Tony D

We can only comment as we are told things. If it was complexity, then this way; if it's something else, then the answer is something else. We ran an Electromotive TECII on our Bonneville Car at 8500 rpms with the distributor driven CAS they provided. They warned us it 'may not be as accurate' over 9000 rpms. So, don't EVEN get into the 'distributor slop' argument with this cowboy! :^) That one ain't flyin', more internet parrot talk on absolutist theory, very short on real-world application facts. There is no investment here, BTW. It's all gone. An investment infers 'payback'---let me tell you right now, there is no payback, that time is gone forever and you will never get it back. Which is why I said having a plan from the beninning with clear concrete goals and simply working toward it single mindedly will reap far more benefit than going over the same ground several times. hell, I've got projects that are now 20 years in the making to find al lthe right parts. I'm content to drive it 'as is' till I get the components together. No disgrace in that, IMO. If it's driving and workable, then leave it till you can do it right, once and for all, and be done with it long term. These engines when set up correctly, and sorted in the initial stages of 'commissioning' will turn into dead-reliable-as-new 'appliance vehicles' with outstanding performance. If there is a payback to be had, this is it. But it's not related to the time you put in, I figure that's gone no matter what. You can put in all the time you want, and have the greatest appliance car in the world reliable and all... but one drunk, a slippery curve overcooked on a rainy day... and poof! It's all for naught. All you will get is the 'now' of doing it. That is about the only payback to expect. If you enjoy the work, then the jouirney is more important than the destination. The destination takes care of itself, if you plan the journey well.

A non-linear throttle cam will tame a large TB's tip-in response. The only reall application for such a large body is on someone racing with a LOT of flow, who wants to minimize pressure losses. But even then, take a look at what size TB the Electramotive Turbo Engine used, and you will start to think (like I do) "If they didn't need that big a body, why do I need one that big?" Looks impressive as hell under the hood, though... I put a non-linear cam to actuate my Mikuinis because my wife said it had 'an on-off throttle' and she absolutely hated driving it. For that reason, the car was mine, exclusively... maybe that is what is on Big Phils mind...

Why 1680CC? What kind of HP do you expect to be producing?

Uh, define 'clean look' When you don't use the SU's as an SU, you don't need the lines, a fuel rail between the two with fuel line coming in the back and out the front with a reg on it (or vice versa) is all the lines you need going to it. Wether you retain it or not in stock 'looking' configuration is up to you. I have seen plenty of 'sanitary' su setups. The hoses on a 72 is the same as the hoses on a 69. I don't know what you're getting at by that comment. TWM makes SU bodies that use Bosch Style Injectors but they cost a hell of a lot more than $124 each. Whatever. I'm sure when you make up you mind you will do something.

I've never seen an un-lugged cam, that would make another permutation, probably NLA...

. delete this post, d'oh!.

Well, now lets not make broad generalizations like that... There has to be someone who has a nice car that I can pick up for cheap after a tragedy like that... Darwinisim has to pay off for someone... LOL

Just one problem, corrosion anywhere in the system causes heat and burns up your fusebox and takes the stalk switch out as well. They switch ground and do not use relays... and because they fuse the power side and switch the ground dirt along the path really makes a mess of the early fuseboxes, and the switch stalks on the lates. Likely the fuse was falling apart (as they seem to want to do these days) and jiggling it reconnected the overworked element. My advice: replace the fuses on the lights every two or three years at the outside, and you will never have to worry about driving someplace to fix your lights because an overworked fuse element got hot and 'sagged' out of the melted solder at the endcap...

what about cleaning the connectors on the injectors and EFI system? This problem is classic corrosion on the plugs symptoms. If someone searched, it would be revealed as such.

Got to agree, MS-n-Se allows full timing curve programability in a 3d map according to MAP and RPM. There is a soft and hard rev limiter in the same program, first retarding the timing, then cutting fuel. The datalogging is the same with the correct O2 sensor. Matter of fact, people I know have hooked up their MS boxes and used them as a datalogger to build a spreadsheet for some troubleshooting. You can datalog AFR, TPS, RPM, MAP right out of the box. You probably need to do a bit more research if you missed these facts already. I don't know about megajolt, but if you have one, and can set it up and use it I'm darned sure you can run the simple MS-n-Se software and set it up as well.

