Six_Shooter

Here's all the info I have on the filter. The picture that was with the thread is now gone, otherwise I'd show that too. GM part numbers BTW, from a GM tech.

Yeah that's why there's usually a charcoal canister or other flame arresting device inline. The vent without a loop is just that a vent. It's the loop, that turns at least 360 degrees (some people like 720), and then the line running out the bottom of the floor, with the end of that vent tube being below the bottom of the fuel cell that makes it a roll over anti-spill tube. I'll try and find that third gen f-body filter information.

No, there is no build up of pressure to neccessitate a BOV. Like I said in my previous post the only reason for a BOV is to relieve the build up of pressure between the turbo and thottle plate(s). With the turbo after the throttle plates there is no way to stall the turbo by closing the throttle in a draw through set-up. In a draw through set-up, anything after the throttle plate(s) once closed is in vacuum. Once there is a lack of supply of air (closing the throttle), there is no way for the turbo to create positive pressure.

Is there a loop in the line? I mean a complete 360 turn of the vent line and then run out to the outside? It really needs to have this loop for rollover safety, and it does help cut down on the fuel smell a bit as well. Third gen F-body in certain years use a filter for this. I don't recall the exact details, but I can get specifics.

The speedo doesn't need power to work. It's mechanical. I had one of my spare Speedos apart about a week ago and if memory serves it is attached directly to the speedo gauge face, possibly a ground, but for what purpose I don't know. I also don't know what that little box is, I haven't looked into it just yet, as my 240 is still not here yet (should be on Tuesday or Wednesday. ). I'll look at the diragrams that I have and see if I can figure it out.

A "stock T3" What size compressor wheel and A/R? That statement is much too blanket because T3s come in many different sizes that effect thier flow ratings. A BOV is not used nor needed on a draw-through set-up. The only reason for a BOV is to make that the turbo shaft (Compressor wheel,m turbine wheel and shaft) don't stall from a closing of the throttle where an excessive amount of pressure is built up along with a back wave that can not only stall the turbo shaft, but bend it, causing more catastrophic problems. On a draw-through set-up there is no differential of pressure between the compressor and intake ports, meaning there is no variable obstruction between (throttle plate), so no way for the turbo shaft to be stalled. A draw through turbo also requires a certain compressor seal to control oil in teh high vacuum situation that a draw-through compressor will experiance. The turbo itself will be essentially free-wheeling, and the speed is directly controlled by the amount of exhaust gasses passing the turbine, more so than the way a blow through is. The vacuum created with the closed throttle also has an effect on the turbo shaft speed, but lessser than the turbine has. One rather large problem with a draw-through set-up has been touched on and that is compressor wheel erosion, from the fuel hitting the compressor wheel. This can eventually cause more problems than just an eroded wheel, and that could come in the form of catastrophic failure due to the turbo shaft now being out of balance. It is because of this and another point I will get to, that draw-through set-ups are not very popular for daily drivers. The other issue is intercooling. A draw through set-up can not use an intercooler, front mount or otherwise. The fuel would end up coming out of suspension and pool at the lowest points. Throttle responce also suffers, due to the length of path from the carb to the valves. This long path can also cause poor fuel distribution issues that at times can be difficult to overcome. The only way to cool the compressed charge in a draw through set-up is through the use of "liquid intercooling", such as alcohol or water injection.

There's more than a few ways to find that information on there too. There is the registry and another list with approximate dates. IIRC. Also check out www.classiczcars.com there's quite a bit of info there on stuff like this too.

Needs more cowbell.

