socorob

If there is a sabic plastic in your area you could try buying a sheet of 1/16 ABS plastic. That's what I'm planning to do once I get to that point in my build. It's easily shaped with a heat gun.

http://www.mrtruck.net/Model%203110%20Power%20Lift%20trailer.jpg I saw something like this on a foreign car show. It was low, light, aluminum and they were towing it behind a station wagon.

Definitely reverse the color scheme, as the gulf cars were.

Does the engine sit lower with the hawk mounts? I can't tell if it does or if its the angle of the pictures because the headers look low.

Isn't that what the IDX is supposed to be?

That's why I said COULD. There is a lot to take into consideration.

If you put it too low it could compress your spine in an accident, so keep that in mind.

Ha I wish I had time to do something like that. I need to put the hammer down and get this thing running.

Today was installing a vintage air gen II compac into the 1978 Datsun 280z. It's a tight fit but I managed to get it to fit without interfering with anything on the dash. To do that I had to install it slightly off center towards the drivers side, maybe 1", and when viewed from above the drivers side is about 1/2" or so more forward that the passenger side. Brackets weren't too bad to figure out. What sucked was climbing in and out of the car dozens of times to cut, measure, bend.....

When I right click after copying a youtube link, it never gives me the option to paste. Maybe it's a firefox issue with mine? The old keyboard paste ctrl+v will work just about with anything anywhere though. I haven't tried with internet explorer to see if it lets me right click and paste yet.

Under the video on youtube click on share, then highlight that url and right click and copy. bring it here and paste into this window using ctrl+v on the keyboard to paste. Like this.

There was a sport model chevette overseas.

On some new cars you're not supposed to remove the radiator cap. All filling is done with the reservoir. My Titan has a similar setup. On my Sunbeam the radiator cap was lower than the other end of the hose where it went into the top of the engine. I used to have to fill it by using the radiator hose. Remove the hose from the top of the radiator, fill radiator to that hole, then use the hose to fill the engine. Fill hose all the way and put it onto radiator as fast as you can to keep as much water in the system as possible.

Usually if it works at speed it is an airflow issue. Above about 25mph or so, more air is being forced in then most fans will ever be able to pull, that's why a pusher fan usually is less efficient, it blocks the natural airflow making it to the radiator when you start moving. OEMs use pullers for that reason. If it got better with the pusher, could the pusher fan be rated for much higher cfm than the original puller was? That may explain why it helped some, not the fact that it is pushing the air, but the fact that it is moving more air than before. Could also be a thermostat issue.

You could use something like the techno toys kit, which is expensive, but it will let you use that diff , 300 axles and the whole 300z rear brake setup.

Doors won't interchange either, they had small changes through the years. The front valences changed also. I believe hatch,hood,fenders, and inspection lids may all be interchangable. Taillight panels are different.

My post was sarcastic. I think if someone asks a question to either answer it or not put anything at all. If someone can take the time to put that stuff then they have the time to put an answer or a link. I see your point on individual topics but I also like to follow interesting build threads. I don't know how many people would update their build thread with whatever project they're working on and then start a separate thread with the one aspect of it pulled out. It would make it easier to find though. The best way to search for something is use google's advanced forum search or enter the search manually in this format for anyone who may not know: whatever you want to search for site:hybridz.org

Didnt the turbo have a clutch LSD?

I have the motivational pictures on my phone. Down with the man!

I think this has been discussed 8654678755 times before on here so if you used the search function you would have found your answer. google is your friend after all. That being said is the reason why I think it's slow. I get about as much on PMs as I do on the forum. Forums are supposed to get things out in the open to be talked about.If everyone just searched and PMed like most people on here would like, |I'm sure it would wither away quickly. instead of the policy being don't ever discuss anything that has been discussed before, maybe it should be something more along the lines of no spoon feeding. There's been a few times that I started a post and just deleted it because I didn't want to rattle the search knobs' cages. i thought everyone here was here because we like talking Z's.

All I've seen was the gulf coast club and it looks like mainly newer Zs but I see 3 S30s driving around town every now and then, 1 has been parked in front of a mechanics shop for a few years now and the guy won't talk to anyone about selling it, and I know of 2 more people building them up right now. I can never flag down anyone to talk to them though. My friend has one and there is a guy with a street legal drag one. So that's almost 10 just in my general vicinity on the northshore.

The knob I posted is just a reverse lockout button for an automatic, not a switch. That LG knob may be a happy medium since the button doesn't jump out at you.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/SK-6920/10002/-1 Anyone know of a shift knob with a smooth button but that is an electrical button for the T56? Something that looks like the one in the link, I would prefer not to have an ugly button sticking out of the top of the shifter. I want to use it for the reverse lockout since I have read of a lot of people destroying the plastic bushing in their T56 by just powering through the lockout. I want to avoid that, but don't want to have any extra switches to turn on or off, or have to use a brake pedal switch where it comes on all the time.

Yeah my friend went through that here with an old VW bus. Took him about 4-5 months and several trips to DMV.

There are also some grey area title places in 2 or 3 states that have no titles or didn't use titles before a certain year. The closest state to us that works that was Alabama. It's been a few years so I don't know if those places still exist or not. I know it worked for cars with no titles, but not sure how it works with bonding. Basically you sell them the car (paperwork only) and they just need a bill of sale or something along those lines, then they sell it back to you for what you sold it to them for plus their fee. Then you can register it here since that state didn't require a title. I think Maine was another state that worked like that. I seen it on some British car forums. People would find old MGs or whatever in barns, etc., and no one cared about those cars back in the day so the titles were long gone. They would use those sort of places to get the car titled quickly. Some states didn't have titles before certain years so the car would have to be made before that year to be able for it to work. http://www.broadwaytitle.com/