frank280zx

great nice to see a clean Eurospec ( or better UK spec) car!! or isnt it , given the speedometer goes up past 180

Well it is getting together i seam welded the rear sub frame and trailing arms.. swapped the bushings for poly ones .. and test fitted my 17" 10 J not a bad lip! and from testing it seems to work out fine here is a picture of the rim with arm attached and a brake disk in between, it space it clear of the arm. Sofar they only thing that can go wrong is the filler neck as far as i can tell, but that would be a sign i have to get a fuel cell sooner than i wanted My OBX HLSD is all done aswel. I plan on using a MSA sway bar kit with end links. this way i have minimum rubber and polyurethane. Next week 300zx cv axles and bolting up the rear sub frame so it is ready to be swapped on the car

my new view not to bad slowly getting there .. cage needs finishing, belts need to get mounted, the steering wheel needs to be changed out for a sparco etc etc ... however getting there maybe not the best pic.. made to show a friend my cage progress sofar

look in my sig i used another zx and cut of the rear and flipped it !!

Well today i finished the rear hubs it is a direct swap you need to run the z31 cv's though. Good part is that apart from the hubs being a direct swap, so are the bearings, brake disk ( 88 vented) and calipers!! Get this NO fabbing!! this information i found in the archives and found very helpfull, i remeasured this and it is correct information: Note that because the Z31 stub axle is tapered, use the Z31 'B' piece (bearing spacer) as the Z31 'B' spacer is the same length (55.95mm) as the ZX 'M' spacer. If your 280ZX rear lower control arm housing needs the “N” length spacer (55.85mm) use the corresponding Z31 “A” spacer and if you require the “P” length spacer (56.05mm) use the corresponding Z31 “C” spacer. This opens up a lot of possibilities for 280ZX applications as the Z31 stub axle came in three different varieties: a four-lug hub, a five-lug hub and a five-lug hub that used a vented rotor (which has a thicker wheel mounting flange). Utilizing either the turbo or the non-turbo Z31 companion flange you can use either the ZX CV axles (3 bearing joint) or the stronger Z31 turbo CV axles (with the 5 bearing joint). Strange but I noticed that the diameter of the ZX stub axle is actually smaller (30mm vs. 32mm) than the first generation 1970-78 Z cars. The Z31 stub axle starts out at a 30mm diameter but then it tapers out to a diameter of 35mm where the wheel flange is. Nice upgrade. ( you need to run a brake line from a zx the z31 is to short to reach the hard line) As i widened my track in the front ( read why below) . The 16" 8j rims in are now still 40MM to the fender i will use a 30MM spacer in the rear to let it fill out the fenders. and to widen the track there. What i did is lengthen my 'control' arm with 30MM this is enough to get camber control without your car camber plates being maxed out to either side. with a stock arm you do not get enough camber. Given if i would put allot of miles on her i would go for 25MM. So yeah these parts, two 25 or 30 MM spacers. camber plates, lowering springs (or coilovers) and 30 mm extension of the Control arm arm.

they need tweeking anyhow.. i had one and decided to sell it jeez they are very poor quality FG

I got them and posted about them on zdriver http://zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21765 anyhow this is what i found; Well i did the test but left my camera in the shop! so pics will follow Like i suspected .. these are bright .. but 100 w will do that. The lens of the projector is a glass lens and has the same affect on the light pattern as my other two 'real' projectors' I have a maxima set and a BMW set i used for comparison, next to that a conventional set of h4 lenses The only modification that has to be made is a metal plat that roughly runs like this: ............._____ ________/ That blocs upper part of the lens to cut the light from seeding everywhere, this is what all 'real' projectors do have .. and it shows in the beam pattern. I do have another worry, witch is the fact that the 'diamond' cut housing is plastic ... and 100 watts is allot .. so it would not surprise me if these units would melt, however i need to do some more testing. HID in plastic is a def no go i would suspect. I will cut a piece of soda can in the the above seen shape and will stick it in there for another test and post the results .. One thing we can state that without modification i'm very interested in what the upcoming traffic will think of you So if with a small mod i can get half a decent beam pattern this might be a good cheap alternative.. but for real lighting use a real h4 lens! even the 'real' projectors don't give a nice cut pattern like real deal. Also they would be great for driving lights ( elanore style) when you have a bumper less s30 So sorry for the hold up with the pics so basically they suck without some modding