Some of the loudmouthed teenagers who know it all at another ZCAR site have found out firsthand the perils of the not-so-anonymous internet really is when some big bearded hairy guy rings them up (and their caller ID shows a local number within 10 minutes drive...)or knocks on their door for a friendly social visit. They aren't so loudmouthed after that... "Uh, your number, that's ahhhh Rome, right?" Yep, you live in Marietta, right? "Yeeees, uh why?" That's about 10 minutes or something now that the traffic is cleared, right? "Maybe 45...uh...why?" Oh, just idle thought, I'm not doing anything this evening, maybe we can get together and talk about those comments you made about my wife and child... I like how it really took off during the memorial day weekend. Some people should...maybe...get out a bit more if this was their obsession over Memorial Day Weekend! LOL I'm more of a personal visit with a bat kinda guy. It would have been 'road trip' time for me on Memorial Day Weekend.

Your only recourse is hooking resistors in series or parallel to restore the resistance drift caused by the harness or connectors. If you open the gauges you can do it there on the input circuitry.

Oh, one of the mini-dewars. Praxair in Santa Ana is where you get the mice-feed CO2 as well. I guess LN2 would have worked. When I think dewar, I think of the ones you could use to make into a pig roaster. We used those for shrinking liners into cylinders for the big Cooper GMVs (2 foot bore, 3 foot stroke, some of the compressor liners were even bigger!) Making a cooling jacket for the liner shrinkage was the most economical way, an open cylinder of LN2 that big for immersing a liner would not only displace the O2 and kill everybody in the shop... It'd make it damned cold as well!

How do you pass on a two lane road is the same in an LHD or RHD car. First, don't get so close behind the guy you can't see around him. Then signal, floor it, get past him and return to your lane of travel. I own 4 LHD cars, and have never had an issue passing on a two lane. Matter of fact, towing an 800# TRAILER with my wife and son in the Fairlady Z 2/2 I didn't have problems passing. Especially below 65, as with the 3.90 I would be right alongside them smiling right at the drivers face as he freaked out at where I had my wheel, and shift...accelerating away strongly in third... No problem. "If you can conceive it, you can achieve it!" as the saying goes... Apparently that was the rest of what they had in the trailer on that trip. I unloaded the doors from the back of the pickup during that load I believe.

Looks like a crosspost to me! And BRAAP, you missed it! Baaad Moderator, Baaaad Moderator!

I missed it originally, and my 'example' car is 8000 miles away right now. The haynes manual is helpful, but you really need the ZX FSM, and reading the wire map will tell you EXACTLY where each wire in each connector will go. They call out the pins by number (say 204) and then you look it up on the wiring chart on the back, and you will see in a matrix 204 starts here, goes there. By following that you can find the wires in the chassis, and on the diagram. You can flip between wiring diagram and that matrix and follow any wire throughout the whole chassis end-to-end. That's the easiest way I found to do it if you dont' already know the answers.

Well then, what can you do with that? It does tell you that the injectors are triggered each third spark event. That means the car has to be cranking to get the injectors 'clicking'... that also means that you have spark events occurring, and with the injectors out of the rail, nice finely atomized fuel spraying everywhere. If you truly believe they are not 'clicking' then disregard the following: Keep a BIG fire extinguisher handy. Crank the engine over and see if they blow fuel. It's that simple. If you have no ignition events, then you won't get fuel. So despite being 100% sure it's fuel, you probably overlooked that part that without a functioning distributor AND functional coil with a field collapsing and producing a spark, you will not get fuel. Just a thought from someone who's read that EFI Bible. Good Luck. Don't forget your Nomex!

Why is casting involved in throttle body conversions? If you got SU's on the car allready...well: Patton Machine has had SU drop-in GM TBI Conversion kits available for over two years now. I sent 52# of Datsun SU's off to him then and there is a set of his adapters running on a member's car in France at this very moment! The Patton Adapters are very nice, and with a little work on the Suction Domes, nobody knows you modified anything! For $124 per carb, last the website was updated: http://www.pattonmachine.com/Pricing.htm#Conversion_components_to_build_your_own_kit_ Because they use GM TBI injectors, the system is considerably lower pressure, so the stock fuel lines can be used, along with EFI rated fuel line for added security, making hookup a snap! No fuel rail needed, about a billion donor vehicles with a whole RANGE of injector sizes (get some for a 454SS Pickup and bet you have more than enough fuel for ANYTHING a Datsun will ever need!) and they are relatively cheap new at most auto parts stores.

