Tony D

Oh great...

the Jim Wolf Setup runs them at 3 Bar, I believe... Pretty close to 50psi huh?

observation, but I just found someone who is making first-generation replicas off original purchased in 1974 Nissan OEM Flares, so I likely will snag from him. I saw the product on the car, what a difference a couple of generations of replicants makes! Where's Bruce Willis when you need him, eh?

It was from the Gold Book for Collector Cars (I believe...) I don't know if it's online or not. This is a link to NADA Collectible showing a running 71 240Z at low pricing of $7K: Shocking Pricing This is not the place though, mine was a dead trees edition, and was specifically for collector cars, giving a condition from 1-7, with 7 being considered "a complete, running or non-running parts car incapable of moving under it's own power and needing trailering to recover" I was shocked as the pricing of the cars in conditions 1-4 roughly coincided with the NADA Guides for Collectible Cars, but NADA does not valuate non-running vehicles, whereas this one did. At that time, the low price for a 71 240Z was $2500 as a "parts car" It differentiated condition 6 and condition 7 as basically the ability to move under it's own power to it's next place of storage in a reasonable distance, but requiring a complete cosmetic, mechanical, and electrical restoration to bring it to saleable condition. i came to the conclusion everything I own is either condition 5, 6 or 7. My daily driver is a 5....

May carburetted blow-through setup returned 17mpg daily driving through carbon canyon from corona to Brea for work. EFI re Ali rated bumped HP by about 25 horses and gave my partial throttle fuel economic Y a bump to the high 20's, and with steady state driving a best if 32mpg! The ability to richen boost tip in and run lean as he'll off boost is just something you won't get on the Carbs! That said, my blowthrough gave comparable mileage as the SUs that were on there for SMOG Checking. Carbs or Blowthrough, on track days the mileage was more like 5mpg. Use the power, no free rides. I was over 300 though. Probably 20-25% more.

I would clean parts and coat them with weld-thru primer. As well as on any bare metal on the car. When I tacked it in place, being able to strike an arc onconductive primer was a plus. Then once I was satisfied with the position, a quick wipe with lacquer thinner, or a quick whire wheel and away I went with the final welds. Don't know if that's the way you're SUPPOSED to use it, but it's the way I always did.

Rested with proper FSM, if it tests bad, either replace it, or don't drive in that rpm range.

Everybod here is missing the fact he used the wrong FSM to test the AFM, but both he had in the car tested bad, and the place he will never go back to suggested AFM as well. If your replacement tests bad, do you really expect it to act any different from the one already in the car testing identically? What was that definition about trying the same thing repeatedly and expecting a different result?

Any head is a good flowing head, with the nod going to E31 and the early L24 E88's due to having thicker castings... If you go through the trouble of building an engine from the bottom-up, don't saddle it with a head that is stock!

Yeah, Frank 280ZX had me looking this past week for them! LOL I saw some last year in Japan, a tupperware container full, actually. So I hope to be back in the same area to pick some up for him then. This past Friday I saw an S30 FRP Aero Undertray... Only saw that in parts and sports-option catalogs. Last bit to the G-Nose Aero Package. Then again, there was a slidevalve injection system hanging on the wall along with the S20 head it came along with... Not ZX Rare, but I would think there were only 10's of those produced.

News: Old Car and Collector Car guides have pegged the price of complete "Condition 7" cars at $2500 for the 240's. Some discount for the later models, but not a lot. The days of a running driving car for under even 2000 are numbered. If you can find three-digit sales, and like a particular aspect (you mentioned white interior) then buy it, strip it for the parts, and sell the remains for what you have in the car. This is becoming more and more possible. Eventually you find something you can install the distinctive parts into, and have a minimum of major rework. But the idea that paying 2k for an East Coast car, being comparable to a 2000 West Coast car, plus shipping is unlikely unless as stated you can do all the work yourself. I know people in Michigan that put 1200 into rust repair on late model Corvairs, when unbeknownst to me the price for pristine CA cars was under 500!!! Swap interiors and you would have had a far more complete, solid car. Auto transport is the same as welding--you can do it yourself and save a LOT on the costs. I know where there are around 15-20 documented, complete, and rust free early Z's but the owner is in ABSOLUTELY no rush to sell. In fact he take pains to keep it under cover so he doesn't have to turn anybody away yet. As he said: "Ain't making these anymore, tinworks eating em up back east, in a few years when the economy comes back there's gonna be some MMTS Easterner who will pay far more than my cost for storage and Non-Op!" From what I can tell by the tags, he's sat on most of these cars since the Nissan Resto-Program, and has watched their value increase by a factor of 10 since then! I think that was his point to start unloading them, but he hasn't said anything to me yet. Said since I know so many people, I'd bs one of the first to know when he starts to sell. He'll, I got cars out back at my place that if prices keep escalating I might clear out! He'll of a markup on "free!" LOL

Speed is not what you need, it's a calibrated load cell and keyphasor. They only spin the modules to 1800-3600 RPMs and make corrections accordingly. You realise these spin 100,000rpms in use, right? Order of magnitude for imbalances. Good Luck.

Oh, and Kali was there when I was working. I was there when he was working. When he was back to the show, I was flying home!

