Tony D

Some would call you hoarder... I wouldn't, but some would! Hahaha NOS parts, in original boxes...rarely become worthless... NOS parts, put on a vehicle rarely add what they were worth in a box. Unless you have got a good candidate for using them (or prospect), putting them on something just to do it isn't really prudent. This is coming to a guy who literally GAVE AWAY five pair of early Fairlady Z tail light assemblies complete with harnesses on the premise of. "I only got one car, how many spares do I need?"

On the suction side under draw from the pump even the smallest leak can make you loose prime. One function of the EVAP system on the car is to harness the pressure of expanding vapours to slightly pressurise the tank, and therefore flood the inlet to the pump. Somepeopleare so efficient removing their EVAP system, they neglect to remember the system also let's air INTO the tank (filtered) when the fuel level changes...if this function at a minimum is not maintained the tank can quickly go into a slight vacuum and that can be all it takes. I have seen the Bendix pumps literally collapse the filler necks and show zero fuel pressure. Open the gas cap and all's fine again. Suddenly the cap on the vapor line wasn't so sanitary. Been that way for years, but once the vapor hoses were all repaired, there was no way for air to get into the tank as it was sucked dry.

As someone who travels internationally 270 days a year... "Skype" - set it up as an American account and get the "Skype Out" option, calling land lines won't burn your credit. It works on smartphones so any decent wifi will let you connect. If you had a friend in the USA, you could buy a Magic Jack Plus for $69, and have unlimited calls in the US/Canada for a year. Or for $125, five years. Works anywhere you have an Internet cable. Anybody anywhere claiming calling isn't possible....isn't trying! I'm calling Germany, UK, Holland, Japan, from any number of countries, and back to the US Constantly. We're talking a few cents per minute! Anybody trying to on duct overseas transactions without the means to call risks far too much IMO. It's far too easy. In fact, I know someone who mailed a Magic Jack to someone outside London so they old freely make calls on a weekly basis. Retires who just want to shoot the poop... For the. Investment of five years calling...it's less than a week of my possible international cellular bill!,,

I had a surprise like that las Christmas...only the car was blue!

Air leaks at a connection upstream of the pump will kill suction head every time! What's in the filter?

" One big problem with the Dells is jet part numbers. It would make sense that to get more rich, you would move from a 1 to a 2 to a 3 and so on. Not so. A 9 may be richer than a 4 which may be richer than a 6. It was like the manufacturer was on drugs when making part numbers." They are Italian, this negates logic when dealing with part numbers. If they were German (Solex/nee Mikuni) the part numbers would be constipatingly logical.... Tomlinson's book is great, it was sold through CB and VW vendors for years.

A " pull up" linkage is a possibility! That seems to be all I can find these days. The arms in the OP are definitely like all the stuff I have always seen. Those being "pull up" may explain it. Or TTom do mean going on the opposite side of the carb? I think those washers are integral to the arm (resistance spot welded) ?

Those arms are wrong on your kit. The ear is where your throttle arm idle tab would hit, and the screw in there sets the idle speed of the carb. All your arm has is the throttle stop for WOT. (Helps if I blow it up--looks like it is a correct linkage --what I thought was the idle speed screw is hiding behind your linkage.) check with Pegasus Racing, or Redline Weber, they should be able to get the correct arms for your DCOE's... With the offset arm to clear your obstacle.

1mm=0.040"

I had a 78 VW Microbus lined up for this transplant and alas I never to to it in time -- the Microbus went away, sadly! The TDI is such a nice engine, and cheap... Though, being truthful, were I shipping a container from Europe...the BMW M3 Diesel mill (or even standard 2.0 diesel) would be in there!

Webers were the racing alternative to the Solex... Solexes were an OEM offering, the Webers with drastically smaller acceleration pumps were the "racing alternative" as for some reason Solexes got a bad rap (likely because they were the OEM offering, nothing more.)

I often said the way most guys drive their Z-Cars they wouldn't notice the difference if one was to swap the TDI into it! Most guys shift before 3,000 rpm's, and when they really "wind it out" they consider 5,400 in 3rd doing 140kph as really twisting the nipples of the car. "Welcome to a VW Jetta TDI"! I stand by it, if you dampen the motor mounts and put it in a stock-looking car, most guys wouldn't know the engine had been changed. And yeah, an Essing Diesel Tuning chip and you're pretty stout! All stock on the internals and turbo!

