Corzette

Well good to hear theres more power. Ya gotta go back to the basics. Vacuum leaks, intake leaks, rockers set properly, good plugs, wires, cap and rotor not burnt, coil wires connected properly, good coil, plug wires on correctly and at last the fuel delivery, good filter, proper pressure thru out 5 to 7 PSI constant. Timing correct.....once ya get that figured out then you can play with the carb...sounds like the 670 will be much better... Terry

Awesome...makes me home sick. Sure were alot of 300ZXs out there! Terry

The stocks jets on that carb is 65 and 68. In my opinion thats too small. My car lost power with 66s up front. You will just have to play with it. My 350 runs pretty good with 68s up front and 76s in back on the double pumper. I would say try it like it is now and if you want more, up the primary jets at least 2 sizes at a time. I would say 68s in front for medium performance and 70s max for a 670. rears try to stay 3 to 6 sizes bigger. Usually 10 for a DP but with yours I wouldnt go that big a spread. Id try 68/71 and compare. All ya have to do is go buy some 71s and put the rears to the front. Looks like only a 3 size spread from front to rear on that carb. Thats just me...let us know how the comparison is from the 600 and go from there... Terry

Damn....well Id still put her on and try it first. It will be better than what you had. Id ask proform if the there main body will work on it. How ever theres is for a double pumper I think. Holley may sell a 770 carb base you can get and swap everything over..... Terry

Pound, here ya go...hope this helps.. http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10219-3.pdf Read this too.. http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10308.pdf Check your primary and secondary jets. They should be 72 fronts and 75 rears provided they werent changed.... Also there is a list number and production date on or near the front plate of the choke tower. Go to page 6 in the 1st link above and you will see the line pointing to it. It should be stamped there... Terry

SO pound, whats the deal? Did it improve? Terry

Parts matching is a must for best perfornance. We all know that story. What does the spec sheet say for your cam exactly? MIne is 2500-6000. Peak torque is 4500. Dyno showed 4500-6129 respectfully. Comp Cams are usually pretty close. A convertor rated at 3500 will usually brake stall about 1000 below or so and flash there after. You also have to remember we are not launching 3300 pound sleds so the stall doesnt have to compensate for vehicle weight as much. Your rear gears will also have alot to do with cam selection etc. I would tend to agree with Jake in the fact that a 2500 stall would be better for street/strip but it would be nice to know what your numbers are real world before choosing. By the way, large cams will only hurt your power if you dont have the right heads to accomodate...been there done that! Terry

I would go at least 500 above your CAMS starting specs...2500 plus 500 = 3000 stall. If you looking for more strip Id go 1000 above as did ZFan and myself. I cut .5 off the quarter just by changing my convertor. Street only is a different story...however your torque ban is pretty short so that confuses me....maybe better with less convertor to get a longer torque ban....my 2 cents. Terry

Sweet!!!!!!!!!

You are now banned..... T

How about this? How much HP? http://web01.racingjunk.com/exec/ca/view/378668/classifiedad.html

Turn it side ways.....A 5lb bottle will be gone in a heart beat. Well unless your only using like 25HP pills, maybe 50HP pills max would get ya maybe 4 or 5 runs....that stuff disppears quick...also a bottle warmer is must if its cool out. I just ran bolts thru the floor and mounted solid. I like yiour idea though.... Terry

Turn it side ways.....A 5lb bottle will be gone in a heart beat. Well unless your only using like 25HP pills, maybe 50HP pills max would get ya maybe 4 or 5 runs.... Terry

Mike you need to get all that STUFF out of the back and it will be no problem. Here are a couple of pics, I have fuel cell, battery in the back too but plenty of room. http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL83/533777/5761821/73925537.jpg http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL83/533777/5761821/73925561.jpg Terry

Lets us know how it turns out... Terry

I just did a serach on the 385 fast burn crates and most people are using anything from the 670 Holley Street Avenger to the 750 Vac Sec for street use. Your call... Terry

I do prefer manual choke in the 3310 series BTW. Get the quick change kit and then you can change the secondary springs in a matter of minutes and wont have to disasemble the carb to do it. Terry

Thats a nice carb. I ran the 3310 series when I used a vac secondary. I forgot to ask what your intent was. If its daily driver then yes vac sec is better. If you want all you can be then DP is the way to go. Gas mileage will sufer however. The prob with vac secs on our cars is that its hard to get them to open up being the car is so light. Putting lighter springs etc help but a pain in the butt unless you buy the quick change kit. This is the carb I have: 750 cfm Classic Carb 510-O-4779C I purchased the main body replacement from PROFORM without the choke tower for better airflow. Not saying you have to do that. The classic is awesome. I wish you could borrow a carb first to make sure thats what it is....it sure sounds like it to me though. Research and see what carb GM had on thier test engine that put out 385 horses... Im excited for ya... Terry

Besides the fact that I agree that the Holley pump is less than desirable, not to mention its louder than my fricken engine, here are two other things I experienced withe fuel delivery. I would get a bubbling noise in my tank when the pump started running slower and my Fuel Pressure gauge would go from 7 to like 1 after about 1 hour of driving. I tried everything to fix the problem, then found out what it was..... VAPOR LOCK in the front carb bowl (could here it boiling). Now this was in Texas and it gets hot there. I actually tracked the temp outside that starts it....at 85 deg F it will start doing this (with hood on ofcourse). I stalled at the track several times with hood on because of it. Thats why I run with the hood off in the summer......because IT WORKS! If you dont have a fuel reg, plumb one in to track. Try running with your hood off and see if it cures the problem. Terry

CorZette of course. This is because I originally had an L88 Hood Cowl on her and sorta looked like a little vette, hence CorZette. The Orange one is called INAZUMA which means Lightning. I know its inappropriate because she is a show car and has no balls yet but I was looking for a Japanese word that had the Z in the middle like CorZette did. inaZuma corZette.....A quick head and cam change will cure that....OK....Im done.... Terry

Well let me throw this out at ya. You say that your running a 600 Edlebrock Vacuum Secondary? My Engine and yours is very similiar except for heads and cam. I ran a 650DP Holley on mine with stock jets and the car had now power off the line or really anywhere else. Now this was a 650DP. I upped the jets like 4 sizes and she came alive. I then mounted the 750DP and it evolved to the beast of today. Your engine is putting out 385 horses bro....that requires more gas/air etc. Im not BSin here, this is from experience. I think your carb is too small and she needs more fuel/air. If you have anyone that can let you put a 750DP on her, please try it. Im almost certain youll be glad you did. Terry

Thats it...Ill take three! Terry

Me too.....but nothing wrong with two inline 4s....lol.