In the 302/351 applications I cited earlier, the main caps were also machined, but not attached to the block. They were just cleranced, so that the girdle did NOT touch the main cap. The girdle applying pressure to the main cap would or could cause deformation of the main cap and cause the bearing surface to become oval as opposed to round (this could be a benefit, but that's a whole 'nother discussion). The other problem is it became real difficult to ensure that when the girdle was torqued down, the torque reading was coming from the nut tightening, instead of the girdle being pressed against the bottom of the main cap, causing inaccurate torque readings (loose) and after a few heat cycles, the nut could loosen off and allow the main to walk, negating any benefit of the girdle. I'm also not sure I would want to place any pressure on the main cap, by way of clamp from the oil pan rail, for a couple reasons, the gasket will effect the clamping force, at time of assembly and also through heat cycles. The expansion and contraction of the girdle/brace over the linear path of the part (side to side accross the pan rails, that included for and aft), and will change the clamping force due to this. The change is probably minimal, but the effect is there, think leverage. The open spaces, that are machined, help control the expansion and contraction, but it still exists. I haven't seen too many girdles that tie into the pan rails, most just support the mains and help control them "walking" under high stress. The girdles I do see tied into the block have usually been crossbolted, and are usually part of the main cap. I don't recall the engine off hand, but it is a straight 6 that I have seen this way, actually a few of them, also a few 4 cylinders. I thought it was a rather interesting design, all main caps tied together, and then crossbolted on the side of the main itself. The real need for a girdle is to keep the mains from walking for and aft, all other ways are usually taken care of, or at least have minimal movement side to side or vertically. The domestic engines I usually work on, have small recess on either side that are an interferance fit, to help hold the main side to side. There's nothing really holding them for and aft though, which seems to cause the most problems where main caps are concerned. I have thought about making a different girdle that didn't tie into the main studs/bolts, but attached to the main caps themselves via new drilled and tapped holes. The only problem I see with this is a new failure (weak) point.

Other than new cars (less than 10 years old) I haven't see an actual fuse on the ignition signal. Before that there were fusable links most commonly, and these were always pre-ignition switch. Newer cars yet are even worse with relay or solid state driven coil positive circuits. Take a look at some ignition schematics for newer GMs (2006ish+) there's no start wire. Chrysler has tried something similar, but has a "second starter wire", that is resistance based to ground, whihc also carries other switch information also based on resistance information to ground. The "backfeeding" that you see, may not be "backfeeding", or at least not un-intentional. I have seen on some older vehicles that use balast, and some that don't have balast resistors, and use a start bypass circuit will actually power other devices, like guages, and such while cranking. This has been completly intentional in these cars.

While it may be more than I would pay, simply because I would piece my own version together, it really not that badly priced. Looking at the parts that are there, both off the shelf and custom and the instruction booklet that comes with it, it seems to be quite fair priced.

LOL, bored?

The plate welded to the bottom (top?) of the brace is not necessary, but the studs are. If you look at "stud girdles" for 302/351W (Ford engines), you will see that studs are used, and the girdle is placed in such a way that there is a seperate nut that holds the girdle to the studs. I haven't seen a 302/351 girdle that attaches to the pan rail however. The attachmnet to the pan rail, just makes the need spacer or stud nut thickness to be more accurate. Also the oilpump pick up should be lowered by the same amount as the thickness of the girdle, so that it is the same distance from the bottom of the pan, to keep from being uncovered. Probably not a big problem, but something that should be considered.

A good vehicle wiring job from headlight to tail light seems to average around $3000 USD. This is "Street race car wiring", where there are usually as many systems as there are for a daily driver street car. That being said, Jerry is probably correct in that the car doesn't need to be completly re-wired, but only portions of it. This can still be a costly endevour, depending on whether the harness that is needed is available or if it will ne to be built from scratch or repaired. There can also be some diagnostic time in there, if you are looking to re-pair what's already existing. If you do it yourself, you could most likely get away with making the necissary repairs for less than $1000 USD, depending on how far you go. A basic harness, such as what is offered by Painless, EZ, and a few other vendors average around $400, depending on how many circuits you need/want, etc. This latter part is for a complete re-wire, repairing what is there, can vary quite a bit. If it were me, I would re-pair what is known to be bad and go from there, you may find that the rest of the harness is just fine.

