Six_Shooter

I use a single heat soldering gun (well it's a dual heat range, but only ever use the highest setting), and have never experianced a failure or solder connection failure or breakage problem with the thousands of connections I've made, you lose count after so many. I do agree that many people don't flow the solder properly, but it's not usually a problem with a single heat setting being used, but that it wasn't hot enough to get the solder to flow out. I use Weller solder guns, model 8200 to be exact. I have used these guns for years, I usually go through one a year. I have tried a couple others, but these ones seem to work best for the automotive electrical that is most commonly done. There are times when I need to break out the propane torch to solder the terminal lugs to the 4AWG+ wire, but that's pretty rare. I also agree that using plumbing solder is the worst idea, I've had to repair many installations where someone previous has attempte dto solder with plumbing solder.

In most cases a glass fender weighs more than the steel counter part. When my uncle had his glass buisness going, we weighed parts to see if there owuld be or how much weight savings there was. My hood for my Skyhawk saved 20 lbs alone IIRC. The new hood weighed less than 15 lbs. Most fenders we found weighed only a few lbs, usually less than 10 lbs or so. In most cases the glass required to produce the same part with the strength needed to withstand the aero forces, or even just day to day use (shopping carts, leaning/working on the car, etc, came out to be around 15 to 20 lbs for the same area. This was taking into account a lightweight skin and then 'glass bracing on the inside. Just wasnt feasible from a weight standpoint. I cant imagine an S30 fender to weigh a whole lot on stock form. 'Glass fenders would be good for molding in flares, or widebody, or as mentioned where there are rust filled originals and finding metal replacements is next to impossible.

Ive been wondering the same thing, and its not join date, as I have more blue than other people that joined before me. Its a mystery... LOL Im sure on of the admins will chime in and let us know. Maybe its pupose is now filled with this thread, to see how long it would take to have someone ask, and through telekinetic waves, measures and shows our curiosity of the blue bar.

xduex I dont understand why you would want just one either.

Dyno vid:

Ahh, I guess that could be considered epic fail, I'm not surprised, the interweebnet is either making people more stupid, or is just allowing better access for the morons to show off thier stupidity.

Not a member so I can't see what's going on, so a synopsis of the fail?

Interetsing, I'll have to read up on that.

Is there a compiled list of trannies and what they are rated at as far as torque capabilities that will fit (easily) into these cars? Currently I'm looking at a TKO to end up with, but would be nice to know about other available stock trannies.

MSD also has those connectors, but looks to be cheaper per unit to buy those kits. I think I just might have to invest in one of those.

Basically what I would have suggested, I just wouldn't have had any part numbers. On most engines the general concensus seems to be about .040" quench distance as being good. On a race only engine, a tighter quench could be used, but requires very CAREFUL assembly and measuring process. This is usually something (for a street engine) to err on the side of slightly too much quench distance instead of not enough. I do agree .003" piston hight above the deck isn't much to worry about.

Wire to wire connections should ONLY be soldered in a car. I work with automotive electrical for a living, and all of my wire to wire connections are soldered. I've seen people use other forms of connection and all fail but soldering. I NEVER use but connectors, while they work, they provide a high(er) resistance path for a wire to wire connection than twisting and soldering does. Get rid of that Marette, ASAP, those are one of the worst types of connections to use in a car, only one worse is twisting alone, without insulating (I've seen that too). Marettes are meant to be used in a house, not a car that moves, and goes through heat cycles much more often than a house does.

Awesome!!!

Yeah, shipping could be pricey, but may not be at the same time, depending on who is used for shipping. Shipping could also be cheaper than building or buying a rotisserie as well. But this is where getting the information out of who has what and who need it where, can help all of us out.

I was thinking the same thing, well at least the mutiple combinations of trannies, locations, part. Even the waythe shifter shaft is designed would have an effect on how the gate plate would work. They seem to be used with only small diameter round shifter shafts. Would be kinda cool to have though.

I see so many people here have or had used a rotisserie for thier S30 builds and restorations. What I'm wondering is if anyone that has these that are not using them or will not be using them would be willing to sell, lend or exchange them. Obviously I'm looking for one for myself, but I'm sure other HybridZers would be looking as well. This thread could serve as a way to set up contact between people who have them and people who need them. There has to be at least a few of you out there, that have a rotisserie sitting in your shed or garage collecting dust or worse yet outside collecting rust. Lets put them to good use. I've seen a few different designs. Even listing or linking to schematics of rotisseries in this thread would be of help for those people that are looking to build one of thier own. What's everyone else think of this idea?

Do you have a link to the bar?

Oh god, ANOTHER Slow and Luxurious?

