frank280zx

Parafon is the name for that thingy near the windshield I dont know why you would like to convert , but olie05 covered the difficulties. futher a ZX has MUCH better aereodynamics, Im actually fixing up a open mouth zx like early z's, by removing the bumber and molding the airdam etc. Check my site, i have ideas, but have not really come that far, but it wont be long. I will also fabricate an OEM z front grill out of 2/3 s30 grills to fit my front end. well good luck!

Before you start running it, get a gauge, and you will need to upgrade the fuel system, but i think you know that... I just did not read that from the post, so just as a heads up!

He Fred, you might want to try to call Paul Stokhof, he used to deal with this people personnaly, and is a turbo freak, he might be able to send you an original copy, send me a PM and i can give you his contact information! I really like to see your z in person!! Sean is visiting me in week 49 if you need anything send him a list ! Frank

Lot of Turbo gains to be gotten from that Downpipe

He fred the intake is on its way.. however ... i would not feedback to the oil cooler since i think the engine vacuum does something to teh oilreturn aswel.

hehe nope need to finsih of this last report but im in teh library with my laptop, the inet is tempting

VIVA LA FRANCE !!!! on a American board haha did you not used to live in teh states and so did your wife... haha 8) call me BOND james Bond

It is me Frank !!! haha small world ha... From what i heard the Prez. of BEA went down with his plain in teh late 80's but i havent heard much since, they used rayjay right ?

I actually have seen it done to z31 before ( google external wastgate on l28, and you get a page on z31 i think) It would work why not it is just a pressurized zone on both sides ( backpressurewhise ) http://www.z31.com/wastegate/ http://www.z31.com/wastegate/xover.jpg

you might want to check down this page, there is an whole issue about this subject. However with a good headgasket, APR bolts ( to be sure) and a good IC i would not foresee to much trouble, given you get the rest of the sytem stable ( fuel delivery, engine management) I would really advice to get a good pump and Injectors, a good Boost Gauge since the OEM part is not accurate in general consensus and a stand alone like MEgasquirt, this since boost is addictive, and you really will crave for more, anyway with a good controlled tuned engine you get peace of mind, and better milage !! I would not worry about the compression, you just run less boost ... so smaller Turbo, here you save the money

Hi man i Dont konow your Budget, but i know that for instance in GB they did not get the Turbo so they got A Jansspped kit that uses the stock NA heads, dont ask me details cause i dont have them. I talked to a guy who ran a turbo on a n42 and he had some problems with Pinging, but he bought a stand alone fuel system (haltech) But I would leave the stock bottomend alone, and actually i would hope you have Flat top tops,(this comes normally with the P79 right) Thisway you do not have as much lag, and you wont have to upgrade te turbo(depeding on what you want but 200 is a walk in the park!), This will give you a much wider flatter powerband, You would need an IC though, and i would get something good for that ( not a saab 9000 unit) but there is plenty written on that on this Forum, and the general idea in avaialabilty/prize/function in the US would be the NPR unit. I have heard several stories on people in Europe running Flat Top p90 combos ( stock NA set up here ) even a guy on this Board (xander) is thinking of it, and Pallnet runs a high compression combo, and some other people i know. If it wasnt for the fact that i have a perfect Turbo engine in my car i would do it (in fact i have a flat top P90 combo waiting on shelf) This is much more a modern aproach to Turbocharging So i would say: Grab the manifold and the Turbo, get a Turbo head(p90/p90a), The Dizzy. Leave the ECU and get Megasquirt ( read post below) get 370cc injectors, an good headgasket You will need to build a 3" downpipe (preferred) since the stock unit is very resrictive. One note though you really want to think gearbox and clutch since a turbo is much stronger this is why the early models came with AT only ...the stock gearboxers are not well matched! Also with a flat top you will have more torwque so you need a better clucth probably. though at 200 rwhp ...

anybody ever fitted a 300zx TT (z32) clutch to a BW s130? i just wonder since the seem to look simmilar in a way ( maybe using the 300zx flywheel ?? just a though ...

