Tony D

USAA is military related... There are tendrils that get people in... But not many.

From Facebook it came, to Facebook it returns! LOL

5.... 4.... 3.... 2.... 1.... !!!!!

Yeah, no gear drives here in the US... I've been out of the L4 stuff for a while... KA's were new the last time I messed with a Z24 Hybrid. I've heard the KA Swap... But then again if I could get a BDA Ford...

No such thing by definition, the opening events on a Turbo Cam minimise overlap, and generally concentrate on lift to accomplish breathing improvements. Within reason those ramp rates that remain stable return good idle vacuum characteristics... Which in turn are OEM ECU friendly. Understand if you get "aggressive" like JeffP you are not going with an unported head. In fact, the dynamics of the assembly of an UNPORTED head dictate restricted lift since opening the valve further than your peak head flow point just wastes ramp and beats up your springs. On an UNPORTED head, you can only get so "aggressive"... Now if you got a head to flow 220cfm at 550" lift you could make prodigious turbo power with a cam optimised with different ramps to get that cam to 550 and add boost. It could literally be a stock cam, yet you double or even triple horsepower and still have a 5500 power peak. Mess with duration and get aggressive and you end you with a turbo cam that idles at 900, barely makes 10" of vacuum so your vacuum bullfrog croaks continuously to keep the leaking HVAC Controls working, and has a power peak somewhere north of 7400 and a power potential over 763RWHP, but that is another conversation altogether...

Fuel pump shutting off is either oil pressure switch issue or contacts in the AFM. But not necessarily an AFM issue, if hte car stalls, the flapper closes and the fuel pump shuts off. Odd as it is to say, what solved that on someone's car I worked on was a valve adjustment. Car would barely idle and then get into hysteresis because the engine would rev, then stall, pump shut off, but 'recatch' and start to rev up again (pump then comes back on), but due to fuel starvation engine dies (fuel pump shuts off) repeat.... Car go real smooth after valve adjustment, fuel presure dropped 5PSI! Vacuum at idle went from 8"hg to 18" HG. There was a timing adjustment as well since the guy had advanced the timing to 'isle up' the engine because turning the (fouled with PCV CRAP) idle adjustment screw didn't do anything. Really, go to the basics before starting troubleshooting. Do a full proper mechanical tune up with the car and make sure all settings are correct....THEN start diagnosis. The 45 minutes - hour you take doing this may annoy some...but the time it saves later in diagnosis as you spend time finding symptoms, finding the issue, repairing it...then having something else jump up...

Not Original, it is Aftermarket.

We call that an "L20B" here in the states! LOL (Or was that Z24? Did you guys get the LZ series down there?) Take the truck LZ24, Use the L-Head, muahahahha! 2.4 four cylinder...

"All the same." Dependent on all arms in the same plane on the crossbar, and all carbs perfectly in-synch and flowing identically. The length is different depending on the top link. What is on my DCOE/FET manifold may not be what is on your DCOE/Cannon or someone else's DCOE/TWM setup.

"I brought all the used parts to fix it, you need to warranty it..." LOL http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7452561/the-mechanic-the-customer How many times have garage owners gone through this conversation?

***My goodness Tony, we certainly are cranky this morning. And to think its just because of a couple (hundred) stupid questions. Oh, by the way, do I meed a special wristwatch to set the timing on a '33 Hudson? (Ducks at the sound of an approaching spark plug)*** "Thousand", not "Hundred" (And it was last night, for me!) And asking which specialty equipment to use for a job wouldn't be considered plugworthy. That response usually elicited a 'Vass do you think you need to do dis chob? Unt vy?" Now, if you responded to THAT with a typical teenage "DuhIdunno?" the lightning quickness of a 1/4-20 nut from the box and on your way may be a response. There were varied terms of response, size of nuts - force on the throw - and vocal response. You really had to piss him off to get the spark plug. I know I did it three or four times and it really was a stupid question--borne totally of my own sloth to reflect upon what I was taught and in retrospect I admit I DID know the answer. See, the thing that style taught me was though repetition from an instructor will eventually sink in.... If YOU are constantly searching your own mind, you reinforce the pathways to what you were taught and it's FAR more educational to work it out on your own with your own knowledge. When you repeat it yourself, it seems to stick faster. But you have to be willing to do that work. And it is work. The plugs and nuts just made it happen faster. If you got an underhanded toss of a nut and "the look" was a "you know better". For my part, all I could think of was what he went through in the early 50's in Germany as an apprentice. I mean....the guys showing HIM the ropes had to be IRON. And I think they took their trade SERIOUSLY.... in fact, deadly serious. I think those were the recipients of the hardest whip of a D15Y (Champion Spark Plugs and AC/Delco were in Flint at the time, and they gave us BOXES of plugs...) were the guys who were not taking their lessons seriously. Or who took assessing the manual arts/trades in a backhanded manner or with derrogatory comments. Rudy hated the term "Grease Monkey." He also could not believe there was no apprenticeship in the USA for Automotive Trades. He was aghast that guys dropped out in the 4th grade and went to work doing a 20 year apprenticeship through trial and error than follow a German-Style start at 16 with Academic Training accompanied with rigorous technical hands-on instruction. Some 20 years later, I had an old German welder come up to me one day out of the blue and say "You can use any of my tools from the truck. "You are the first American I've seen who knows how to use that (hacksaw) properly!" If trained strictly, and while young, those proper methodologies carry you the rest of your life. Be lazy and slack in the instruction, and it only compounds itself later on. It's the bane of my existence now in China... I'm constantly reminded that on the last day of class he said "Zer ar not enuf zbarkploogs to fix zum off you, I can only do zo much viss mien time. Zum off you chould conzider other trades. Gud luck!" And HOW I wish I could suggest that to some of the guys there. Some people have a gift, others don't. You can't force some stuff, this kind of work is one of those things. Some people should just pay someone to do it, and be content learning what they can to understand what the people they pay are doing.

