AZGhost623

Interesting...so what kinda cars end up being in the ST3 group? Super Touring 3 (ST3) = “Adjusted Wt/Hp Ratio†equal to, or greater than, 9.0:1 So something around 250hp-ish is what your looking to obtain? Sounds like fun Ill be at the next Nasa event in December if my head gets back from Rebello in time. That should finally be a good chance to get it out there for the first time. Its been one thing after another keeping me out of NASA lately....

Dang, Ill have to come and stop by and see it once my car is back up on the road. heh is this my doing introducing you to NASA? =) Im thinking you should go the SBC/LS1 route with this guy, that way you get the best of both worlds =) Your aircraft hanger is going to turn into a Z parking lot!

12:1 compression? Thats some close tolerances...along with welding up the combustion chamber and race gas, dunno if thats really a streetable option with tripples

I dont have any reason Im not going that high up to 7500-8000 rpm its just that I dont see a need to or afraid of something failing at that high of rpm. But I know if I do, my DCOE 45's can more than handle it along with my ARP bolts and MLS gasket. I would be more than estatic if I got 250hp or more out of my setup after all this headwork, however that wasnt primarily my goal, just to have more oompf... I recently managed to get a set of used high compression 89mm Kameari pistons for a 3.0L setup for a 100$ in near new condition. Ill get some FJ20 rods, and just pack it all away for a rainy day when I am ready to tear the block apart in a few years perhaps.

Anything attached to the ignition module can go, same with the computer on the drivers side. EFI harness can go You will need to modify your distributor if your keeping it which I dont recommend doing; goto a crank fired ignition otherwise http://datsunzgarage.com/weber/ The fusible links can get pulled out and replaced with a maxfuse setup. He doesnt sell the kit anymore, but you can easily find it now. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html You will need to swap your alternator out to one that has a voltage regulator in it. Thats about it... roughly...

Hmm I thought the bigger point of the conversation was getting the headwork done yielded the best bang for the buck. Where as going with bigger displacement +3.0L was ok, but didnt yield as much as a performance upgrade than a bigger flowing head.

Well interesting, spoke with Dave today. He got my cannon intake and head. He is going to port match the intake to the head, as well as check the balance tube on the intake which he has found to be messed up at times. After talking to him, about what I wanted he kept saying the same thing, that usually these mods go on 3.0+ liter engines, not stock, that he usually works on big engines. Was a bit weird, but he said he would get back to me after he does his preliminary investigative work on the equipment i sent him. I told him I trusted him to make the best decisions possible for what Im looking to get. He also didnt like my cam, and said he was going to profile it to find out exactly what it is (I have reservations myself) and possibly go with something bigger. I told him I still wanted it streetable, where I didnt have to dump it off the line to get it going. He also asked where I want the engine to live at and I told him as high as 6500 to 7000 rpms, which is also lower on the scale where he said he is used to 7000-8500 rpms is where he is used to setting up cars for. So he said something low end with torque may be good vs high horsepower. Decisions desicions. Basically Ill let him make that call based on his experience and knowledge. But Ill be very happy either way to get a good flowing head, and being able to say its Rebello work

There's a whole section on here devoted to it. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/34-megasquirt/

yeah its hard to tell the difference, but there is a guy who has the victory type in our local club. I think they are pretty close looking from pictures. I do like the victory and will probably be what i end up going with.

dude thats seriously over the top... dang I hope some bad karma gets on those guys who did that.

man if you ever need to get the valve cover off or do work on the top end, its going to be a PIA. Thats pretty wild tho...

Looking at pictures, I cant really tell a difference between the Victory style Spoiler, and the 432 style. Does anyone have dimensions?

Well you could always go with a reproduction Datsun Competition hood scoop like mine. =) That should definitely alleviate any kind of pressure buildup under the hood. Cut the middle hump out, and bolt this guy in. Hood does not lose any rigidity... http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy299/77s30/ZdayZ%202k10%20trip/DSCN0846.jpg http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0016/52/25/16172552_large.jpg

Well I got the headoff tonight. Will goto home depot and get some materials to build wooden box Sunday and ship it out Monday. Cant wait!!!

