AZGhost623

Im just going to pull it all off tomorrow and spray the cometic gasket down with the permatex copper spray. Was told to do 3 light sprays, with drying inbetween, then torque to spec. I was also told that over torquing by 5lbs is also ok. I dont feel comfortable using a radiator stop leak solution.... Should take me a couple hours to pull it all off, and another couple to put it back on. Hopefully by end of day on Sunday Ill have some positive results and can get back to tuning this thing. Im also thinking an oil change will be a good idea as well after this whole mess....

Just talked to an old mopar guy at autozone. He says cometics leak a few times until they get heat cycled and then stop leaking. If still leaks then spray three light coats on gasket. Should I just bite the bullet and pull it all apart?

Installed dry as the instructions said to. I went out and bought a craftsman torque wrench instead of the oreilly 30$ torque wrench I had. All headbolts went another 1/4 turn until the click. Cleaned up everything real good, and brought the engine up to operating temp. After letting it sit for about 30 minutes went out to check on it and I have some very very small drips now in two spots. both on the drivers side one in the rear, and one up front. I also read on the mustang forum copper spray helps, so Ill go grab some permatex copper sealant and do the whole spray and pray and see what happens...

With my new P90 head from Rebello I had to switch to an MLS gasket to get the necessary operating height. Along with the MLS gasket purchase, I got ARP head studs as well. Installed the cometic gasket dry, and torqued down the bolts in 3 segments of 20 ft/lbs each starting from middle working my way out. Getting everything running/tuning and bringing the engine up to operating temp tonight, I realized I have a couple very small seeping coolant leaks. I never had any kind of leaks before. I am 90% sure the headbolt holes are 'dry' holes, not wet holes correct? If they are wet Im wondering if coolant is seeping up the threads and need to be better sealed? My task for tomorrow is to get the valve cover off, and retorque to make sure everything is 60 ft/lbs. While the head was off to Rebello, I didnt do anything with the block. I cleaned the surface well to get any gunk off from old gasket and that was it. It was not resurfaced. I realize that Cometic states it needs a straight edge on both head and block to work properly. But with no previous leaks, should I suspect something not being straight? Do any of you guys have experience with MLS gaskets and if so can you give me some advice? Am I on the right track with retorquing the head bolts to ensure 60ft/lbs?

He hasnt gotten it running yet, will be running soon for the event coming up. He will sell a kit to convert it, but still requires a lot of welding/fabrication work. So far this is the custom parts he will sell, but will contain chains and other readily available parts to go along with it. http://i.imgur.com/FRtGNI0.jpg

http://spark88.blog.fc2.com/blog-category-50.html Pretty current up to date with his progress. Its got todays date on his blog with pictures. You need to go back in the pages to find where he starts, then read forward to get to the most recent topic. Looks like he plans on showing it off during nostalgic days in an S30, but then later says a Skyline.

So here is the rebello head. What suprised me, is that little work looks to have been done on the porting of the intake/exhaust ports, but the throats are all opened up. A Standard gasket fits, doesnt need to be modified. The cannon intake manifold has also been modified, and has had its throat opened up quite a bit to match my DCOE 45's. The intake manifold also had its balance tube modified to block it off between the intake ports. https://imgur.com/a/eTHcr#0 New Supertech intake valves New Supertech valve guides New Supertech springs New Supertech spring seats New Datsun Exhaust valves New Viton Valve Seals New Lash pads New weight matched rockers New rocker posts (didnt like the old ones) New Rebello Cam 63di 487/287 - tight lash setup at .007 Cometic MLS Gasket .055 Port work, valve unshrouding P90 Cylinder head previously shaved .080 ARP Kit Valve cover gasket Intake/exhaust gasket Should have it running tommorrow. Dont know how drivable it will be, ill have to retune my carbs for sure. My head was a mess from being poorly put together by the original builder, and then myself and others trying to fix it here and there. Rockers kept falling off when driving it at high rpm. I had enough and sent it off to get properly fixed. Dave mentioned it was typical, but required a lot more work than originally quoted once he saw it. Original quote was around 1400$. Once he saw it, and the condition it was in it ran me way north of that. Im not worred about the block part of it. its got about 500 miles on it since its rebuild last year. Time will tell tho... you fix one thing, and then something else happens... Never had any issues on the block side, its just been all with the head. So I think Im on the right track here so far.

Dont do it! This guy bought a replacement turbo for his Audi from CXRacing and it died every 1000 miles http://www.reddit.com/r/cars/comments/1vy5i5/my_reallife_ebay_turbocharger_experience/

Everything is just speculation at this point because he doesn't really know numbers with a semi stock block with his cylinder head work like I mentioned in post #34. He gave me numbers on a 240Z stroker that was over 300hp with this head at flywheel. Getting 250hp out of this with my existing mods he speculates will be no problem which was my expectations. Going with group consensus all the power is locked up in the head is what I plan to show. My game plan behind this is to just have the head work done without any balancing of the internals. Get it properly tuned via a dyno and show what is realistic. Then later this year or next, get the internals balanced and re-dyno to show the value on it. Doing it in stages should show realistically what you can expect. My assumption is with the few things I have done, it should be easily then comparable to know going from stock block (semi stock) internals to a 3.0L+ we can then easily tell the difference between the difference stages between each mod. As far as cost goes... my situation was a bit unique. I knew sending it to him he was going to find loads of problems and he did which required extra work. He still charges the same amount that Rob240z showed on the previous page on post #28 which is what was originally quoted to me before he got it.