I was just contacted by the buyer of #51, which means likely #205 will FINALLY be leaving my backyard to fulfil it's destiny as donor beyotch for the restoration of the cancerous #51!

Uh, not in California, my friend! They can do roadside emissions compliance inspections and have had that ability since before I could drive, since before Ponch & John were cruising, hell, back to the days of Broderick Crawford an "Stories of the Highway Patrol" You say "no" be prepared to walk, likely your car will be impounded. Act like an obstinate arse, and your life on the roadside becomes very bad, very quickly!

Aircraft Spruce sells Alodine which gives Mazak Bodies that GM Quadrajet Brownish look... Cars well plating sells many different compounds to brighten/plate just about anything.

HLS30-06330 & S30-06225... Wanna guess which one is "earlier" production by date?

That may be the case with many. Not All by any means. The Koyo Radiator is designed and engineered by an OEM Supplier that consulted with enthusiasts, and manufacturers their stuff on the same ISO 14,000/9000 etc Assembly lines as they make their OEM Supply Chain units. China generally knocks off what someone else engineers right now. Sometimes badly. But there ARE engineered components. Koyo Rad vs China EBay Cheapy Quaife ATB vs OBX Trust/Greddy/HKS vs EBay Chinese Cheapies Just about anything sold legally in Europe is TÃœV approved or certified. Many people are just expecting too much in many cases. They complain a Quaife is $1,800... They similarly complain the OBX has machine chips and cheap hardware for 1/6 the price. You can't have it all, all the time. You want something cheap and good quality? Start your own business, then have some Chinese company knock-off a short "quality control test run" of product. Minimum Order, maybe 10 units. Then never go into production. They will give you the best to rope you in, sometimes startingly good quality, then start cutting corners after you sign that long term high volume contract. Manufacturing in China requires strict oversight, the people that are successful manufacturing there for global market have people on the ground watching....continuously! A good quick primer is a book: "Poorly Made in China" I gave it to our China Liason and I swear he told me it saved his sanity! It tells it like it is...

Call the cops, make a report, and put in a claim against your homeowners insurance policy. We had a similar situation on some battery disconnect switches that went missing when the car was in the shop for paint. Shop owner argued there were never any disconnects..."nobody on day shift did it, but I'm not here at night." "I'm going to go home, print the date coded pictures, and bring the camera I took the photos with back here -- before the end of this shift, and then call the sheriff to swear out a theft complaint so they can question BOTH shifts, and maybe bring some other people with me." When I returned, curiously my battery disconnects were back on the car... But nobody on day shift took them...

"Wish i could put them on my 77 because that car with stock Fuel Injection feels soooooooo slow compared to the triple webers." I thought the same thing. They make the right noises... But my dyno checks and 1/4 mile times proved otherwise. You just don't bolt them on and surpass what the stock EFI makes. (That is with the recommended jetting from redline or Mikuni) I've posted that before, I've seen more than one 80 HP L28 with Triples...

I've said for about 23 years that sine I did it at age...uh...21 that getting 350Hp out of an L28 is child's play. They were EVERYWHERE mid-80's inJapan. As I gained knowledge, and pushed it, I eventually made more, and 400 I would say with today's technology (and not a blow through triple Mikuni) should be about today's "easy equivalent". That last 100HP, you BETTER know what you're doing in terms of tuning, or you will be going through ITM Pistons regularly. Thing is, blowing five slugs out of your stock engine cots you $300... And you can do that QUITE A FEW TIMES tuning before you get to the cost of one forged, balanced, hyper built bottom ends. My point was, the longer you "learn" on those Junkyard bottom ends, the better position you are to tune it when you put your expensive bottom end in there and tune that area between 7,000 and ????. Some people realise when tuning to 7,000 and 17 psi that 500HP may just be enough for them... And then putting that forged bottom end in becomes longevity/optional... And you will have a 100% tuned map if you keep it at that. Like I said all along, don't get greedy, don't do anything stupid...

It was always my understanding that the P90-P79 were "for all intents and purposes identical" in regards to performance. Of course that was out there before the Internet exposed thousands to "education"...

I'm being watched, and "enjoy the added scrutiny of my posts"!

Reno, huh? Go drive around Carson City looking for a copper coloured 280ZXT with T-Tops and Convo Pros... He can tell you which one...with an internal waste gate as well!