Wow thanks Rob for all that great information! I did call Rebello tonight on my way home, his prices haven't changed from what you listed He said that it should flow 200 cfm with the right cam. He said he will give me all the details on my head so I know everything about. So I think Ill go with the pro here, and spend a bit more to make it right. I would trust Rebello over anyone else. As far as Blake "1 fast z" I dont think he is in the game anymore. I've checked around locally and no one uses him, or can even get ahold of him to do work. Had some people tell me he is doing big contract jobs for heavy equipment and government work. I think everyone provided some great information here. Ive got a real good start on my setup, and just need some money to go into my head. With a nice cleared up port job, valve and seat work I think it will compliment my engine specs just fine. "Spend your money wisely, spend it once, and make sure you get good value for what you spend it on." At this point, the headwork is where its going to be which comes in way under what I was prepared to spend.

So after reading about, should work towards a 35mm-38mm port setup, with somewhere around 200 cfm? Or is that too ambitious for a street setup with high compression NA, stock valve sizes 280/480 106 LC, headers, EDIS, and +1 overbore? Where should one land with a good flow output for a good street port?

Its $200 an hour here if you supply the parts (if using carbs). Buying multiple hours you get discounts, so $1000 is a ton of time. The best idea is to get it close as to what you think it is, and then have them do the rest on the machine with tweaking parts here and there.

Other than Rebello, who else can do this kind of work? I did reach out to Braap, but he is unavailable until summer/spring next year. Betamotorsports website seems to have disappeared as well. There isn't anyone I would trust in Arizona to do this right unfortunately. Only had 1 problem with TEP last year with my DCOE's he just sold them to me stock as is rather than jetting them like he said he would do for my setup. But other than that it was fine working with him.

If going to a longrod/short piston is futile in the sense it really doesnt offer much of a performance gain, Ill stick with what I got in the block today and get it all balanced. Im in agreement that headwork is the most important piece in unlocking flow. Ill reach out to Steve Nelson next week at TEP, and tell him about the changes I want done on the head. Ill go with +1mm oversized valves which seem to be found easily, and make sure he opens up the rest of the head as discussed. While the head is off and gone for 3-4 weeks, Ill pull the block and have the internals balanced with the flywheel at a shop here in town. I already have two hours of credit time with a dyno shop here in town. Since the car is carb'd I have to supply parts/jets and things since they dont have access to these weber parts. My plan will be to get it close here at home, then buy a few sizes of air correctors and main jets to tune in the high rpm side at the dyno shop. I appreciate all the great responses, and knowledge that has been shared. Thanks guys!

Great info Xnke! Thanks for taking the time to write that all out, Ill buy you lunch the next time Im in KY I am using a respectable Datsun shop over in California who has been doing this for years, and is a little more affordable than Rebello. They will be doing all the machine work and purchased a ton of my stuff through him last year. I hoped to do this in phases. Get the head work done first, and then next spring do the rest of it. I budgeted about $4500 for this setup not overly expensive IMO... That includes pistons/rods forged, required headwork, and balancing the rotating assembly. Everything else is already on the car. I will be putting it together. I was planning on shipping my head out this week, but now Im not too sure after your comments. Already got the 2.5" Exhaust, 10# flywheel, Headers, Edis, DCOE 152's, P90 with .080's shaved off, Crower 480/280 @ .050 with 106 lobe center CAM, and Schneider valve train components, oil cooler, and big aluminum radiator. What I know about the block, it has flat top ITM pistons that are oversized +1mm (.040). Dont know anything else. So I figured Ill just take care of all that while its all out. That way I know everything thats going on in my engine and I know its done right. I know I have read many times, balancing the rotating assembly gives you great performance along with windage or scraper components. Ive always been under the impression that everything needs to be sized appropriately hence the big valve mod for what I was trying to accomplish. But if I am to stay with what I got, and just get the head work done, 45/37 (+1mm) is what your recommending? Im all up for saving $$$ if I am going down the wrong path here. I am curious as to why your saying the engine will have a half life with a short piston/long rod combo. Can you provide any insight as to why that would be? Flushing this kind of money down the tubes just to do it all over again in 3-5 years is not what I was looking for. Car is registered as a classic so maybe 1-2k miles a year.. those will be 1-2k fun miles tho, around 7000 rpm mark heh... You sure about the oil pump? I always heard the F54 turbo oil pump was the best flowing one out there?

