Six_Shooter

Looks like a very good find. What did you pay for this little score?

This one? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100401

LOL..... I had this happened to me yesterday. I was sitting at a Tim Horton's (Coffee chain up here in Canada), doing some tuning on the laptop. A guy with his trailer trash looking family rolls in, and pretty quickly too, in the spot right next to me, and not straight into the spot, you know how it is, the car pulls into the spot on a turn, narrowly missing the side of your car. It seemed they were there to meet the people in the van in the next spot over. Then the guy as he's getting out of his car, looks at me and says: "Nice 280." I say, "Thanks, but it's a 240". His eyes open a little, and asks "What year?" At this point I think he might know a little about the lineage, realizing that the 240 was the earlier predecesor to the 260 and 280Z. "1973" I replied. He say's "Oh, an SX". At this point I chuckle a little and say: "No, the SX wasn't until the mid to late 80's, this is a Z". At that point he just got a confused look on his face, and walked away. Then one of the kids that was with them, not sure if he was in the van or the car, came over to my window and said: "Nice car, mister". I just said "thanks" as he ran towards the store. Still pretty cool overall, especially with the rust and mismatched colours of body parts on it now.

You might want to talk to this guy: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138054

My oil pressure barely showed on my gauge, when I was cranking it over. I had to fire it before I saw any real climb in pressure. congrats on getting it running.

There's supposed to be a cover over the flywheel, actually it's a flat plate that covers is between the engine and tranny. Looks like they forgot that when they swapped the engine.

Now THAT, I would like to see! HAHAHA.

I was thinking the same thing, It's hard to tell from videos but it didn't look like 199 MPH to me. Here's the video of Frank Pompilios Mustang I was talking about: This was at Toronto Motorsports Park, which is about 45 minutes from me and where the pic in my avatar was taken. There's also others on You tube from other races and tracks.

I agree. That's one reason why I still have my Auto Meter "AF" gauge. Currently it's running off my NBO2 sensor, but I will connect it to my LC-1 in the future. I just make sure it's in the green. If the tuning equipment/softeware/EMS has the ability to log the WBO2 input then I would say LC-1, and probably no gauge. If you really want a display in front of you, then a simple lean/stoich/rich indicator should be used. If the tuning equipment/software/EMS doesn't have provisions for logging the WBO2 input, then the LM-1 at least, along with an RPM input, better yet the LC-2 with it's other built capabilities would be the best. The more "channels" or inputs you have to compare the AFR to at that exact moment, the better.

I hope to get some video soon. I'm still tuning it, and had to start over yesterday, after discovering that my IAC hole in the TB was blocked by the gasket. That explained why my IAC counts were so high and there was no change with how the car ran, no matter what the IAC did, or what I did with it. I may take an idle vid later, like I did with the car just before I took it apart, literally I took a short video, then minutes after I shut it off, started taking the carbs off. I had the Moroso on it then too. Anyway, here are some turbo pictures: It's a pretty large turbo, physically, and seems to be flow wise. I knew that the turbine wheel was pretty large, but so far it seems that I really need to get the Rs up to get some positive intake pressure out of it. I am only running on the wastegate actuator at this point, since I want to get the base tune pretty dialed in before going any higher than I currently am. The spring seems to be limited to about 3.5 PSIG, I know the spring itself is a 2 PSIG spring, but I think I might have tightened up the actuator a bit more than I intended. *whistles* The actuator was pirated from a Garret turbo originally used on a Pontiac Sunbird. I then made the extension that threaded onto the actuator to the wastegate flapper, from some brake line tubing, a flat piece of 1/8" mild steel and the threaded section also from the Garrett actuator. *EDIT* I was just looking through a log from last night, and I seem to be a bit higher than I previously noticed with boost PSIG, at 4675 RPM, my log shows 4.48 PSIG. So I'm not sure if that's boost creep at this point, or if it's it's just taking a while to spool up, in a way I'm hping that's boost creep, or possibly the wastegate just not being able to fluctuate enough at low boost pressures to control shaft RPM, I'm really hoping that boost threshold will be lower once, I start controlling boost via the ECM. I guess it's time to get a low pressure regulator out and test the actuator opening pressure.