You can get tube notchers like the ones here: http://www.jd2.com/ There are cheaper ones that allow for angle adjustments, usually up to about 50 degrees on most. Use VERY good hole saws (read: expensive), go slow, and use lots of cutting fluid. In Mild Steel you shouldn't have too many problems, but if you were using crome-moly, then you would have a tedious task on your hands. the most difficult part is getting the notch lined up, just right, especially when you have a bent piece that needs to be notched on both ends, for something like a halo bar, or funny car cage, or even just the seat belt crossbar (the bar that goes accross the main hoop behind the seats).

x2. I have made more than a few items from 'glass, helped my uncle on a regular basis, with his fibreglass business, I actually helped encourage him to persue it and helped with the first few products in developement. I've seen first hand what it takes. I almost took over what he started after he died, but due to health concerns coming from my Grandmother and even my Grandfather, they discouraged that. I think they both believe that the fibreglass and carbon fibre had a large part in his death, where as other factors were MUCH more likely. But since my Grandfather became executor of his "estate", and so I was at his mercy to have access to the fibreglass molds and supplies. The molds are still behind the garage 6 years later. Sorry got off on a tangent there.... The key to making quality 'glass or carbon products is in the mold. If the mold is ♥♥♥♥, then no matter what you do with the lay-up process will make any difference. The next part that makes a difference is using the right resin and 'glass mat. The crap resin you buy at NAPA or Canadian Tire will not only make it expensive but is not the best resin to use for a production part. Quick repairs to an existing 'glass item for the DIYer is ok though. When ever I can I avoid using the easily accesable resin mentined above and use un-waxed resin that can only be bought in 5 gallon sizes or larger, not cheap, but is the resin to use.

Ok, well, you need to use the lowest setting. I keep forgetting that some (most) DMMs have seletable ranges, mine is auto ranging, so I forget to mentin that often times. Sorry about about. It seems that either the cone of the speaker was moving, or your batteries are dieing. You should get a steady reading. Make sure you measure the speaker in a non-windy environment, and don't push on the cone of the speaker. The moving cone creates a voltage and change sthe resistance reading. I'm not sure what you mean by "squiggly line", might be a continutity test or ACV. Usually AC Volts is signified by a "~". You shouldn't read anything on ACV. Can you get any pics of the speaker, especially the sticker on the magnet? and possibly your meter to show what's going on?

I'll come back later and study this some more, but wanted to ask and mention this: Are you using or still have the stock '73 tach in the car? The '73 tach, is a voltage triggered tach, where the positive side of the coil coil is fed through the tach. When changing to a different ignition system, most swappers seem to swap to the later points triggered tach. I know the 280Z uses a points trigger tach (I'm getting one from a '78). I don't recall what year this changed. I have seen some install instructions on using the original tach with an MSD ignition system. This was on zhome.com. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ThomasMSD.htm'>http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ThomasMSD.htm There are a few other ignition articles as well, under the "How-tos" menu. http://www.zhome.com

If you have a DMM (Digital MultiMeter), set it to Ohms, place one probe on the positive terminal and the other on the negitive terminal. Polarity doesn't matter for this. You will find that the speaker will not read exactly 4 Ohms, or 8 Ohms, etc, but will be fairly close. Most 4 Ohm speakers that I have tested usually read about 3.6 Ohms. A very few have read over 4 Ohms. If you have a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) AKA "Analog multimeter", you can use this the same way, but the reading will not be as exact. The speakers that you want to test will most likely be 4 Ohm. Most aftermarket speakers in the mid and high freqeuncy range are 4 Ohm. There are a few exceptions, but are not very common at all. You would connect these in the same way as you would an 8 Ohm speaker. This will cause the amplifier (in the head unit) to put out a theoretical double the output at the same volume setting. This means you would not need to turn the head unit volume dial up as much for the same level of output. The increased efficiancy of the speaker will also help in this regard. The only time you would experiance any problems using a 4 Ohm speaker on a head unit that originall ran 8 Ohm speakers is at higher output levels, where the highest demand of the amplifier is desired, which you would probably not want or need to turn to with a new set of speakers. Most times there are no problems however, since the automotive amplifiers, especially older ones (even those inside the head units), had little to no current limiting capabilities, which means that it will just keep playing, without turning off. This can lead to a problem if you only listen at higher volumes as this can cause the amplifier to over heat. In the '80s MANY rear speakers of GM cars were 10 Ohm, and I would regularly switch them out for aftermarket 4 Ohm speakers on the OEM head unit and never be told of any problems. The customers were always happy with the increased output and clarity and most commented on how they didn't need to turn the volume knob up as much as they would previously.

They can vary all the way from 45A to 100ish, depending on the year and the options that the vehcile had that it came out of. The nice thing is the 10SI (early) alternators have the stock output potential engraved on them. IIRC this is on the front case half. It has been a while since I had to do anything with the early alternators, as I converted a couple of my cars to the later style or they had the later style already (12SI).