dhp123166

Left you a message on your phone...

Okay, after removing my loop and plugging the holes my car operates... ...pretty much like it always has. But removing the loop takes a weak point and aesthetically unpleasing part out of the engine bay. That seals the deal for me...

Okay so I remembered wanting to do this for a long time. Then I forgot. Then I saw this thread and said " Oh yeah, I remember... Let's do it"!! Here's what I ascertained: (All temp. measurements were done with an Autometer water temp. gauge which has its' sensor right before the thermostat in the housing.) These are all preliminary observations as well. Plugging the holes seems to stabilize the temperature of the coolant. It seemed that the thermostat first opened at a higher temp. than it did with the heating hoses looped into one another. BTW I have a 180 degree F thermostat. The car also seemed to run a little hotter (3-4 degrees F) than it has been. But once the thermostat was open it stayed open. This is how I remember it working when I had a functioning heater. When the loop was in place the thermostat opened and closed alot in the course of normal vehicle operation. Aesthetically it cleaned up the engine bay a little more so that is always beneficial...

How about a product review forum or does that just pave the way for fakers to come on line and try to sell stuff???

I have one as well but shipping might be problematic?? No lie, I just sold one down here for $100.00

What will you give for them?

And on a more positive note, no professional car thief is going to waste his time with our thirty year old + cars. They have only intrinsic value to us but no monetary value out on the black market. If I was driving a Honda or Saturn I'd be a little more worried...

Real high tech stuff!

Okay here's my anecdote concerning vehicle fire. It's before Christmas 2007 and I take out the rising pressure fuel regulator in my engine bay to check it. It checks out so I put it back in and retighten the fuel hoses. I am also aware that I need to replace my alternator when my wife and I return from our Christmas vacation. It doesn't seem to be charging right. No worries it is a lifetime warranty deal from Autozone. So we fly out for our vacation and come back ten days later. My vehicle has been sitting this long in the garage. I pull the car out of the garage and notice that there are two puddles beneath the vehicle. One is oil (big surprise) and one is...a clear liquid that looks like gasoline. I lean over the engine bay and see gas shooting out from a gas line leading into my rising pressure fuel regulator. I say a quick "oh s*** " and run to shut the engine off. Just as I shut it off there is a loud "POP" from the engine bay and flames suddenly dance up the battery side of the engine. I have absolutely no time to think, I just run to the twenty pound ABC extinguisher that came with me from an apartment move and smother that mother. Some electrical lines were fried and the gas lines were about four seconds from burning through but no permanent damage. It started from a defective pole on the alternator which was shorting and glowing red. I do my auto work right outside my garage which is attached to our condo and the whole edifice is wood. The whole buliding would have gone up in seconds. Crisis averted. I carry a twenty pound ABC rechargeable fire extinguisher in my vehicle at all times. Those little ones you buy at the parts store to mount in your vehicle and look all pretty are mostly useless. I say mostly because they work but you never know when the propellant is going to quit and render the whole thing functionless. Safety first. Absolutely Godd*** right...

Once I removed all the fussy detailing on my s-30, the lines really popped out. It looks like on the s-130 there is alot more to remove, fill, fab. etc... It looks like you are headed in the right direction with your concept. Any larger pictures??

What a funny picture with the kid on the motor!

There are some who say that Nissan took the design for the s-30 and ruined it in the s-130. Could this be an example of that????

I had an accident once about 15 years back in CA and like you I had no insurance. My license was suspended until I could show proof of financial responsibility.(sr-22 form). It took years for me to learn to maintain it at all costs because it's just not worth driving without...

That's gonna look cool. Keep us posted!!!

The locking mechanism? I don't have one of those...

Yes, Paypal is the only way to go. For the rear door latch do you just need the part on the vehicle or the locking part in the door?

It's cool the whole thing has kind of collapsed anyway and the original topic is moot...

I'm not talking about breaking the law...

I have your regulator, arm rests and door latch...

I'll be looking forward to that swap, are you going to turbo it or get it to run on biodiesel?

Exactly, but he was right about stating that there are various ways to walk around the law...

I am rectifying this problem as we speak...

Those look cool. They also make an orange one for those wanting to duplicate JDM.

I'm following your head build, looks like fun...

I think I am sounding deliberately vague on this subject so I'll cut to the chase without cutting too obviously!!! Let's say one has a 76-78 s-30 280z in the state of California and one has always abided by the smog testing procedure both out the tailpipe and visually under the hood. By some miracle if one no longer had to worry about passing the smog testing every two years, where would be a good place to start; a: deleting various underhood hardware that is not vitally necessary for optimal engine performance but it would look better without... b: adding performance increasing hardware with the caveat that +performance = -MPG. For sake of discussion let us say that one already has the big conical air filter and headers as well. I think this clarifies...