Six_Shooter

From what I have seen, or read there were years where more than one model was made, such as '74 there was the 240 and 260. I also see a difference between "early 260" made up to 74.5 as I see people post, and then the "late '74 260". The early 260 has the front lights more like the 240, the late '74 260 has the front lights like the 280.

What program did you use to do that? Looks good. *right click, save as...*

Well tonight I finally had the "1 sec" search page pop up SEVERAL times.

I know I've seen a thread where there was a series of posts that showed a modifictaion where the wipers were below the cowl, and then when the wipers were turned on, the hood would raise to a point that would allow the wipers to sweep. I can NOT find this thread, does anyone have a link to this information? Thanks

I agree that there are some societal aspects to this, but I also dislike the 15 second wait deal, and even more annoying when the page loads saying that you need to wait 3 seconds, or 2, I haven't personally seen a 1 second before searching page yet, but I'm sure it will happen, and will be even more annoying. At least it's not 20 seconds like another forum I'm on. Microwaves are just not quick enough.

Out of those three, I would use the first one posted. The tubes are shorter, which helps reduce restriction and is said to be most effciant design. The second one is the worst design, because the tubes are long times 2. The flow goes through the core length twice, for an effective core size of 42" x 5.5" x 3", with the 42" being in the worst possible way for good flow. I would not be surprised that an IC that was 21" x 5.5" x 3" would cool the charge just as effective with less pressure loss. The 3rd one is not bad, and other than the inlet/outlet being on the side, would probably fit best. Just a thought, using the 3rd one with the inlet/oute being placed low on the chassis, so at the bottom, make that easier to mount? The IC piping could then be run under the headlight buckets. *edit* Looking at THIS picture looks like you may not need to place the in/outlet at the bottom, since there would be around 9" of space on either side of the IC. I'm not sure how much space is taken up by the hood hinges though.

GOLD!!!!

ROFL

There are LSx mount kits available, I'm not sure where to get them from, but a search for "LS1 mount" or "LSx mounts" or variations of that should get you the info, also check through the stickies.

Then it's a volt guage, not an amp meter. From what I've read this is normal, for the volt guage to show voltage even with the ignition turned off.

I think this is too blanket, as I know of a NUMBER of street cars with one-wire alternators and they charge just fine at idle. I would assume here that maybe the pulley ratios were not correct, as in too large of an alternator pulley or too small of a crank pulley., or maybe a little of both. I see far too many people blame "bad alternators" or low idle charge current on the alternator when it turns out that the alternator is just not spinning high enough to excite the regulator and actually charge the battery. On an L series, as far as I know there isn't many options for crank pulley size, not something I've looked into, but also something I haven't seen mentioned, so if there are more choices than one or maybe two diameters, let me know. But this is lead up to where I know there are a lot of choices and that is the alternator pulley. Using a smaller alternator pulley will spin the armature at a higher RPM for the same crank RPM. The only draw back to this is at high crank RPM, might over spin the alternator, and put it out of a safe RPM range, this would have to be determined by the actual pulley ratio. That being said, I do agree that it's not difficult to connect a conventional internally regulated alternator in place of the existing OEM externally regulated alternator, provided the correct tools and that includes wire diagrams.

700 streetable HP is becoming more and more common. Usually through the using of a power adder. Take a look at the cars that run in Hot Rod's Drag Week, many of those cars are in the high 3 digit and into the 4 digit HP, and they HAVE to complete the 1000 mile (or so) trip between 4 tracks over 5 days, and RACE each day (The first rack is also the last track), no support vehicles, no trailers, must be driven between the tracks, and if a car does break down, must be repaired using road side enginuity, to continue. It may not be cheap to do, but it is possible, that's actually one of my plans for my Z is to build it for Drag Week and/or the Pump Gas drags, I'm leaning towards Drag Week though, closer and shows that it is a true street car. If you really wanted 700 HP (I'm assuming crank here), you can easily build a 450 to 550 HP LSx (Carb intake manifolds are available), and then spray it (nitrous) the remaining 150 to 250 HP. I wouldn't be so quick to throw out the idea of EFI though, there are many available aftermarket systems that are easily tuned, much easier than the Honda ECUs, and make for much better street manners with the use of EFI. A turbo or super is also easier with EFI than with a carb, although there have been some impressive blow through carb systems show up recently in some racing circles, most notable a twin turbo 512 ci (IIRC) blow through using an 850 CFM carb (IIRC) that put out over 2000 HP on an engine dyno. The build took more than your entire budget for your car in just the engine alone. For the budget you have, a stout LSx with spray would probably be more than enough fun for you, heck even without the spray it would be lots of fun just trying to keep it straight, and plant the power.

You should be able to find the dimentions of each guage on the Auto Meter site. The instruction sheet for the actual guages you are looking at should be on there, they used to be anyway. IIRC the acutal size is smaller for the cut out and it also depends on whether you are using actual panel mount ("dash mount") or using a pedistal mount guage being placed in the dash. The only reason I mention the last part is that I know a few people who have used pedistal mounted guages as a panel mount, myself included. *edit* Just checked and the installation/instruction sheets are still on the site under "Tech info" and then "Instructional downloads".

ROFL

The Skyline on the hoist in the background of the middle picture would also make it a stronger indication that it's in Japan, or maybe Austrailia because I think Skylines were sold in Austrailia too.

Mounting that one looks fairly straight forward. Mounting tabs at 6 and 12 o'clock. I usually use GM alternators for upgrades, as I know that they have internal regulators, and are easy to wire up. You can also find them in quite a few different mounting configurations, one of which is the 6 and 12 o'clock mounting tabs. I get mine from a local builder here, SVA Power products. The guys that builds them is realistic about the overall output. He can get max amperage, and will do so, if you have another smaller alternator to keep up with idle speed charge. I believe the newer Chryco alternators are also internally regulated, but I haven't had much experiance with them. I would do some checking around, just to make sure that alternator is what the seller says it is.

LOL, If I lived closer.

Hard to say without pictures. But for $500, it sounds like you could at least get your money back through parting the cars out if you found that the shells were just too far gone.

Some people, who are wrong () spell words without "u"s added, like color, instead of the proper spelling of colour.

There are marine 305s that were equipped with a 4 bolt main. Also you can add 4 bolt mains, using aftermarket splayed caps, which some people will say is stronger than the stock straight 4 bolt mains, some say they aren't, either way they can be added. There have also been some pretty stout builds using 2 bolt mains. Even just adding a girdle to the 2 bolt main block will help strengthen it. Check out www.thirdgen.org. There are many examples of forced induction SBCs some of which are 305s. Look up Saturn5, he had a 305 with twin superchargers, and had some very good success with the set-up. His was in a Malibu. I don't think a TTSBC in an S30 will be all that difficult, especially with all the open room between the rad and engine, with a SBC. A single (larger) turbo could also be used in the same location, and produce some very good results. BTW, What's the issue?

Yeah, those guys are nuts, they've added a few new systems since I was on there last. One of these days, I'll build a custom PC case, I have too many ideas and not enough time.

HAHAHAHA, That's awesome! I wish I had thought about that when I made a heat sheild for a Cavalier I did, I'm not sure that it would have worked for that application, due to the tight fit where I placed the turbo, but I would have tried it for sure.

Thank you. I have been to that site before, just didn't put it together.

What is MM?

I should clarify, I will crimp the large guage lugs, and then flow solder into them to seal them from moisture and contaminants. The lugs I use are open on the terminal end in addition to the wire end.