Yes that manifold would bolt straight on is it yours? any news on the cylinder head? , cause that is more or less the key. it is a pitty but you do not have that really cool take apart manifold i would trade it for some turbo godies in a heartbeat!! However i think with stock l28 ET injectors you would be fine if you would like to make lets say 200 hp however i still advize a stand alone like megasquirt ( mentioned and discussed in the stickys at the top of this board) You might need a bigger AFM too i think there is a distiction between the l20e and ET ones ( not sure here though anybody?), however Megasquirt tackles that too, and makes your life easier concerning fuel managment and tuning. stock internals in a l28ET according to the stickys are good and stable upto 350 rwhp, however is discussed regulary ( do a search on this and you will see) people have way more and still dont see problems other dont even make the benchmark. Since the l20E is the same engine as the l28E just diffrently bored we need the head and compression ratio before we can make assumptions

the L20e motor,exactly the same as the L28E but has a 3mm bore decrease and different stroke than the L28. so the cranck is the same as one of a l28E/ ET Does your Motor have a P65 intake manifold? It has a front cover that bolts on and long runners Take a look: the runners curve around the outside of the plenum, and enter from the outer edge of the plenum, not the portion next to the head This manifold is assumed to work on an L28, but according to TonyD will absolutely fall flat on it's face flow wise around 5500rpm. This is actually really nice and im looking for one to fiddle with. The Fairlady Z normally would have conventional manifold like the ' shor' t runner the P82 / N42 style on the right., but the ZX Fairlady did have the dual throttle plate setup in some cases .. Mine sadly did NOT . It really kills throttle response but returns phenomenal gas mileage this shows when you read specs on l20e powerd ZX's ( still bumbed mine did not get that manifold !!) I don't think the states ever got a manifold like the one on the left. I have seen em on zx's but im affriad they came out of the Skylines however you do probably have a 4.37 diff wich also creates possibillitys with a conventional gearbox. Where are you located? Anyway another guy with a l28 who wanted to turbo it who lived in New Zeeland wrapped up this: l20et exhaust manifold r32 gts-t skyline t3 turbo and dump pipe intercooler (starion) and piping to suit l20et 2 T-peices for oil lines, and 2 for water pipes, to suit l20et l20et ECU and AFM so this is available This would give you possibilties Note you only have a believe 170cc injectors, and you need to upgrade i would advise a stand alone fuel managment, like the megasquirt! Let me know what head and where your are and hope somebody stops in that knows more. normal L20ET 's have about 145 HP like the stock l28 but there would be more to get and a 60 hp gian over stock is not something impossible, the bottem end would easely maintain that much

do you have a stock turbo so a l20ET or a NA? you can find out the head number like the hayens manual states between the #1 and second sparkplug off teh front of the car ( passenger side at a fairlady) it will porblably state e30 or e31 of what i have encountered of l20 engines ( mine is out of a 280zx )

Here we need TonyD or Auzzie people is it a l20ET ? or a stock L20E? since the cranck is a normal l28 e et cranck right so the only limitation would be how much the pistons would hold up, and what kind of head you are using .. ( what head does a l20ET use anyway?) I would say you need something like a megasquirts and bigger injectors to really come to a full and safe potential... but still a litlle more specs on teh engine ( head injector size etc) and TonyD or some onefrom DOWN UNDER would help good luck

well after talking to they guy i decided to test this set up, it does make a whole lot of sense, even big track cars are using a similar set up. In theory this will give a very flat power curve that will give me more 'averange' power on tap than a peak power. So i might have lower peak power but more in the power band... By 60 AR i mean the compressor. and i will be building an exhaust manifold with bigger smoother runners hopefully before running it (i will use an extarnal waste gate either way). Im very eager to find out, since it might be much more drivable, and on street or track even faster , theoretical that is. there has to be somebody who did this right !! btw pump gas here is 98 and we have VMAX at 100 or even 105 at the border and in germany