Fuel pressure is high, it flooded the engine. Fix that first. Put your old regulator back in. Pull the plugs, dry them off dry out the cylinders. Disconnect your CSV, both electrically and clamp off the fuel line. Try it again.

I won't dredge up the detailed post on the 510 Wagon EVAP Delete...but the vapor phase recovery tank on that car was missing also so I was forced by expedience to come up with deletion alternative. I first converted the larger 15mm vent lines to 3/8" using similar style Nylon Adapters as Nissan used for coupling hoses. Then when they were all up to where the old tank was, they got manifolded together on a log I made from brass piping "T" fittings. The tank held 5psi for 24 hours without leakdown. The only thing I did afterwards was make sure not to fill all the way to the top if I wasn't driving off on a long trip. Without the vapor-phase tank, there really isn't any expansion alternative for the gasoline. It will either go up the filler neck, or (more likely) in liquid form travel forward in the vapor line and puke directly into the crankcase, or air cleaner. I've replaced the EVAP cannister in some 260's with one from a Geo Metro. I've toyed with the idea of putting the entire EVAP system, charcoal canister and all in the back of the car near the tank... One or two lines front to back should do it... Would make updating a smelly old 240 to modern captive emissions (no smell in the garage after shutdown) capabilities.

I will admit this to any noob who think's I'm 'MEAN': Let me take your fingertip, and place it into the divot I got from a Champion L88Y.(Actually, feeling around up there, I think I can find three that left permanent divots. Ground electrodes dig!) Explaining a scalp wound "from autoshop" to your father (who happened to be Superintendent of Schools) was exceedingly easy in those days, the only comment was "Well, I hope you learned a lesson from whatever gave you that gash, you probably won't make that mistake again!" I guess growing up then was a bit more....uh..."physical".... And yeah, I LEARNED! When you asked Rudy a 'stupid' question, you got a sharp rap from a nut or spark plug. Ask the man a GOOD question, and you would be showered with knowledge. Being able to form a good question shows the cognitive ability to RECEIVE a detailed answer of several hundred words. It's a noob's resume for anybody taking their time and prospectively answering him. And it is pinned to the top of the forum... That should indicate by title alone in fact, what people should expect here!

You're lucky I have insomnia based on depression to stay up all night loading what I do here!

Really? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110485-bcbroncos-surge-tank-install-and-use/

I got an industrial saw from a shop going out of business. Nobody wanted it because it sat outside... Scrap price: $25 Wide blade with a 256T Framed 3Phase motor on it... Monster! Hydraulic snubbers, wide blade, almost 700#! A few hours on a sunny day with scotch rite and battleship grey epoxy, along with a 2hp 256T Frame single phase compressor-duty motor on sale at HF and it was in business. This blade can go sloooooooooooooooow on the compound pulley setup it has. Can cut 8" structural beams on it! Way overkill for anything I will ever do, but for what I paid for it... Hell, I can't complain! Always check local shops for "old tools they never use any more" they usually hoarde them in the back of the shop until a big enough pile exists to justify a scrap ion run. You can get some great "lifetime tools" in such places. They may not be new, they may not look flashy... But they're BUILT, and chances are after you start using it no matter hat you o, you won't wear it out in your lifetime!

Btw, if you find the latest "Nostalgic Hero" GT-R special edition, you will recognise that engine bay. It's the same car. This shop did four of the cars in the latest issue. His dedication to preservation of the history of the marque is admirable!

Those iPhone Photos were all pretty much from one shop. I did nt bring my Nikon. Now, someone has put me onto a Z432R replica (and Hako GT-R) here in Bangkok... Which I hope to visit this weekend to photograph with my DSLR. I have GPS coordinates...and my friend says he knows the area... So maybe it will be a good Saturday trip?