In the tuner car section the G-Works Magazine had their project S30's on display. Pretty awesome to read a magazine on the way to an event and then see the car "in person" on display. Actually, as nice as the TAS was, I went with someone to the shop of a guy I met last year at the Odaiba Swap Meet. For my money, as cool and fascinating it was at TAS (and I WOULD go there again, the conspiracy is in the works already!) I would go back to that shop just to try and learn something from the owner. I saw mor S20's in one place there than I have over 20 years! There were things he was replicating, or installing on cars that I've only seen in old catalogs and sports option parts lists... Ever see a Nissan FRP Aerodynamic Undertray that works in conjunction with the G-Nose? Neither did I till I walked up to an orange car at this shop and realised it had on fitted! If there was ever a time I regretted not taking my Nikon with me... iPhone photos there only. Alas! Oh, and Rocky Auto had a nice S30 on display with a lower-half paintjob of the Alsa Chrome paint... Wicked!

Actually, Snoop is FAR "bubblier" than any dish soap mixture I have ever tried. I don't know what they put in it, but it shows leaks where Dawn/Joy/Palmolive don't bubble at all. I can't explain it, that is just the way it is...

Neither BOLT you have will really matter. I'd put head STUDS in to replace the current BOLTS as your thought on saving the head gasket is not likely to pan out in action. You can redo the bottom end with STUDS when the engine comes out again. The main reason to put STUDS is you are into the engine repeatedly for freshening. There is far more chance you will have the head off before you have to go into the bottom end again.

RB240 is barking up the wrong tree with the "stretching" argument. None of the fasteners are, as stated "torque to yield" and therefore technically possible to be reused (THE NOTABLE EXCEPTION IS ROD NOLTS, they are stretched during tightening and are operation critical due to cyclic loading, and should NE replaced each time, or replaced with reusable fasteners like 396 Chevy or ARP's) The reason they are called out for replacement is "burnishing"---the threads in the block are burnished each time a fastener is installed in it. Same for the bolt (it's a bolt, not a stud, design applications are different!) What you design a fastener for is between 75-80% of tensile strength. How do you get this? Torque the bolt right? WRONG! Torque is only an APPROXIMATION of tensile loading. This approximation takes underhead and thread friction into account. These two frictional losses account to nearly 85% of the torque you read on the wrench. ANY change in the friction on the threads can directly return that much more tensile loading of the fastener. On high stress fasteners like head bolts this can mean putting the fastener into the plastic deformation phase from merely being loaded to 80% of tensile. This inconsistency in USED fasteners is why they call for new to be used. A new fastener will thread up the same every time, and the margin of improvement from burnishing of the shreds is only confined to the block, which in this case will not bring the fastener into this range of deformation. If you will notice, ARP calls for new nuts and specific lubricants to be used... Know why now? Take a bolt and run it into a tapped hole with some lube on it, go all Yhe way in. Then remove it, clean both and relubd and repeat. Each time that fastener will go in easier and easier. This is what they are trying to counteract. Www.boltscience.com is a good site to go to and learn more about fasteners, washers, and bolted joint design. Reading the case studies there is fascinating, even counterintuitive in some cases. Their little talk about roadwheels and lugnuts is especially enlightening!

Attachment of a ball valve on the inlet, and a high resolution gauge on the end of the return line will allow you to hold air in the system and check for slow bleed down. Minuscule leaks can be found using either "Snoop" leak detector fluid, or a spray bottle of water with dish soap dissolved in it. Leaving it overnight and not seeing any pressure drop would give me absolute confidence in the fuel system integrity. This sam method is used to test hydrocarbon transport containment piping before putting it into service.

Generally, once booted, in short order the confiscation flatbed shows up with the wheel set... That's how I know towing one that is booted is easy!

I think they all one from the same FRP vendor. I guess my original from Nissan Japan would make a good set of molds...

No chip guard paint on the rockers, eh? Oops! Live and learn. I always bring duct tape to the paint shop and say "match this"... Limits my xolors, but photographs from a distance never show anything amiss!

Pull the hood and radiator, undo the bolts to the trans and engine mounts... You can pull the fan off if you really want to, but disconnect the engine slide it forward, up, and out. In an S30 you can do that with the clutch assembly on the engine and clear everything. You just need a jack or stand under the tranny to keep it from dropping. Putting it back in I would say is easier if you THEN drop the tranny and remount it once the engine is on the mounts.

When you think nothing of calling the special number at the port to have another container delivered to contain the expanding hoarde of parts/donors for those projects down the road... Or of having a nice chat with the special dedicated lady (Faviola) at the container sales department when she calls to ask about your last trip and how things are going, and by the by, do you need another container yet?

@ Clarkspeed: Better re-read my post, I made no reference at all to times at Road Atlanta. I do stand by my 'childs play' reference in the context it was quoted. Fewer people wear The Red Cap than have climbed Everest. Every year Everest gets easier, every year getting a Red Cap gets harder.

Cheap stamped waterpump impellers have been known to rot to nuns of nothingness in less than 6 months once the antifreeze goes acidic, or in straight water. I never run a water pump in ANY Z-car that I didn't install myself after purchase.