in the video, that has a loink in the thread I made. If you want these parts to play with I could send them your way, like I said I'm switching back to a 260 Tach, and Auto Meter gauges.