I think your estimation of 10,000 HP is a tad high, I realize yu were probably purposefully exagerating, to make a point. I pay attention to a racing organization called the OSCA (Ontario Street Car Association www.raceosca.com), where there are a couple classes that run in excess of 180 MPH, EZ Street and Super Street. EZ street is uaully around the 180 MPH mark, most of these cars are making around 1800 to 2000 HP. Some are more aredynamic than others, compare the car that I have been helping out with a 2004 Mustang true 10.5 car to a late '60s Camaro, and everything in between, all run in about the high 7s, class bump is usually around 8.0 to 8.10. These cars need to weigh a minimum of 3100 lbs, and go up from there, depending on type of power adder, type of transmission, etc. Next look at Super Street, these cars are in the 6s, one in particular, Frank Pompilios' '67 Mustang, runs 6.70s in excess of 200 MPH on a regular basis, it has even ran a 230 MPH pass that pulled the front wheels at the finish line, though there has been some skeptisim about that, even though the video (on youtube) clearly shows the car tricycling all the way the down the track, and the car changes pitch just as it passes the camera, showing the front wheels coming off the ground. The car makes about 2500 HP. The car is stock bodied, except for the hood, and the wing. The stance has been changed, and would bet that the aerodynamics of that car are not much better than an S30, I do realize that the stance and hight change will help, and anyone wanting to go that fast in an S30 would be stupid to attempt it without making sme changes to the car itself to help get the car there. I'm only posting this to show that it does take a lot of power, but maybe not quite as much as some people might believe. I understand the poetic part to saying it takes a billion HP to do something and then someone does it, with less than that gizzilion HP, but lets be real here. BTW: Fastest in my Z I think has been about 90 MPH, maybe 95, I think that would have been when I was following JerryB back from Milton and the OZC joint meeting.

Could also use two 2 BAR MAP sensors, tieing them into voltage reference, ground and then using a pair of DMMs, you can see how much difference there. record the max differences and then through calculations, come up with an actual pressure difference. Might even be able to set up gauge to show the difference.

I re-tapped the block to 1/8" NPT. I just loaded up the flutes of the tap with grease to hold the shavings. I could have gone just to a 1/8 to -4 T, but decided that I wanted an oil pressure switch in there for my fuel injection, so I have a couple bushings and a T fitting between.

Well, the signals that you are asking about, actually come from the ignition module. The ignition module sees the hall effect signal from the dizzy, then the signals are changed within the ICM to send back and forth to the ECM, there are 4 connections between the ECM and the ICM. One is a ground, two are "reference", one is labled "high", the other "low", these appear to be similar pulses or closer to square wave, it's been a while since I read what exactly these signals were, It's easier to just use the GM ignition module with the ECM. The fourth signal is what is called an "EST bypass", that enables or disables ECM controlled timing. This is also the wire that gets disconnected to set base timing with a dizzy. The VSS can be either sine wave or hall effect, and the code I'm running has a selectable flag for changing this. Yes, the wasted spark DIS can be used with this code, there are just a few constants that need to be changed to match, not sure that anyone has done it yet with $59, but it has been done with other code and worked fine, once ironed out. The signals between the ICM and the ECM are virtually identical between a dizzy and DIS, using the GM components. I'm sure patches could be made to use other systems with the GM ECM, but I haven't researched that myself. I have considered looking at using EDIS with it, but I have all or most of the GM components anyway and electrnically speaking would be easier to use that.