I have run the right rear corner vent line as a return since 1985. I don't know if hat is the top of the tank or not, but it may be. There were two tank top vents, only one needs to work o perform proper EVAP & Venting functions... The very purpose of the large diameter vent hoses is in fact to allow for expansion of fuel into them to prevent an issue of belch-out through the filler neck. If you have good vent hoses (the 15mm ones) then the smaller 8mm are redundant, and vice-versa. I routinely re plumb these large, expensive 15mm hoses with commonly available 3/8"~10mm fuel line which seems to rout easier, it lighter, and has ABSOLUTELY corking the EVAP system tight enough to give a 5psi 24 hour leak down check. If you eliminate the CRANKCASE ACCUMULATION feature of your 240Z, I have previously documented my setup so you don't push fuel out: As I said, there are TWO points on the top of the tank. One is used as a return, the other goes up to the area of the vapor canister, makes a double loop, then exits the right rear near the filler neck hose on the tank. I use a small K&N filter on it as a breather filter. Normally makeup air fur tank suck down or venting from expansion was directed to the air cleaner or crankcase, depending on running status of the engine. In normal operation, the fuel WILL EXPAND up the 15mm hoses and even the filler neck...but ONLY SO FAR due o the pressure break action of the flow diverter valve. If you dont have that break on it (which you could install on the use I mention above...and run TWO small K&N filters for "makeup and vent") and don't vent the tank as I have repeatedly suggested whenever this comes up, one f two things will happen: 1) pressure builds and you find out how good your big vent lines are, or how good your tank cap gasket is (if they are good, like meme which hold 5psig) then you start sinking the floats on your webers while sitting in the hot sun and think you're percolating... Or some such high-pressure issue (leaks at tank filler hose, etc... Usually you find your leaking vent hoses... 2) under way, you don't notice a thing, unless like me you have tight good hoses everywhere on your EVAP system and don't have any air makeup... In which case, going batshit crazy banzai running down I15, you start running mysteriously lean, and eventually end up dead at the roadside. Then you can't restart even though you show 3/4 full of fuel. It sent until someone notices your tank filler neck SUCKED FLAT AS A PANCAKE that you realize you sucked your tank down, and without makeup air, you made a vacuum...which the pump can not overcome. Then you remove the cap on the flow diverter valve in the engine bay and hear it whistle like mad ... Or you open your tank and hear a giant sucking WOOOOSH! After which you drive away. Contrary to shade tree lore, things were not put on the car that don't need to be there, and that goes for "th' 'missuns crap" also! You CAN use the EVAP return line for your fuel return. You just have to properly vent the tank (the line's original function) to maintain proper fuel NPSH to the pump. You can do a simple single loop to filter as I did (straight vent) or incorporate the OEM Flow-control valve and two filters at the rear of the car to maintain residual pressure in the tank when expanding, and OEM vacuum break function whilst driving r cooling off at the end of the day. You CAN use that fitting / fittings... I've done it without your issue going on close to 30 years now. No, you don't just cap it or delete it without knowing and replacing it's function. Since 1994 I personally have never said to do that--on the contrary in fact! It's the easiest way to return fuel in a conversion, and he 3/16 line works great as a supplemental surge tank bleed. The top two 1/4" lines on the tank are employed as return for fuel, and vent for tank, and everything works just fine!

Unless you specifically want photos of one with mechanical FI, your request is 24 hours late! Flushed my iPad of a whole buttload of photos including my trip to the GT-R / 432 Specialist shop outside Tokyo... Oh wait, I didn't flush them all... 16 GB flushed down to around 500 photos, I don't know why these are still on here, actually! I know all the exhaust side and LY photos went bye bye during my purge last night. HS30H (Alan) has archival material that is critical to making something "correct" on one of these cars. The regular 432, and 432R engine are identical externally, unless you are looking for full on prepped engines...and there is where Alan's photo archive comes to the front of the pack! This was my seeker, Mr. Okamura, he looks Yakuza-Wicked Baddass with that cig hangin' cool and wheeling out of Tokyo Auto Salon! Thanks Okamura-San!!!

No problem on the spelling. I have never heard the low profile was anything but aftermarket. The Nissan Procedure for mounting the rings had you putting in nut plates according to an instruction sheet. It's not like the buckets came drilled from the factory that way. I wish I had my receipts here for the P/N's. I know I went in with the same P/N for years, but along the way...what I got was different (in number only, it fit the same holes, had the same 'high bump' design.) I really can't see them going to the 'flatter' version later on---as you said, retooling costs. It was bought and paid for by then! And on top of that, my 75 & 77 are 'late' and in Japan when I got the replacements, they were the "early" design. I am wondering if someone is confusing "Early" with "Nissan" and "Late-Flat" with "Aftermarket" as they were FAR more prevalent later in the run as the years went on. I know my 75 and 77 Fairlady Z had them from the factory...and they were the 'Early High Profile' style. And that would make no sense whatsoever!

Very nice back seat matching! My 2+2 could use those.....

Yep!

Yeah, I know.... hehehehe I posted a photo of that. Some sink liners through the spacer for 'permanent conversion'... Then no funky ring-stack. I'm lounging in Bangkok right now, I should order my massage...