socorob

I didn't weigh them but they felt about 50% heavier than the 2002 miata seats I had when picking them up back to back.

My friend had non power 944 seats in his bug and those things weighed a ton.

To those who have installed the vintage air system, how does the mini seem to keep the car cool at idle?

I used 2 blocks to do the whole inside of the car. I also used the dremel max tool that vibrates back and forth with a scraper blade. Took it right off. The 2 blocks lasted long enough to do the whole inside of the car in mid to high 90 degree weather with about the same humidity. If I had to do it again I would get enough dry ice to cover 1/2 the car. Then you could knock it out in no time. Also may be able to do the underside of the pan at the same time. My car had surface rust under some of the original tar so I'm glad I removed it when I did.

You may need to get crush washers to go with those also.

Dry ice.

Looks like your work is cut out for you.

I meant to type oil pressure sender. Sorry about that. I drilled out the gm pressure sender. I'm having a problem with the alternator bracket idler relocation adapter. It's too small for the idler pulley and napa says its an odd size and they can't get a bearing that size. I guess it was machined wrong from JCI. I will have to wait until they reopen after the holidays to see if I can get a proper sized replacement. Also not very impressed with the Chinese AC compressor. I really hope a sanden will bolt in the same place with the same fittings if this one fails.

Got me a big wiring diagram and started on wiring and combining harnesses. I'm really thinking about going with vintage air and ditching the datsun stuff. Found out JTR headers hit JCI oil temp sender placement so I put the stock plate back on and removed the LS1 oil pressure sensor from behind the intake, drilled it out with 21/64 bit and tapped it with a 1/8 NPT pipe thread. Used a 45 degree adapter from the GM plug to Datsun sending unit. Anyone using this combo should definitely do this BEFORE the engine is in the car. It was almost impossible to tighten the 45 fitting so its pointed where it needs to be with the engine in the car.

Merry Christmas Everyone!

You will have to roll your own. If packaging isn't an issue I would do a satchell link so you get the best handling as possible with a straight axle. I think that setup was the last competitive straight axle setup in factory backed racing and was used by jaguar, but that was in the 60s. They had to go to IRS to stay competitive in road racing so they stopped using that.

How does it perform in comparison to the factory Datsun AC?

Is there any extra room around it? The next size one up is only about an inch bigger each direction. You think that one would fit?

http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/hurricane-ac-systems/universal-hurricane-systems-cable-operated-c-1_32000000_120131979_120131981.html?osCsid=6758e9770cc6fa70a1142900bad1a530 The more look at it, the more I would like to go with something like this. With these aftermarket units, at least you get to choose what kind of air goes where. I already have the bracket, the compressor, the dryer, and a few hoses that are new. I'm just not sure if one of these units would fit. I have not put my dash yet to see if it would fit in the same spot the original used. Also I need to see if any of the control panels would fit where the stock the one was and if I could make it look proper.

Does anyone know if the water flows through the vacuum type valve on the 78 280 when vacuum is applied or when there is no vacuum? I have a GTO valve that is vacuum operated and mounts under the hood, so I would like to use that if it works in the same way with vacuum applied.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150797626440?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Are you talking about this guy? He also sells modern style condensers. I need to pull my dash soon so i was thinking to replace this and the heater core so I wouldn't have to go back in there for hopefully a long time.

http://www.lsxtv.com/features/pri-coverage/pri-2013-a-new-strange-aluminum-rearend-for-5th-gen-camaros/

Yeah I think they are more concerned about you catapulting yourself. I saw truck break the front u joint at a sand drag when I was a kid and it almost went back over front when the driveshaft speared into the ground. I had the same problem with the water temp sender I saw a few other people had in some old posts where the sending unit wouldn't fit into the JCI adapter. I just centered it up in a drill press and used a 9/16 bit to drill it down. I stopped about 1/8 from going all the way through to leave a lip for the wider part of the sending unit to contact/ seal against. I put a little WOG on the threads just to be sure it doesn't leak

I'm shooting for February to get mine started. Will still need a lot of little things before it's drivable. It will probably be getting hot by the time it's complete so working AC is going to be a must, especially if I want to keep the wife happy.

Thanks, that's kinda what i thought. I have the new compressor and drier from JCI with a few of the hoses. I like the hot rod AC units but really don't want to have to change the switches out in the interior. I'm trying to keep that part of the car as stock as possible. I have all the components but am not too excited about having to put all that mess back in the engine bay. would I just get rid of the wire/hoses or whatever else went to the fast idle FICD thing?

I have the JCI kit to put AC in the Datsun. My question is: Can the vacuum bottle be removed from the AC system and the magnet valve that makes the L6 idle up when the AC is on? Does the LS with a stock cam pull enough vacuum so te tank is not needed to operate the doors in the AC system? It looks like my tank isn't going to fit back where it was, so trying to get some ideas on how others went about putting AC.

Is there a picture of your safety loop somewhere on here? I would love to see how its done on the Z.

I received my driveshaft from JCI yesterday so realized I couldn't put off dealing with the e brake hook up any longer. I have a combo of Z32 and Q45 brakes in the rear. The easiest thing I decided was to bolt a piece of angle to the brake cable mountings and bolt the Q45 cables to that. Then I had to make some sort of bracket using pieces from the Z and Q45 welded to a piece of flat bar. I probably could have made something a little prettier but it was a rainy day and I only had a few hours that I was able to squeeze in so I decided to do it with what I just had laying around.

I used both the heat and sound. I painted the bottom of my car with rust shield and ended up having to scuff every inch of it. If i had it to do over I would use epoxy primer with the luzard skin over it. i have no personal experience with it but know some hot rod guys who said it made huge differences on sound and heat in their cars. If you do both under and totally inside the car it seems like it would only gain about 30 pounds of weight, its fairly light.

He'd be more fun to watch though as he owns his own railroad. He has a short track that ties in with the main lines and he periodically takes his private train on a run. So does that make him a double engineer?