If those flares weren't fibreglass, I'd be all over getting a pair for myself. Looks good.

Sweet. I'm impressed by the numbers. Why do you have post stuff like this and make the engine choice that much harder? Damn you!! *shakes fist*

Man I wish I could find deals like that. 'grats.

I agree, and I have a truck with a rattle canned engine bay, it's a DD (mostly), so the black was easier at the time than to paint it a matching green to the colour change on the exterior. The Blue looked great, bedliner covered engine bay FTL! Looks like you're trying to hide something, kinda like rocker guard 6" up the side of a car.

That's my thinking. Yeah I could see that as being the only reason, but then again, I'd still want it upfront, maybe on a hinged mount that swings down under the dash while on the track, but up out of the way when it's parked for that orginal look.

That second link has a full cover that I would think would look better than the top only. I've seen pictures of the dash caps and never cared for that line that you see all the way across the dash, with the cap only, I can only imagine how bad it must look in person. My dash is cracked too, but I think I'll be building a custom dash anyway.

I have to agree with Jerry on this one. A guage placed out of site, especially where you can't look at it from the driver seat is a waste of money and time to install. To monitor the diff temp only when pulled over just doesn't make sense. It would be better to know the diff temp while moving along to see if there are any problems before they get bad, instead of breaking, getting out opening up the cover for the guage and say "Yep, that thar diff, she's a hot one". If the ordered gauge had a capillary tube that was too short to plce it up front, placing it in a location that can be seen in the rear view mirrow would be a better location than than under that cover. I actually know a guy that had his gauges set up that way in a Fiero.

Rad hose could work, but is usually found to expand under pressure and is why most people prefer metal, or even composites. I've seen people use PVC, but would still recommend mandrel bend steel or aluminium tube for IC piping.

I'm not sure that I could cut up such a low vin S30...... Yeah I could. It would be harder if the rockers and floor weren't gone like yours. Hell you could probably flip it pretty much the way it is and make decent money being such a low build number car.

Well, I'm going to show a small update here. I had pulled the engine out previous to this work, and then proceded to remove the front sheet metal, in preperation for the next bit of work. I had planned on upgrading to rack and pinion steering, but since I purchased my '73 240Z, I scaled this project back a bit, to save some time, though I don't think much money has been saved. On this tire of the first picture you can see one of the spindles I will be using, from a 2nd gen F-body. This will give me a larger brake (11"). The spindle is also taller that gives much better camber gain as compared to the original S-series set-up, where the top of the tire actually points out under compression (positive camber). The only problem with the use of this spindle is that bump steer is effected, but I have a plan to get around that. Here is a partial disassembly picture: Frame cleaned up with a wire wheel: And here is the front frame painted, I haven't painted the crossmember, because it still needs to be modified to clear the oil pan of the engine I will be using: I have since the last picture cleaned, painted, and re-installed the steering box, cleaned up, painted and re-installed the idler arm, loosly installed the center link for measurements, and have installed an early '90s Cherokee steering shaft between the steering column and the steering box. This removes the rag coupler joint and replaces both joints with universal joints, helping to tighten the steering responce and gain a little more space for headers and down pipe. I have also cleaned up and painted most of the remaining front suspension components, such as the steering knuckles, sway bar, etc. I also have one piece cutout for boxing the lower control arms, the band saw blade broke while cutting the second piece, and I'm still waiting for the blades I had to be re-welded. I should have the parts needed to build my upper control arms in the next week or two. I need to get this truck rolling again, I have another short term project coming by in a month or so.

All the good S30s seem to be either West or South. Mine is coming from Washington (the state), finaly on it's way. Any of the S30s that I had seen listed on the east coast or close to seem to be rot boxes, and are good for nothing more than parts or donor cars. The S30s that seem to be in good shape in the east are either already restored or rare finds, both of which seem to pull a premium. I'm not saying that you won't be able to find something east, but you may have to turn some rocks and wait a while.