again this is my concern aswell, but we will see, since this guy seemed not to talk BS so lets asume he is right i do have a 60AR T4 exhaust house, however it would spool up really quick right? and at max 20 to 22 PSI for overboost ( on my controller) But what did you make the change to a bigger AR? and what where the futher specs to your turbo ? you said it spooled up fairly quick right ? anyhow i want somewhere between 300 and 350 RWHP and a broad powerband, Im not getting any or much use out of a big spool up time, so broad power band! this is what i told the guy, and he came up with this, shall i tell him to change it, and ifso for what ? Anybody have any figures on this set up ? I'm even more curious now, i mean i tend to lean towards this board but this guy knows his stuff, are we all wrong, or would this be better for drivabillity ??? upto know i only drove the car at 10psi with the stock turbo, im just really curious to test both AR's ( stock and this one) So what would my power potential be at say 15 And 20 PSI could i not reach the 300 mark?

Dont know if it works for anybody but the exhaust housing says M4 and DH1 and DHSG N! maybe somebody knows what these number mean but else has thoughst on smaller ar housings? this could be intreting because it would theoretically be a postive thing for powerband and drivabillity from the information i got to a certain extend, however did anybody here do it

so when you caot the wheel is it more durable than just clearcoat, since with clearcout you seem to get corrsion under the coat layer pretty fast. Also to answer the queation to chrome or not... i would not but that is because i prefer the look of polished alu it has a blueish gloss i tend to like

same way here MSS does rock i have seen it operate on xander ( his car i might ad) ( minus spark at the time, but im confident it that) And i have became a fan of this However that would enable you to sqeez that 300 benchmark more stable! and monitored ( giving peace of mind )

intresting let us know, the 60 AR housing on my set up is to increase the flow aswel, so that theory stands, did you manage to get the AF more stable aswel ?

I was planning on using a normal t3 (stock exhaust housing), so Im sceptical to a certain extend aswel. Though this guy who knows his stuff told me to go this way and convinced me. so basicly i did my homework, but according to this guy, for european road conditions (sprinting in diffrent rpm bands) and drivability this would be the way to go. also note that the turbine wheel is a 'hybrid' so it will flow more air (more air more gains!) well it is a nice test, im very eager though i need to finish my car so this wont be before next spring. so do you know anybody that did this? and the drivabillity factor does play a role here. I agree on with you however it is an experiment that given this guys rep and experiance with the L series and turbos im willing to try and believe. even when it goes agianst my homework, wich is based on american forums under american conditions, and mainly qauter racers.. i think this guy might have a point. However the large IC smal AR housing is weird concept to me too, I talked it over with Xander last night and we both where more or less lost on this info. But agian this guy builds turbos for world rally cars, so he might know his stuff. Im building a stable drivable fast car that can mantian high speeds for durable times, not a just a sprinter so note this does put a differnt strain and therfor approach to it ( and boost behavior) driving at 220KMH for sustaind time will put me up for diffrent cahllanges... well im your test platform if it does not work i just have to take my stock t3 AR for now i think this will widen my powerband, and make it more drivable anybody?

That is what i would think aswel, however im not building a drag car but a road/circuit high speed car. Or as afriend tells me, 'a circuit car that happens to be road legal ' I am planning to run at 15 to 17 psi and set the overboost on my Greddy profec a to 20 psi (give or take a psi or two), also we will be making exhaust mainifolds, that will help getting the backpressure down by improving the flow over the stock unit. The exhaust house has a 3"outlet and aside from the compression side its size it seems much better desinged for flow than the stock nissan unit. I will also be fabricating a 3"dp and not with the factory 90+ degree corner. I have to agree i have more or less the same worries, however agian these are my psi goals for now Also this guy pointed out series of cars that dropped their AR sides due to larger intercoolers, so he could back up his statement And since im not adressing the cam there is no need to rev past 6000 rpms, due to teh fact the car really doesnt do much after that ( or even 500 rpm before) sure this has some cause in the stock fuel managament, but largly due to the engines lay out. well we will see ... curious did anyone do this in the past? however a great trade to a bare l28 block and a p90a head with some misc parts ! note it is brand new !

hehe ok that just rose my to be boost level