Yep SI is out, not until next year he wont get any. Google searches led me to Ferrea late this afternoon, and I sent them an email. Yes, the valve stems on the N47 heads are .080 longer. Shop knows to mill them down if needed. Thanks for clarifying Xnke! I guess there is always Kameari if I get desperate lol Hoping that this leads somewhere tho for a good used set I can polish up and make use of.

Looking for a set of 6 46mm Intake valves for the L28 head. If it matters its a P90 head, but I dont think its does.

To me with these engines every little helps in getting HP out. Is it worth it? I guess thats all in the eye of the beholder right? I like to be different and have something unique. Is it worth it to spend $4000 on this kind of setup in parts, just to say I did? (cost so far for everything I want done with forged components, cast would be way cheaper) Thats what Im trying to find answers on. Is it better to spend $2500 instead in getting the head all pimped out including the runners for a full race head? Just another variable to the mix I guess, but I have read many times here the power is unlocked once you get into that head with a professional who knows what they are doing, and I have no doubt. Thats why I have made it part of my process, to what extent I dont know yet. I used the ozdat util, as well as. PMC has said he has great success dyno'ing different rod setups, and seems to have very good performance with the 140mm rods, and his custom pistons he gets from JE. This topic is what got me onto this kind of setup and started my research two weeks ago. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106806-long-rod-short-piston-combo-l28-tech-questions/?p=999382 I did reach out to JE about getting a set, but the data they need is way beyond my knowledge, so I reached out to PMC and working with Les now on possibly acquiring the parts (dont know what export costs from Australia is going to run) but he seems to be the man who knows this stuff for sure so goto the source. Of course they cant share customer data either unless they give me their super secret part number they create for their customer. I would really like to hear from someone who has done a 3.0L setup and how well it performs/responds using all lightweight materials. I have heard multiple times lightweight material, and the longrod/short piston make for a great setup, not only in Z cars, but in any engine. Specifically what Im looking for is with this setup can you drive it around town easily? Can you drive to the track, have fun with it at the track for the day, and then drive home ok with it? One car to do it all? Thats what I would like. Again, the car wont be a DD, but will be out during the winter months (AZ Winters), maybe up the mountains, club drives, things like that. Also some occasional track days with NASA. I am not familiar with the offset grind technique, so Ill have to go read up on that a bit. But if its 200$ while its out getting balanced & lightened, thats a no brainer.

Bending the rules is what Im about =) This is why I am looking at the long rod/short piston setup. Its different and not the norm which makes it difficult finding info on it. It comes out considerably more affordable than a 3.1 stroker since you dont need to find the crank. You end up with a 3.0L using the stock crank with this kind of setup. The pricing isnt too bad since Ill be doing this in phases, its not that big of a hit that can be spread over the next 6 months compared to a single hit all at once would be tough. Ill be sending my head off very soon, possibly next week to have the work done. Oil cooler, EDIS, DCOE 152's, headers, shaved head, all that work was done last year in my initial build. My main issue is how the previous builder put this engine together, im not happy with his shortcuts I have found, and has actually caused me problems in the past. So I want to do it right so I actually know whats in my engine. Dyno tuning will also happen once I get my head back. I am assuming more torque (atleast thats what the ozdat tool shows) with the long rod setup, but other than that, hopefully someone who has this kind of setup can chime in and provide some more information on how well it works, and holds up. It wont be a daily driver, and I definately dont want to have to dump it off the line every time, thats no fun. Part of the appeal to me is also the uniqueness of this setup since no one here in town (atleast from my local club postings) has this kind of setup too... Other than PMC alluding to he has run this 140mm rod setup and has had good success with it with his custom pistons, I cant really find anything else on it. I just want someone to elaborate as to what to expect with this kind of setup, and how well it works in a street car.

Hmm i have looked for heads actually, but not very in depth. The ones I found were all rebuilt tho, so they wanted between 500-900$ for them. Its a good idea tho.