I have not used MS, only researched it, so I can't really give a direct comparison. The GM ECM for me was cheaper, since I have a few kicking around along with some harnesses to use for ECM connections, and connectors to the sensors/actuators. I also already had the tuning equipment needed, since I also tune a few friends vehicles, that use GM ECMs. If real time tuning wasn't a necessity, then the GM EMS could be swapped in rather inexpensivly. The most expensive part to this seems to be the EEPROM emulator, that allows real time tuning ($180 from moates.net), the price seems to be very similar no matter what company you buy the emulator from, most seem to be serial based though, the one I have is USB based, which can also be upgraded to Bluetooth. I like the GM ECM, because the ECM itself is easy to get, and most often quite inexpensive, since there are literally millions of them out there, some sitting in cars at the wreckers or on the shelves of parts houses. This is something to keep in mind if you ever have an ECM fail, feild replacment becomes easy, and cheap. With just about any aftermarket EMS it either has to be sent back, or taken home and serviced, usually disabling the vehicle for a few days to weeks. I can just pullout the MEMCAL and adaptor, install into another ECM and plug it in, I can even get that ECM any where in North America on any day of the week. FWIW, I've never had a GM ECM fail personally, thought I had, but always turned out to be something else. The GM ECM has, IAC (stepper motor) control, ignition timing control, electric fan control, boost control output (when using the right code), EGR control, canister purge control (emmisions), knock sensor input, up to 3 BAR MAP input (with proper code), A/C compensation, E-fan control on with A/C request, Power steering anti-stall control, WBO2 fueling control (again, proper code), or can just input the WBO2 to the ECM to show up in the ALDL datastream for datalogging purposes, with a patch to the bin file and the datastream diagnostic definition file. Some codes will have alky/nitrous control, with other enabled inputs and outputs in the future as people work on them. Tuning looks to be a bit easier with the aftermarket EMS, the GM tuning seems to be a bit cryptic, but once you get past that, and realize that there's a lot of tunable options that you really will never need to touch, then it becomes fairly easy. Most of the time it's just the VE and main spark tables that get the most changes, and any constants that need to be changed are usually only changed at first start up, or when any major changes have been made to the combo, such as BPC/BPW constants when injectors are changed, again, not too many seem to be used too often. Some GM tuners will use these little used tables and constants to help dial in lean cruise mode for better milage, or DFCO to get better idle return control (I need to work on this one a bit myself). There is a lot of support out there for the GM EMS, both in hardware and information. The best source of information is on www.thirdgen.org in the DIY PROM forum, but be forewarned, you will need to dedicate a LOT of time to reading, because it doesn't seem to make sense until you start with the hands on tuning. Most things seem to be like this though. Some hardware can actually be home made, like the ALDL cable, this is the cable that allows a laptop to read what is being sent down the diagnostic link and displayed on your screen. There are simple versions called "The two transistor cable" to more involved cables that use a "MAX232" chip for the interface. I built a MAX232 based cable, and thought I burnt it out, turned out the ECM had an issue with connecting to the ALDL stream, I bought a moates.net ALDL Extreme cable anyway. Both cables seemed to work just as well. The home made cables are serial cables so you would need to have a laptop with an open serial port or a serial to USB adaptor. The moates cable is USB based. If you don't care about real time tuning, you can literally be tuning a GM ECM for less than $100, by buying an EPROM programmer for about $35, sometimes cheaper (I bought a USB programmer from mcumall.com), about $20 for the parts to assemble the Two transistor ALDL cable, and a MEMCAL adaptor for between $20 and $35 depending on where you get it from and if it's new or used. The software can be downloaded for free to several hundred dollars, depending on the level you will be tuning at and what "broadcast code or mask" you are using. At this point most of the desirable codes and definitions are available for free through the DIY communuity, some like code 59 have taken an original code and modified it and extended tables to work better, or give more options. There is also S_AUJP (more info on thirdgen.org), that has taken a stock code (AUJP in this case) and modified it to have some extra options and better tables, now called "Super AUJP". S_AUJP is used more in the V8 N/A crowd, code 59 is cattering more towards the forced induction crowd, but of just about any displacement now. I'm very happy with how my GM ECM is running my car now, with really on a few hours to tune what I have, and need to look at the mechanical side of things right now to make sure everything actually matches up.

I'd like to believe I do. I still learn something about this stuff everytime I work with it, it's also fun.

