Six_Shooter

Much better, now your photography skills, that's another story....

Yep, it sounds like a shift light would be a good investment. I know for myself, it not only helped me shift at the right time, to help lower my ETs (with a little adjusting of the shift point), but also much more consistant. This was with my high 15 second Skyhawk, not blisteringly, hell not even singingly fast, but the consistancy was there. I then had my 13 second turbo V6 truck, that I didn't have a shift light in (had planned on it), and was even close to consistant. Earlier this year I had a shift light in the Datsun, but wasn't installed in a way that was easy to see (placement was poor), and wasn't very consistant there, now I have a large Auto Meter shift light mounted on top of the dash, right in my face, so I won't even need to glance down to see the shift light.

I didn't think the ET dizzy used vacuum advance.

Sounds like racing to me. Same things happen in the OSCA (Drag Racing).

Try Home Depot or Lowes. I know the Lowes that is local to me has castle nuts. If that doesn't work, look up Brafasco (might be Canadian only), Nut and Bolt Supply, or industrial supply houses that will likely be found in an industrial area. BTW, those are both "castle nuts", just different designs. Like a 240Z and 300Z are both Z cars, just different designs.

I've been thinking the same thing, they will have no use under driving conditions, except maybe extremely hard braking, would have to be from an extremely high speed and VERY hard braking. MAYBE extremly hard cornering might pick up the inside rear wheel, but then I would want it to droop, and stay in contact with the road. The only other use I can see is like you said to keep from over extending the half shafts, when the car is being raised by a jack or lift.

Leave them alone. I used a newer 12SI (IIRC) alternator on my '73. I used the ignition circuit that went to the regulator to energize the GM alternator. I actually used the original harness from the regulator, cut it off and made an "adaptor harness" to attach to the GM alternator. Here are a couple pictures of my adaptor harness:

I don't think I spent that much on the EFI swap, at least I hope not. I didn't use MS, but that seems like a bit much, unless you are going absolutly new on everything. I'm sure that price could be cut down, even if you were to use some some stock/used parts for now.

I think the BOV through the hood is terrible, sticks out like a sore thumb against the black finish of the car. Looks like a pimple on the hood in many shots. Would likely look a LOT better if it was anodized or even just painted black, so that it blends more with the rest of the car. The rest of the car looks very good. I'm torn on the headlights, it looks very menacing, which I like, I'm just not sure about it overall though, so far I'm leaning towards liking it. I doubt it would be very legal around where I live to do that though. Cops get sticky about lights around here. The body work looks amazing and the wheel fitment couldn't be better, as in the way they sit in the arches.

There are only a few parts that look to be L-series specific, like the intake, TB adaptor, fuel rail and oil pan, everything else could be used by an RB, SBC, SR, Yugo engine, etc. So I wouldn't look at it as wasted on this engine, just tested for the next.

After reading this thread, it occured to me that this possible phenominon of heated fuel, might be just what happened the other night in my car. I was doing some tuning of the GM EMS, logging, etc, etc. I was out for about an hour, made a few highway passes, and at the beginning, the AFRs were rich, but consistant (my EMS has a WBO2 input). Nearer the end of my session, my fuel was getting low, and the AFRs were going way leaner than I would accept as ok to continue the power tuning I was doing. The car never hicupped, or showed signs of lack of fuel. I later checked the log, between the beginning and end of the session, and compared any concievable parameter in the log that could effect this. everything remained consistant, including injector pulse width, spark was also the same. I had been thinking that maybe my fuel pick-up was being uncovered and not pumping fuel up to the engine, as this only happened when in PE, where the fuel could slosh to the rear of the tank, but again, no hiccup or bucking like I would expect from such a condition. The symptom when away after filling up.

Finally was able to get Big Ball to work: http://FantasticContraption.com/?designId=1308044

Here's one I just finished for 4 balls: http://FantasticContraption.com/?designId=1307223

Oh man, that's great!!!!

I agree 100% I looked at that side shot and said "HOLY SH&T THAT'S HOT!" The colour is an excellant choice. Very well done.

Mine is made from mandrel bends, cut to the right length and welded together. You're probably asking about a single piece that uses mandrel bends, which I just don't see happened for a decent price, simply because of the costs involved.

You might want to check the rules, but I believe NHRA and IHRA require the main hoop to be vertical.

Cool, that's not too bad. I have what I believe to be the same wheel on it's way to me.

But he's only selling 5 of them.

And I thought I got a good deal paying a little more than you. The only advantage mine had was that it ran, not well, but it ran. You're has matching paint on all body panels. You got a great deal.

I think this might have been the wrong forum to post this thread in. I had looked at Haltech a few years ago, almost bought a couple times, either new, because I could get a good deal, or used, because it was an even better deal, but decided against it. It was just too much money for what I needed it for at the time. Now, it might be worth it, but I have since learned to use and adapt an OEM EMS that I quite like. I have also looked at MS, and while the features it has for the price is good, again, I use an OEM EMS for my retrofits to EFI. For someone just starting into the EFI scene and just want something to run, the MS would likely be my recomendation. If you want something a little different, with more emmisions controls built in, then you might want to look at another EMS.

Sweet!

Why don't you want the ECU to control spark?

It's definatly an interesting looking piece.