At the time it was stock, but the KA24 boxes are now my preference. A melted piston may be detonation. Preignition is another term to look up, and the interaction between the two. Detonation can break things, but it can also set up conditions were in audible precognition goes undetected and things just fry! My problem with Corky's book was it was outdated the second it was printed. The Watson text theorised a shift in terminology from the 70's scenario of boost threshold being where it made anything at all, and the newest (1982 engineering) that shifted the point to "full" boost as most wheel cuts were then to a point that "some" boost was available at ANY rpm. It made the historic paradigm of the 1960's Chevrolet Corvair style boost (none in first, nothing until near redline in second, get it strong above 3,000 in third...) unusable in the modern manufacturing context. Like the Hugh Macinness "Turbochargers" book, it was chock full of 60's information about overboard boost upping, and crap like that, to Corky's which was 10 years newer, but still using decade-old plus paradigms. Contemporaneously, Bob Tomlinson's book "Turbomania" is relatively unknown outside the VW world, but really addresses the proper application of multiple carburettor end turbocharged engines. But to have such puffery associated with Maximum Boost as "The Definitive Book on Turbocharging"? HOGWASH! I paid the $184 and was blown away by Watson's book, and it opened my eyes to the marketing and sales job that was being done in "Maximum Boost"... It was revised in 2003, second edition. I'd be interested in seeing the changes. I see its on torrents and as a PDF on some forums... Reading the first few comments on the book on Amazon currently, I see others see some of this as well. It's a nice primer, but it's hardly definitive, and definitely a marketing pamphlet! If ANY engineer could see the performance of a GT35R with a 0.63 Hotside A/R on an L28, they too would agree the definition of the turbo world to that point was useless. It makes 3psi off-idle, and with electronic controls now it's possible to get a boosted IDLE if you o desire! (Not great or housing and wheel longevity...) basically off idle giving it WOT and you to 3psi. So what relevance does the old definition of "Boost Threshold" have when in most any turbo today properly sized and installed, it effectively is "Zero"?

John C speaks the truth. I called JeffP to check his progress, stock bottom end and is now at 17psi on pump gas loosing traction at 4000 in 3rd gear, and sometimes in third if he isn't running wrinkle walls. He has now surpassed his 3.0L build when it was featured in the magazine. He's at close to 500RWHP, and out of load scalar and injector pulse width on the Ford Lightning MAF and 729CC Injectors. He's running to 7200 and now wishes he dad his VO7 short block so he could do what I suggested and run it to 8,500!!! The key is cooling the head properly, and proper fuel and spark control. He says he's just now sensing some ping in the mix (and I as soothsayer reminded him "don't do anything stoopid!") so now wonders if he should get some race fuel, or start with he Methanol injection... The mantra repeated to Jeff and I by the E-motive guys was "cooling, cooling, cooling" we would ask about fuelling, they would talk about cooling. We would ask about timing, they would say "we never had a DNF from the cooling system!" The stopgap methods of addressing detonation (lower CR) are just that, a poor bandaid. MLS gaskets and O-Rings aren't meant to contain NORMAL cylinder pressures... Do the math at 1,100 HP to find peak cylinder pressures for the piston crown and you can see your material strength requirement. Oh, did I mention Jeff is running a FelPro. He thought they were crap because they kept blowing...until on the third one he saw detonation damage on the piston crown. Damn, they blew because pressure was ABNORMAL! There are so many myths out there from tried and proven "works good enough" band-aid remedies, that finding the real SCIENCE behind the ROOT CAUSE of the failures... And Jeff now wholeheartedly recommends my approach o turbo engine building: spend your money on fuel and spark, bolt ons, and head/cam work and learn to tune on the STOCK BOTTOM END, when it goes, it's not material failure...it's your inability to properly tune that detonated and broke something. Once you have your stocker tuned (7,000 rpm map) by then you should know how to tune, you will have AT LEAST one core for he forged buildup, go build it and tune the last 1,500-2,000 rpms of turbocharged screamer power. But if JeffS build is my indication, he's at or near 500rwhp now on a stock bottom end. What's your expectation for power increase in that last 2,000 rpms? It's really for longevity at that point because the fuel and spark are already tuned! Detonation Kills. Stock $150 Junkyard Bottom End, $3,000 Forged Rebello Bottom End, or $?,??? Sunbelt Bottom (or Top) End!