For ignition signals, I use an L28 (non-turbo) dizzy, and use an ECM controlled GM ignition module from a 6 cylinder. Mine was pirated from a used 2.8L dizzy that was pulled from an S-10. The ECM I am using is a batch fire ECM, when using 6 or 8 cylinders uses saturated outputs for the injectors, though there are more than a few people that have swapped out the sense resistors and have been able to run Peak and Hold with 6 r 8 injectors connected.. In the 4 cyl OEM application the injectors were low impedance and set as peak and hold. To keep things easy, I used the GM 3400 TB, because it has the TPS and IAC built in, plus I also have a few kicking around, so it seemed like a logical choice. I am using a GM knock sensor that was pulled from a 2.8 or 3.2 genII (FWD), threaded into the block on the passenger side, where it looks like a stock knock sensor might have been installed. I had to tap it for 1/4" NPT. The CTS and MAT sensors are both GM parts, the CTS is what is known as a "3 wire", since it has connections for gound, a signal to the ECM and a dedicated gauge output, I'm not using the gauge output, but had the sensor from when I did have a GM temp gauge installed in the car. The MAT sensor is installed where the original cold start injector was I have a GM boost control solenoid installed and attached to the engine, but I am not using it just yet, I want to make sure that I have the absolute minimum boost I can to do the initial tune, and will then move over to using the boost control solenoid, so I can have selectable boost levels at the flip of a switch, and have a tuned bin file to match. For tuning, I'm using a program called Tuner Pro RT (www.tunerpro.net), which also has datalogging capabilities, I will be using it from now on I think, since I can easily convert those files to CSV and read through them easily. I have been using a program called Scanner Pro, which is written by the same guy that wrote Tuner Pro RT (www.scannerpro.net). This is a beta release, that will in the future be integrated into Tuner Pro RT to give more GUI customizable options. I'm trying to find a way to datalog to a standalone device, that might hold something like an SD card or something along those lines, so that I won't need a laptop in the passenger seat, but so far not much luck. The hardware I'm using has come from Moates.net (www.moates.net). I am using a chip emulator called the Ostrich 2.0, along with the "Extreme ALDL" diagnostic connector interface, along with a MEMCAL adaptor (refered to as "G1"). Yes, there are some unused inputs and outputs. So far one of these has been used for WBO2 input, with the code that I am running (www.code59.org), that will also allow WBO2 fueling control, and can be used with auto tune. Code59 is a code that started life as the GM code $58, which was used in the Turbo Sunbirds and the Syclone/Typhoon. Code $59 has fixed some bugs in the original code, along with adding that WBO2 support and an extended and much higher resolution VE table, and actually requires a 3 BAR MAP sensor to work, even when running N/A, if you choose to do so. But for N/A I would use a different code. The authors of $59 plan to add alky/nitrous control, along with making some other inputs and outputs available for easy integration into custom applications. So far it's running well, I just need to work on it some more, and get it dialed in. I will be installing an EGR on this engine eventually, and will likely use the Nissan EGR with the GM vacuum solenoid.

The first picture is really cool with that rainbow partially formed in the background sky.

Here's a couple pictures from today.

More pictures as promised:

I've been looking into this too, a search didn't reveal much. I've seen what looks to be simple block off plates that replace the dizzy mount to one that I saw yesterday on a Supercharged L28 that had a nice block off plate just where the dizzy gets mounted for adjustment, on top of that little stand off. My concern is the shaft being able to move in a linear motion inline with the shaft, towards the dizzy. I haven't seen any pictures of how the dizzy/oil pump drive is installed and if it gets retained in a way to keep the shaft down, towards the oil pump.

That is definatly an aftermarket sunroof. ALL reading I've done on the subject indicates that these were dealer installed options, just like the vinyl roofs.

Yeah TIG welders are nice to have. I'll admit I was a bit worried about welding to it, and did a test weld on it before I cut it to use as the flange for the exhaust system. It wouldn't have been hard to make a new flange, but I didn't really have the time to make, so I went with this plan, so far so good. I'll get installed pictures up tonight, I need to transfer them from the camera to the 'puter.

I'm not running a Mega Squirt, I'm using a GM ECM to run mine, but I have the MAT (AKA "IAT", "MAT" is Mnifold Air Temp, "IAT" is Intake Manifold Temp), in the cold injector location, so far it seems to be working well. I have just been able to get the car running on Saturday. The CTS I have installed in the Thermostat housing, in th elower left location in the pic you provided, drilled a 9/16" hole (specs call 17/32" hole, but couldn't find that drill bit), and then tapped for the 3/8" NPT, infact both the MAT and CTS sensors use the same thread. I went with that location for the CTS, since the probe would be more exposed to the collant than using the lower right port, where I had orginally installed it.

Hmmm, maybe I will need to pull that N42 head off the block and see just what I can fit together.