Well actually it does fit the BRE and whale tail fit with NO modification, apart from ecstatics , in case of the whale tail and BRE spoiler the hatch lock hole .. For a 2+2 a coupe might fit but a 2+2 from my recollection's it needs some trimming .. however one a coupe there are no fitment issues what so ever

damn you are ahead of me as you did the fabbing part mostly! But i have all the goodies ready so it is a matter of time to make it happen. If it will work is a second question, and if it will deliver more HP is another .. but fiscally it will exist MOWAHAHA thanks for your help sofar.. are you thinking of twincharging ? Anyhow i have the same charger and noticed the mounting bracket being an issue, so i wondered what you did to work around that. On the other had would not putting the charger on its side deliver more room ?? mounting would be a pain, but it might make accesing plugs easier. ( i have no PS) on the other hand it will not clear the oil pressure sender or filter i take. Anyhow you have the proven way it works .. so that will be a good base set up to work off, thanks again for sharing Hope to be twincharging this summer !!

looking amazing, I like the blue and black on the charger .. it makes it stand out. your fabrication in a previous thread have made me to pick up my twin charger project again ! Anyhow what is yours of a Pontiac aswel ? i started drawing and fiddling with a bracket but it is very tight between the engine and strut tower.. or did you tilt your engine ?

Behind the spare well cover on the strut housing you will see a black box, disconnect the plug .. that is your 'talking' lady.

Looking Great sofar .. man there is allot of wiring in a twin !!!! It always gives you a good feeling seeing stuff like this evolve. Are you going to use the car without a helmet aswel ? if so i would rake the main hoop back a bit more, as i visualize it the seats being under there and so your head is under the cage .. witch make it a utility probably causing harm apart from safety. ( or at least a good bump on the head when you are not fully strapped) i might be wrong given the locating of the belt in the door .. but then length comes in to play aswel i guess.. Is it my imagination or is the main hoop welded together from more than one part? i would not want that either. See the rake in my main hoop, i had it bent by my friend shop, but did the welding myself .. so no pro job, but for reference what i mean Next to that how will you keep the tops functional? i have thought about this but never really had the answer apart from moving them inward or outward.. both don't have my preference. very curious what you have come up with .. def something more people here will have issues with. Well don't get me wrong im not a pro cage builder, but my friend is, and i did pay loads of attention there. just my 02 cents worth, not trying to put you down, but now you can still ask him to make changes.

imagine turboeing that !!!

Yup it hardly helps performance, however if you do this hide a HUGE strut bar under it. I could do it to hide my cage haha Amps and all that stuff i don't care about as it distracts from driving, well and i want to hear my engine. but to each there own. Problem with these sorts of things that they always in the end look home made. i like the general design though! so i hope your good with fiberglass!

BMW 325 cpe or something alike ..

Why is a semi-trailing arm so bad? as sqaud would improve grip or not ? In my car i have the solid mounting busings, nylon struts bushings with a set of adjustable konis on a 175 Springfield.. my squad is not that bad, and actually it helps me get trough a corner faster as it plants the ass in on my slicks... The site 260zed pointed out is in my bookmarks, as e30's over here are over competitive .. The set up to control camber is relatively complex and expensive. Moving the degree of the sweep angle (angle of the rear sub-frame compared to straight. In a s130 this comes down to ~14 degrees as far as i recollect to the Say between 10 and 12 degree sweep angle ( As the M3 group a and B cars had) is that the rear suspension will have less camber and toe change as the suspension travels. To be honest i like trailing arms better than a arms.. probably since i' m used to them from driving e30's and a souped up 914 powered bug and naturally my z's they are more stable in corners for my taste ( or better more predictable for me) More so than my experiences in s30's ( this maybe tells more about those s30's haha) To quote the site 260zed pointed out ' But also note that this is not necessarily desirable. You do want some gain in negative camber as the suspension compresses to compensate for chassis roll in cornering. It would be nice if it did not change during acceleration and braking but that is tough to achieve. Some small amount of toe-in as the outside rear wheel compresses in cornering is also nice, as it adds a bit of rear-end stability.' Witch is exactly what my friend and rally race car builder explained to me. So now im curious how squad hurts launching?? I can think of the camber changes thus using less of the tires width, but would drag radials and indeed some stiffer springs not solve this? And doesn't the squad press down the tires into the asphalt more than say a A arm or solid ?

Junkyard is your best bet .. you have to take the whole head as they are crossed drilled, or take the towers and cam as a set at least .. also take the rocker arms and lash pads and mark them as sets. It is not Vital in my book but better!

hmm is it a full 1/4 course ? maybe you guys are right is 210 not a bit fast for a 1/4th track ? Ooh crap i should not stick my nose in dragging and keep taking corners haha i now zipp about it.. However in auzie they do have KM's an 338 is FAST .. in a 1/4th !! ..

there are no bearings in an L cam, it means you need new cam towers

uhm downunder they do km's not miles so it is closer to 120

Probably a laurel or l20 style of some sort of manifold they run front sump for a reason on those.. apart from that i don't think there will be a great performance difference