socorob

I picked up all 3 of the hoses listed above. If I get a chance tomorrow I will try to see how they fit. I will post back here as soon as I do.

Everytime I use my iPhone to put a picture on here it turns it around. It's straight up in the upload preview. Anyone know how to stop that?

Today I was able to make some decent progress after not touching the car all week. I put the 300zx hubs with longer studs on with Toyota calipers, hawk pads and slotted rotors. To use these hubs you need the spacer for the rotor. I used 86 hubs and slotted rotors. I used 300zx outer bearings, 280z inner bearings and 300zx wheel seals. I also drilled all the spot welds out of the slam panel on the hatch and removed it and did a small rust patch under it. Tomorrow I'll try to put the new one in. I think I will try to use body panel glue on it since its not structural and I think that will help keep water from being able to get under it again. Next I'm thinking about cleaning up the inside and using the rest of the lizard skin on it.

Where do you find really wide good tires? In the direzzas or rivals I can only find a 255. Depending on how wide a wheel you run, it will end up being an inch or less wider(10mm) than the 245s. I would like a 275-285 on the back but cant seem to find them in the grippier tires.

What rear flares and size wheels are you running? I'm trying to find flares that are long like those to reach the bottom of the car with 17s. Thanks.

http://www.youtube.com/user/europeansportsimport/videos This guy put one in a Sunbeam in a RWD configuration. Maybe he could offer you some advice.

Harrington ones are made in Vietnam from Stainless. I talked to someone who bought some for a British car, and he said from the back side it looks like they may have been hand pounded, but he said the outside was polished almost like a mirror. They were triple the price of these, so I seriously doubt that is who makes these.

I second the dome light. Those lenses are hard to find.

Check all underneath for rust. If the areas he says are rusted up high, I would think the areas under may be more rusted than he may realize. Rust is the killer in these cars, and you're right, they never come up for sale around here. I had to drive to Texas to get mine and it wasn't rust free as the owner thought. She took a lot off the price though, because she honestly had no idea. I don't know if there are usual areas of rust on these. All the ones I see in the junkyards all seem to be rusted badly in totally different places... unless the usual area for rust happens to be the body. Definitely check the floor pans, frame rails from the front of the cars all the way back, the frame horns where the hood connects, spare tire well, well pretty much spend a lot of time under it. From what he says is rusted I imagine there is more. From the description I personally wouldn't go anymore than 2K and that's if everything else is perfect besides what he mentioned. Rust is a lot of work to deal with. Mine was minimally rusted and I spent more time on sheetmetal than I ever cared to. Welding patch panels sucks. I gutted my interior and I'm thinking about putting a classic auto air street rod cooler III or maybe a vintage air gen II compac in place of the stock AC while everything is out. AC is a must here.

Congratulations. I can't wait to just be able to start mine much less drive it.

I greased those bearings on my Z although it hasn't ran yet and my last car. They were on there a few years with no problems. It made adjusting them with the $5 wrench from my local speedshop like nothing with the car on the groundt. If you have a local speedshop that caters to circle or dirt track they may have them there.

The more I look at that car, the more I like the spoilers and flares a single color. Does anyone know what flares those are? Maybe the Marugens?

a 280 strut insulator would raise it about an inch.

I was in the pullapart in mobile Al today and they have a 944. i thunk seats are $28 each there but they would need ti be upholstered.

I didn't weigh them but they felt about 50% heavier than the 2002 miata seats I had when picking them up back to back.

My friend had non power 944 seats in his bug and those things weighed a ton.

To those who have installed the vintage air system, how does the mini seem to keep the car cool at idle?

I used 2 blocks to do the whole inside of the car. I also used the dremel max tool that vibrates back and forth with a scraper blade. Took it right off. The 2 blocks lasted long enough to do the whole inside of the car in mid to high 90 degree weather with about the same humidity. If I had to do it again I would get enough dry ice to cover 1/2 the car. Then you could knock it out in no time. Also may be able to do the underside of the pan at the same time. My car had surface rust under some of the original tar so I'm glad I removed it when I did.

You may need to get crush washers to go with those also.

Dry ice.

Looks like your work is cut out for you.

I meant to type oil pressure sender. Sorry about that. I drilled out the gm pressure sender. I'm having a problem with the alternator bracket idler relocation adapter. It's too small for the idler pulley and napa says its an odd size and they can't get a bearing that size. I guess it was machined wrong from JCI. I will have to wait until they reopen after the holidays to see if I can get a proper sized replacement. Also not very impressed with the Chinese AC compressor. I really hope a sanden will bolt in the same place with the same fittings if this one fails.

Got me a big wiring diagram and started on wiring and combining harnesses. I'm really thinking about going with vintage air and ditching the datsun stuff. Found out JTR headers hit JCI oil temp sender placement so I put the stock plate back on and removed the LS1 oil pressure sensor from behind the intake, drilled it out with 21/64 bit and tapped it with a 1/8 NPT pipe thread. Used a 45 degree adapter from the GM plug to Datsun sending unit. Anyone using this combo should definitely do this BEFORE the engine is in the car. It was almost impossible to tighten the 45 fitting so its pointed where it needs to be with the engine in the car.

Merry Christmas Everyone!

You will have to roll your own. If packaging isn't an issue I would do a satchell link so you get the best handling as possible with a straight axle. I think that setup was the last competitive straight axle setup in factory backed racing and was used by jaguar, but that was in the 60s. They had to go to IRS to stay competitive in road racing so they stopped using that.