Havent forgotten about this thread, its been 3 long months... much longer than I anticipated.. Dave finally has my new head back in route to me. I should get it Monday 2/3, but wont be able to install it just yet... I have to get a custom MLS gasket made due to some measurements I took, and his tight requirements for making sure it operates right within his strict tolerances. I sent him overnight my MLS gasket today so he can shim it up. I am expecting to get the MLS gasket back late next week so I can hopefully install/tune the weekend of 2/8... My cannon intake manifold was also port match to the head, and he blocked the balance tube off. Ill make sure to post some pictures and eventually some video when its running. The cam he put in it is his 63di which is a tight lash cam .007 with 487 lift, and 280 duration. Super performance for a cam with under a 500 lift he said and real good for a street car. Ill be able to provide a parts list of everything that was done once I get the invoice. Very excited! Cant wait!

You might need a high compression starter... i needed one with my new motor the stock motor just wouldnt cut it.

Very very early on before I met you, I talked with Bob Reams, he doesnt do weber tuning anymore. Are you maybe thinking of going the fuel injection route now?

Looking good!

WHen I bought some gaskets from MSA just a few months ago, they were in a DNJ box. The head gasket was definately DNJ, but unknown on the exhaust/intake side. It seems like a good gasket...

well you could always get a copper gasket if your looking for something durable. http://stores.ebay.com/copper-gaskets-unlimited/_i.html?_nkw=DATSUN&submit=Search&_sid=23800160

http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/products/os-giken-ts-series-twin-plate-clutch-kit-used-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx/ Its used but less than 1000$ something to get you started on with a twin plate setup. Just probably needs the disc's changed out ...

Those are two different parts Victory is much taller than the BRE. http://www.thezstore.com/images/large501606-brecomp.jpg

Weird on DNJ. It says right on their gasket page that its graphite... Maybe the Datsun stuff doesnt get made that way... My exhaust gasket is DNJ, and looks like a graphite/metal composite blend. http://www.enginecomponents.com/gaskets/gaskets.html

I think most DNJ stuff is that way...

Gah... I talked with Dave in length today, and got the scoop after he checked everything out on my head. So many problems he found, and I told him to fix it all carte blanche. Should be a few weeks before I get it back. I have had this head in the hands of a few backyard mechanics here in town. I realized at the last backyard fix that things weren't being measured or being paid attention to. It was just being put together to run...I get the feeling thats what many backyard guys do around here for just a daily street driver. So that comes in line with him finding out lash pads are all over the place, as well as cam not being centered correctly, valve guides being eaten up, and other problems. I am definately paying twice for the mistakes of many now! Lesson to be had here, is when your doing something make sure its all the right size, and you measuring things out to make sure the cam lobes are correct, wipe pattern, and cam towers are all lined up. Make sure you have the right sized cam for what you want to do, and if in doubt have your cam profiled! Do the job right the first time and you will save money in the long run. It helps to read read read, as Im paying the price now and I should have said something before to these backyard guys but I trusted what they were doing. Sure it ran, but I kept having problems over and over again. So with his new special valves, guides, lash, and his cam, along with big intake port and rest of his head modifications for valve unshrouding and doing the valve pockets its over what I expected to pay...In the end it will be worth it to know its properly setup by a professional and I shouldnt have the problems I previously kept running into. Its also worth it because of the HP numbers he knows Ill be able to make easily which is surpassing my expectations!

What do the NASCAR guys use to start their engines? I dont even think they have starters do they? They just use a tool to start it and then its done. Also, you could get rid of your battery and go with a capacitor battery replacement... As long as your alternator works you dont need that dead weight being hauled around. Something like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3x_kYq3mHM

Nice find!

uh... did you try rockauto.com ? Shows they got em...

How about a fiberglass or carbonfiber hood for weight reduction? aluminum drive shaft should save you some too. Quartermaster, AP, OS Giken, Tilton, 10000RPM make multi-plate clutches in 7.25", 5.5", 5", and 4.5" diameters that can installed behind the L6 that turns out to be 10lbs or less complete! But ya ain't getting one for 250$ ... Its not a direct swap tho from a comment JohnC made in another post "you need to change to an annular clutch release setup". Be prepared to be doing maintenance on these things regularly... I also heard through the googles anything that fits a 240SX SOHC will also work on our L28's ....

wasnt meant to be as detailed, just roughly what can go and what you can do while your at it to get rid of more of that clutter. Its what I did when I pulled mine out. Anything thats attached to the EFI harness and computer can be torn out. everything else stays is basically the jist of it just like you say.