socorob

My coworker got an engine shipped to him several years ago by Forward Air. They are actually a trucking company that ships from airport to airport. The engine would have to be dropped off at their location and then picked up from their location at the destination. He said it was cheapest by a lot if you were able to drop it off and pick it up.

Thanks. That's what I was thinking but wasn't sure if I was thinking correctly or not.

Forgot the picture.

Someone gave me a swt of Infiniti 5 spoke wheels with 245/45-17s on them. They fit inside the rear fenders with TTT suspension, but haven't had an alignment yet so I don't know what will change once it's aligned. they do fit between the coilover and fender though.

The problem is the Z ones is so narrow. With most mirrors from other cars you won't be able to put down the visors. It was hard to find one that just fit between the visors, much less with a similar mount.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113819-tired-of-crumbly-rear-view-mirror-not-superstitious-mirror-swap-concept/ This is what I did and its not too hard. My friend did it recently also.

Do you have any pictures of the jdmflares ones installed?

Also a freshly blasted car will rust quickly. You can treat the bare metal with Ospho or something similar and it will hold bare metal for a short time from rusting. At least down here it will where we have high humidity pretty much all the time. If you do leave it bare, make sure it stays inside with a car cover on it as much as possible to keep it dry as possible.

Both mine and my friends Z's, both 78s had bubbly sound deadening on the tunnel. I let mine idle for a very long time in my driveway and saw it start bubbling. I grabbed a putty knife and that area scraped right off while it was hot. Right under the area is where the resonator was.

epoxy prime the whole thing and then sand off areas you need to weld. Epoxy primer will hold it from rusting for a while and sticks better to bare metal.

Many years ago I used a -4 an flex lines at my wheels for the brakes because I didn't know any better. When I swapped them out to -3, it shortened up my brake pedal throw by a very noticeable amount. I guess it took more fluid in the larger lines to move the pistons the same amount of distance.

What rear lower control arms do you have? The TTT ones allow you to move the wheel back in the well so its more centered. I think I was able to move mine maybe 1/2" back. i think Sunny had his custom made ao his is further back, so yours wont be able to look exactly like his.

Keep the comments about Capri pants to a minimum.

I used the s12w with 86 5 lug hubs, rotors and spacers. I think the 86 rotor is slightly thicker. hawk pads were too thick to use, I had to get regular pads from o'advancedzone so the caliper would fit over the rotor.

Do you have to drill and tap it to get it to fit on the t56 handle?

Maybe body panel glue?

http://www.xenons30.com/files/DatsunZ_Vintage_Air_1000.pdf This is what made me choose the compac. It has a little larger fan but the rest of the components are the same as the mini.

I second the ABS glue. I built a whole console out of a sheet of ABS plastic and used the ABS pipe glue I bought at the hardware store. The stuff fuses the plastic together like it was one piece.

No, I ended up selling the car before I got around to putting a fuel cell in it.

There was a convertible one at the barrys upullit in Theodore,Alabama about 2 weeks ago. Didn't think about looking at the brakes. I always try to get emblems off cool cars for my tool cabinet when I see them, but they were already all taken.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/aerofuelcaps.php http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Billet-Pop-Up-Gas-Cap,50662.html http://www.ridetech.com/store/coolcap-stainless-steel-gas-cap.html http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/aero-300-6-bolt-flange-with-stepped-neck-58--52mm-670--capa36nsl-1223-p.asp http://www.eddiemotorsports.com/store/product-category/exterior-parts/universal-gas-fills/ http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/search?___SID=U&o=Fuel_Safe_Aircraft_Style_Flush_Fuel_Caps&q=Fuel+Safe+Aircraft+Style+Flush+Fuel+Caps http://www.aircraftpartsmart.com/newton_fuel_caps.htm I was looking for some a few years back, and still had these in my bookmarks. Places that sell kit cars also have some cool ones too.

A good way is to remove your spring, mount your largest tire, put it at full compression and give yourself something like an inch around the circumference of the tire. You may not be able to copy anyones exactly because if they have adjustable rear suspension their tire may be more or less centered in the wheel well than yours. When you get the first side cut, tape a large sheet of paper over the rear fender, trace the body lines and fender opening onto it, cut it out on those lines, tape it on the other side of the car and you will have the opening in the exact same place.

Is it the drum you can't get off? They tend to fuse to the hub since its dissimilar metal. Soak it in penetrating oil a lot. You may have to apply some heat too. I was able to coax it all apart with a BFH and a big punch after a lot of soaking.

Last weekend and today was cleaning the interior out and priming. Next is seam sealing and lizard skin.

http://www.onehotlap.com/2013/01/bfgoodrich-g-force-rival-plot-thickens.html?m=1 I've been yahooing around all morning and this was all I could find on this so far.