I have seen people (as others have mentioned) machine the thick spacers like that out of single thicknees material. Some shims laser or water jet cut out of 1/8" steel could be percision ground on a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck pretty nicely... And we got a guy with a Water Jet machine on the board... Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... This gives me an idea...

You don't have to get a nipple welded to your pipe! Have the guy take a piece of 1/8 thick sheet or a block of 1/4" aluminum and simply weld it 'all round' to the underside of the IC return pipe (this way you get cool air). When it comes time to plumb it in, you simply drill and tap a hole. The 1/4" thick aluminum is more than thick enough for threads, and you can use any standard threaded barb to install whatever size bypass like you like! On steel J-Pipes I have successfully welded to them a piece of 1/8 X 1/2" strap steel and threaded it. Though a 1/4X 1/2" strap chunk 3" long ended up supplanting it once I found out how easy it was to tap into and take pressure off for this and that (like for pressure probes to check pressure at turbo outlet, I/C outlet and inlet, just before the TB, and to run RTD's in the same places as well. it's an easy way to make a penetration to the piping without putting a permanent nipple in there, just a piece of flat stock. If you have steel piping, then all you need for materials is at home depot or lowes! Strap steel rack, here you come! You can simply plug any hole you don't need, put a piece on there 3 or 4" long, and you got plenty of area for several hoses to come off. Slightly wider and you can use the same technique to mount additional injectors, but we don't need to go there, do we? Muahahahaha!

no it flows something like 21gpm constant. The LD pump is rated at 30 some at peak torque rpm of like 2400 engine speed (differnt pump speed)... The pump will increase flow with increased speed. I really need to make up a pump dyno and take some readings on the pump to make a pump curve. That would solve the pump issue once and for all. The Davies Craig Water Pumps are larger than the MSA, and work on variable speed as well. They perform well on some pretty strenuous applications, but they are not cheap.

Oh, that's the status... PM me, I have something from JeffP in my dually we can both use.

After 250,000 miles. That's an unfair characterization of the 280ZXT CAS. When the EDIS unit is 30 years old, we'll see how they are holding up. Guys change the ED12-80 to GMHEI modules all the time due to cost, but it's not like the E12-80 is a 'failure prone' item, it did last what...25, close to 30 years? I am using a Performance GMHEI on my MS-n-Se and it shoots 4" blue-white sparks no problem. Don't need an EDIS for that! A whole $40 new. No trigger wheel hassles, no complexity. SIMPLE. They would last another what? 25 years. Pretty good payback IMO. The symptoms of the failure make it pretty clear to diagnose with the Freez-It.

I was present at the Australian Muscle Car Masters Event at Eastern Creek this past year for the Kiwi-Oz shootout. During that time, no doubt some of the Kiwi rubbed off on me (or was that a Kiwi Rubbing off on me?) Like Lanolin or Wool. It's persistent. Once it gets on you, it won't get off... And yes, I DO travel with an inflatable sheep for entertainment purposes. I wonder what the TSA guys think when they see the world-worn sheep in there. I crave a pin camera to record housekeeping when the half-inflated night buddy is left half under the covers on the hotel bed. Sometimes its in a chair with the bed made up. Sometimes it's on the pillows. Sometimes (once) it was reinflated and put on a pillow on a chair in the room. I can only wonder the looks on the faces of the maids... I have not got so disgusting so as to put soft-soap near the orifice...yet...

Welcome to 'safety in non-accelerated body parts'... Accident surveys show that closeness/proximity to bodily parts to a soft surface will lessen the impact during a collision. Volvo for years showed rolled up cardboard in their door panels so when someone's knee or elbow hit, it crushed the tube and lessened the blow. This is why the panels now uselessly bulge toward and irritatingly rub every bodily part on you...EVEN in a Lincoln Town Car! I am amazed that my 240 can have me flopping around like I do, free and unrestrained, but I get into todays cars that are BIGGER, yet SMALLER inside at the same time. Maddening. not necesarily related to heqad room, but generally room in the interior in general. Sound deadening and sunroofs cut out the other room, damnit!